Technical  TIMING BELT QUERY

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Technical  TIMING BELT QUERY

angie polkey

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Does anyone know how critical the 100,000 mile marker is for replacing the timing belt on Fiat models that require this?
We've got a Fiat Qubo diesel and have done over 101, 000 miles and can't get the belt replaced for at least 2 weeks...
 
There will be a mileage and age spec for changing the belt. All belts can go over, the gamble is by how much - all down to pure luck on the belt and the life it's had.

The rollers and tensioners are just ctitical as the belt. They can go too with miles.
 
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Does anyone know how critical the 100,000 mile marker is for replacing the timing belt on Fiat models that require this?
We've got a Fiat Qubo diesel and have done over 101, 000 miles and can't get the belt replaced for at least 2 weeks...

Diesel ?
What engine size?
What year car?
 
Does anyone know how critical the 100,000 mile marker is for replacing the timing belt on Fiat models that require this?
We've got a Fiat Qubo diesel and have done over 101, 000 miles and can't get the belt replaced for at least 2 weeks...
Probably need more details, age engine size etc.
Many use the 1.3 multijet diesel which is chain driven not a cam belt, so generally as they wear you can here noise from that area.
Unlike cam belts which can fail without warning and cost lots to repair.
If Fiat or any manufacturer gives a mileage marker it is usually a guide only , with lots of caveats regarding driving environments etc. Also if regularly serviced by dealers;)
Often it is not just mileage but time affected.
 
@ angie polkey

If it 's a Diesel engine you must replace the timing chain at every 130.000 km. This is written in your owner book (if you have one). Rollers and tensioners and water pump must be replaces as well depending what environment was driven the car. If the car is driven in town mainly those must be replaced sooner then the owner's book advise you.

Hope this information was useful for you.
 
Does anyone know how critical the 100,000 mile marker is for replacing the timing belt on Fiat models that require this?
We've got a Fiat Qubo diesel and have done over 101, 000 miles and can't get the belt replaced for at least 2 weeks...
In my knowledge Fiat Qubo Diesel doesn't have a timing belt but it has a timing chain. According to Owner's manual this must be changed at 120.000 km (or 75.000 miles ). After 120.000 km or even sooner the chain starts to have a rattling annoying noise when is worn.

The timing belt must be replaced at every 60.000 km (37.500 miles) The timing belt is not so forgiving because it doesn't make sounds is just silently snapping and with that all the valves of the engine and major costs for repairing.
 
In my knowledge Fiat Qubo Diesel doesn't have a timing belt but it has a timing chain. According to Owner's manual this must be changed at 120.000 km (or 75.000 miles ). After 120.000 km or even sooner the chain starts to have a rattling annoying noise when is worn.

The timing belt must be replaced at every 60.000 km (37.500 miles) The timing belt is not so forgiving because it doesn't make sounds is just silently snapping and with that all the valves of the engine and major costs for repairing.
Hello dani, i'm following you for the 1.3 mtjet oil consumption i have the same issue and i wanted to ask just replacing the rings solved the problem?
 
Hello dani, i'm following you for the 1.3 mtjet oil consumption i have the same issue and i wanted to ask just replacing the rings solved the problem?
If pistons and bores are in fair condition, then a good set of the correct size piston rings, measured for ring gap in the bores before fitting in clean piston ring grooves and positioned equal distance away from each other around the piston (as in not all the gaps lined up;)) fitted into cylinder bores that have been lightly honed, cleaned and well oiled before fitting using a ring compressor so no broken piston rings on fitting, should be fine.
The reason for honing is it allows the new rings to quickly bed into the bore and make a good seal.
I have done it on many older vehicles saving some money compared with a rebore and new pistons. I also always recut the valves/seats and ground them in giving a good seal for maximum compression.:)
Hone tool that fits on slow drill and piston ring compressor tool below.
 

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If pistons and bores are in fair condition, then a good set of the correct size piston rings, measured for ring gap in the bores before fitting in clean piston ring grooves and positioned equal distance away from each other around the piston (as in not all the gaps lined up;)) fitted into cylinder bores that have been lightly honed, cleaned and well oiled before fitting using a ring compressor so no broken piston rings on fitting, should be fine.
The reason for honing is it allows the new rings to quickly bed into the bore and make a good seal.
I have done it on many older vehicles saving some money compared with a rebore and new pistons. I also always recut the valves/seats and ground them in giving a good seal for maximum compression.:)
Hone tool that fits on slow drill and piston ring compressor tool below.
Thanks on my fiat 1.3 199B4000 ENGINE CODE they use 69.60 mm pistons it burn 1l of oil every 1000km should i just but the std rings and valves ?
 
Thanks on my fiat 1.3 199B4000 ENGINE CODE they use 69.60 mm pistons it burn 1l of oil every 1000km should i just but the std rings and valves ?
If you suspect oil consumption down to piston/bore seal and no extra wear in bore than standard, then use new standard piston rings, correctly gaped and positioned etc. and bore lightly honed to aid bedding in as I mentioned earlier and well oiled before assembly.
However if the pistons are worn so the rings flop around in the grooves or if there is a lot of slack/extra movement when you push the piston side to side in the bore then whilst new rings may make a slight difference but it will not be a 100% cure.:(
 
If you suspect oil consumption down to piston/bore seal and no extra wear in bore than standard, then use new standard piston rings, correctly gaped and positioned etc. and bore lightly honed to aid bedding in as I mentioned earlier and well oiled before assembly.
However if the pistons are worn so the rings flop around in the grooves or if there is a lot of slack/extra movement when you push the piston side to side in the bore then whilst new rings may make a slight difference but it will not be a 100% cure.:(
Thanks men god bless you but here is why i think the pistons are good there is good accelerations max speed up to 180km plus for 1.3 liter engine who eat oil that is cool turbine ok engine sound like a clock but it eat oil like crazy i deleted the dpf and egr system now i will do the rings and all that stuf
 
Thanks men god bless you but here is why i think the pistons are good there is good accelerations max speed up to 180km plus for 1.3 liter engine who eat oil that is cool turbine ok engine sound like a clock but it eat oil like crazy i deleted the dpf and egr system now i will do the rings and all that stuf
When you undo the oil filler do you get a lot of "drumming noise", diesels do that anyway , but if piston wear they will; be worse noise.
Check engine breather OK and also check oil isn't from turbo bearings.:)
 
When you undo the oil filler do you get a lot of "drumming noise", diesels do that anyway , but if piston wear they will; be worse noise.
Check engine breather OK and also check oil isn't from turbo bearings.:)
Sorry for the late reply but yes i checked the turbo and it's fine looks good no leaking next time i will check the pcv valve and i need to open the engine and check the pistons rings deleted dpf and egr by the way still the same consumption but i cheked if i'm lucky like in romania they change only the rings
 
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