Technical Trouble tensioning 1.6 cambelt

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Technical Trouble tensioning 1.6 cambelt

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Oct 26, 2006
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Tauranga
:cry:
I am replacing the timing belt on a 1.6 and have struck a problem. The tensioner seems to need a heap of pressure on it to move the tension indicator around.

So much so that I have actually damaged the tensioning tool in the kit that I bought (thought it was going to be easy with the right tools). I think the tensioner kit is possibly sub-standard and the weld looks poor which may mean that problem is not the fault of the tensioner.

However when I tried carefully putting pressure on the pully with a pry bar I still can't get the little indicator to move.

I can weld up the tool for another try tomorrow but thought I would ask in case I am doing something stupidly wrong.

The tensioner bolt is suitably loose, and the tensioner looks to be O.K, its a new one and I can push the little indicator around by hand by pushing on the indicator itself.

Anyone have any ideas or words of support??

(Oh and technically this is on a Multipla but the Bravo thread is busier and the engine is the same).
 
Also....

I am very keen for any alternative ideas on how to tension the belt without using the tensioner tool... just in case I can't weld it up satisfactorily.

Been thinking about this some more and I suspect I may just have had a crook tensioner tool and need to apply more force. Its tricky though having not done one before and not wanting to break anything.
 
Re: Also....

Is this a new tensioner?

If so then did you clean the mounting surfaces?

I'll admit to have only ever done TWO belt and tensioner replacements of the later type. i.e. the ones that are toothed and with the little pointer. I've done numerous older style 127, Uno, Tipo, Tempra, Strada etc. ones.

What you are finding is what I found. The actually tensioner adjustment is much more of a sliding push than a rotation and if you do not get the angles right then it is quite difficult.

Check the tensioner to block faces are clean. Also note carefully how the tentioning process works with the tensioner backing plate slideing along the fixed pin groove.

If you are still struggling then try this little trick.

Using your tensioner tool as a tension holding / assist tool use one of your fingers to gently lift the pointer needle to the correct alignment position. This is quite easy to do. At the same time though you will need to also adjust/move the tensioner tool to take up the slack. As you do this the tensioner backing plate will slide as required.

Doing this is a little fiddly but does work perfectly OK. The only added advice I would give is that you will probably need to do the above two or three times with several engine roations between adjustments to ensure the everything is correctly settled and the belt tension is correct.
 
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Re: Also....

Thanks for this S130, those are some great ideas. I will give it a go today (day is just starting here) and let you know how I get on. Much appreciated!
 
Re: Also....

You were spot on s130!

I took inspiration from something else I read too, and instead of using my finger I used a loop of very heavy fishing line around a makeshift handle to hold the pointer. (In the other post they used the nylon to pull the tensioner but I found this worked better)

This made it super easy as I just had to pull the line to move the pointer, take up the tension with the tensioning tool, drop the line and tighten the nut.

Very easy and straight forward after a couple of dry runs to determine the approximate correct tension to put on.

I am also very pleased my weld job held up on the tensioning tool. I didn't get very good penetration but they held none the less.

I also cleaned the surfaces as you suggested and put a very thin smear of oil on the moving surface with my finger which I suspect helped.

Many thanks, you were a BIG help!
 
One more thing!

There are probably a couple of cambelt "how to's" on here, just wondering if I should ask the mods to add a note about this. I will have a look some time when I have a moment as perhaps I could just post a reply to the guide.
 
Re: Also....

If the plastic belt is still easy to access and take off then another two little tweeks you can do are.

1) a one inch / 2.5cm inspection hole drilled in the cover exactly over the long front down path of the belt. (place hole near top below camshaft for easy visual access) You can buy simple soft rubber blanking plugs or you can use tank/gaffer tap to cover the whole. This hole allows you to easily check the belt for wear or damage when you do and annual service. To do this when you have the spark plugs out just jack up the front right wheel just off the ground. Select 3rd or 4th gear and trun wheel clockwise to rotate engine. Watch cambelt go by.

2) A similar hole directly over the tensioner tension pointer. To view this one will probably require a mirror and torch.
 
Now thats some very clever thinking!
Thanks again, this could be a great idea for the Marea and Punto as well especially given the Mrs does some huge km's in hers. You have been a huge help!
 
Thanks.

I see I wrote "plastic belt" instead of "plastic belt cover". (same as cam belt cover).

I'm sure you understood but I had to correct for sake of clarity.

As you almost certainly know one should NEVER EVER drill, cut, modify a cam belt cover whilst it is in place. It should be removed otherwise damage could be done to the cambelt/running gear behind the belt cover.

Again I have to post this obvious advice as sometimes some people (not you) do not think before they jump. :)
 
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