Seicento The New Uno Turbo 1.4 Seicento :D

[Pep0]

O ring on coil box can throw out lots of oil if the breather is blocked but the cam cover is more likely.

 

[sei16v]

super post this,great looking house stuff and the cars are great that yellow thing is in a shocking state.Red one is great.looking forward to more on this.cheers dude, Stu

Cheers dude!! Oh and the pics of the yellow one make it look a lot better than it is, just be glad you don't live next door to me and have to see it every day!.. I have got a car cover for it, but I cant make up my mind if that looks worse as its silver and makes it look like a huge foil covered jacket potato..

O ring on coil box can throw out lots of oil if the breather is blocked but the cam cover is more likely.

Cheers for the info... I think the cam cover may be the problem, I had a look about 15 mins ago and the gasket and most of the block is wet... Going to see if I can replace it tomorrow, jet wash the engine clean and then inspect for leaks again... Will also check this O ring you mention while im at it Thanks

Leaky gasket....?

While I've been at home bored (no work on at the min)... I thought I would tint the windows of the car... I keeping everything standard, but the odd day here and there il be carrying my tools so I thought what the hell....

The rears are done in 15% dark smoke, and then the fronts will be in the ultra light tint as they weren't factory tinted by the looks of things. (the front film has just been ordered)....

Rear 1/4s....

And then the rear window.... (note the coffee)

Starting to shrink the film....

A few, well a lot of swear words later the rear was tinted... Oh and I never got to drink my coffee as you can see by the massive patch of it on the carpet haha

Dot matrix on the back is a PITA, however it should all settle in a week or two...

 

[ROBTECH]

trying to do window tints ,,,knightmare i was tried to do a pug 205 years ago not knowing what i was doing...the whole pack of max power tints ended in the bin and there was so much swearing it was like a tourettes convention...a job for the pros

 

[sei16v]

trying to do window tints ,,,knightmare i was tried to do a pug 205 years ago not knowing what i was doing...the whole pack of max power tints ended in the bin and there was so much swearing it was like a tourettes convention...a job for the pros

haha I know exactly what your on about.... put it this way I was red faced by the end of yesterday and currently have a bin full of screwed up window tint lol, I was lucky to get a decent finish on the last attempt... Its the shrink needed on the curve windows that's annoying... I tend to get a really good finish and then literally on the last bit il have a burn through and have to start a fresh lol...

 

[sei16v]

Hmm more goodies

Coilover kit

MS2 v3

Ridiculous custom charge.... Don't mind the VAT and duty... But the handling fee?? I had to go and collect the bloody thing!!

 

[sei16v]

Well.... an update, and one that contains an angle grinder (my tool of choice)...

My insurance paperwork came yesterday, so was filled out and ready to go back

Then I got to work with the coilovers... and boy what a hassle that has been!! It all started when trying to remove the rear dampers, only to find that the bolt was seized to the damper itself... A hour or so with a breaker bar managed to free the bolt, and break the welded on nut, yet it still wouldn't come out... It was literally rust-welded solid to the inner metal bit of the old damper... It meant only one thing... Time for the grinder Mwahhaahhaaa

I ended up cutting out the rear damper, and then having to weld the arm up just to make sure it was all solid again... A washer 'n' big slug of weld later it was strong again (although when I strip the yellow sei, il be swapping the arm over to replace this one)

I then got to installing the new suspension at the rear.... After comparing the 'lowering' springs to the standards I had a 'fail moment'

The fail moment.... (I couldn't help it the grinder was looking at me)...

Now kids (don't try this at home haha).... Basically I masked the springs up to guarantee the cut was in the exact same place two coils down, and used a 1mm cutting disk to cut it quick and keep the heat low... As far as I was concerned at this point, I had got the springs perfect... A quick coat of paint on the exposed end, and the bumpstops trimmed, it was time to fit...

With only two coils removed they wont 'fall out' or move on a full drop of the suspension (thus keeping the MOT guy happy)...

Then I realised just how low it sat... (don't get me wrong I love 'lows', just ones where I can f*rt in the car and know it wont cause the arches to scrub)...

I was going to remove the interior anyway, so thought now would be a good time haha....

To be honest it lifted the car a little, but after a trip around the corner to todgers we realised it needed another highly skilled modification carried out with the aid of a massive jack handle.... DIY arch rolling!!

As stupid as it looks, it has worked really well!! We started with a small, medium and large handle, with the handbrake off he pushed while I rolled the handles between the tyre and arch, forcing the lip upwards slightly... The car was only rubbing on one side (passenger) as the wheel seems to stick out a lot more than the drivers... Ive had a look at todgers sei and his is the same... must be a FIAT thing...

Anyhow... Much better stance (bar the front camber as this still needs to be set up & tracked)

The only thing I have done properly and by the book is polish my MS heat sink... Only due to being too scared to crack the soldering iron out to make it haha, as I still don't really understand it (trying to work out how to do the idle control, as depending on what type im using I need to make the connections differently :S )

 

[sei16v]

oh just need to add.... I DIDNT paint the tyres before anyone asks... lol

 

[randomizered]

If your scared I'll do the MS for you....I;ve only a few days at work then I'm unemployed

Looking nice and low

 

[gadge]

Looking awesome! I quite like the red tyre paint

Just a quick theory on the supposedly "lowered" springs, I maybe well wrong but I have a weird sneaky feeling that even though they are the same length as the standard ones, once fitted to the car they would actually still lower the car because if you compare the two side by side you'll see that the red one is tightly wound at one end and the other one isn't. I think it's this part of the spring that makes the car go lower hence why when you fitted your cut down versions it sat on the ground really low (not that this is a bad thing of course )......just to put your mind at ease so you don't think you bought a bogus product

 

[sei16v]

Looking awesome! I quite like the red tyre paint

Just a quick theory on the supposedly "lowered" springs, I maybe well wrong but I have a weird sneaky feeling that even though they are the same length as the standard ones, once fitted to the car they would actually still lower the car because if you compare the two side by side you'll see that the red one is tightly wound at one end and the other one isn't. I think it's this part of the spring that makes the car go lower hence why when you fitted your cut down versions it sat on the ground really low (not that this is a bad thing of course )......just to put your mind at ease so you don't think you bought a bogus product

Yea I think your correct, their a softer spring and in fairness I would normally have fitted to see how it looked, and then if I wasn't happy I could have professionally *cough* adjusted haha... Id just had a bad day and didn't think what I was doing haha, although I quite like the stance at the moment... Think in the future it may have some new springs on the rear tho!

If your scared I'll do the MS for you....I;ve only a few days at work then I'm unemployed

Looking nice and low

Oh there's an offer hard to refuse!! Although im away from 2nd sept-17th sept so I bet I wont get the opportunity to see you before you leave? I'm tempted in throwing you some monies and sorting it out with todger?

I was struggling trying to work out the ICV in the MS Extra manual, although now I think il be using a Vauxhall ICV/stepper which is a 2 wire PWM type, meaning I need to modify the board with an extra TIP122 (this was what I was getting confused with)...

The only other problem was the TPS, but again I've picked up a Vauxhall 3 pin so that should do the trick..

Just now trying to work out what options I need to use to run a trigger wheel and the ford edis set up (as im guessing that's the easiest way to run the spark side of things)...

To be honest I realised it was DIY, but I didn't think you had so many different wiring options when putting it together, I assumed the options were software based rather than hardware... Lots of research for me!!

 

[sei16v]

Right, thought id bite the bullet and have a go with soldering the MS board, and to be fair its not as bad as I thought it would be...

Thought id clear a space, pop some paper down and crack on...

I then put some of the resistors in place, passing them through the board and then folding the legs out at the back, meaning I didn't have to solder each resistor one by one, as id be there hours...

The front

The Rear

The Rear (after tidying up)

More resistors added...

The Rear Again..

And the board is now left like this.... (as I was running out of natural light)

Think most of the resistors are done now, tomorrow il crack on with the capacitors... I'm trying to get the board to the point where there are 'options'....

I was thinking to control my fan via MS, tacho (if it works with the sei) & also possibly adding launch control?

I will be integrating my wideband o2 sensor as apparently that will help when tuning/logging.

Are there any other MS mods that might be worthwhile to add?

 

[Hudson93]

Subscribed! Looks like an interesting build!

I used the same technique to roll my arches ended up with 3 inch bar for extra flair ahha

 

[sei16v]

Subscribed! Looks like an interesting build!

I used the same technique to roll my arches ended up with 3 inch bar for extra flair ahha

Haha cheers.... 3" bar is tempting! lol




Anyways as for the MS.... I'm plodding on, but think really I need to buy a stim kit to check its all working correctly... I don't suppose anyone may have one in exchange for some £££'s?

 

[jatkinson]

did you buy this off Cinq mad lad off here? Looks a clean car

 

[sei16v]

did you buy this off Cinq mad lad off here? Looks a clean car

Cheers, and yea I think its his old seicento...

Well my MS has come on a bit more... a little confused with a few bits, although not as much as I would have thought... I've also soldiered the top side of the components to make sure they are 100% correct (im a little ocd haha)

I started on the heatsink connections, making sure they were pasted to the board, and the mica insulation installed behind two of the components..

Also popped to maplins for my extra bits... realised they were a bunch of overpriced muppets (thanks to giving me the incorrect resistance resistors and another incorrect bit)... So back out I went and set up a trade account with RS components... Came back with everything I needed at a much cheaper cost!! Bonus...

Im at the point where im testing (although no stim kit to fully test yet)... so Il be removing the car battery later to check all the voltages on the MS are correct (fingers crossed)

The three yellow wires with the red heat shrink are yet to be connected, as they seem to be connected once this stage of testing has taken place....

Wish me luck

 

[Honeymonster]

A couple of things worth mentioning here. There is a reason why when repairing electronics we don't bend the legs or solder both sides. You'll find out why if you have to make any changes. Anything soldered in this fashion will be an absolute pig to remove sucker, gun, braid or otherwise.

Also I'd be very careful using a gas soldering iron on IC's you really need to keep a safe temperature.

On the bright side the old through hole stuff is quite tough and easy to work with so if you've got your placements right you should be good to go.

Everythings solder paste and oven or wave these days. You could reflow an ECU in the time it takes to bake some cookies.

The best thing about through hole construction is how easy it is to fix.

I'd like to build one of these for fun.

 

[sei16v]

A couple of things worth mentioning here. There is a reason why when repairing electronics we don't bend the legs or solder both sides. You'll find out why if you have to make any changes. Anything soldered in this fashion will be an absolute pig to remove sucker, gun, braid or otherwise.

Also I'd be very careful using a gas soldering iron on IC's you really need to keep a safe temperature.

On the bright side the old through hole stuff is quite tough and easy to work with so if you've got your placements right you should be good to go.

Everythings solder paste and oven or wave these days. You could reflow an ECU in the time it takes to bake some cookies.

The best thing about through hole construction is how easy it is to fix.

I'd like to build one of these for fun.

Haha, cheers for the info! I know what you mean about unsoldering though, but I just had a bad experience with a Vauxhall combo van that left me stranded in the middle of no-where due to bad solder joins on the EDU (apparently a common fault).... So didn't want to have the same thanks to myself haha... (so keep your fingers crossed for me that I don't need to remove anything)

As for the heat, ive been using the smaller soldering iron out the two... The gas IRODA PRO is 40-120W so I decided on the smaller of the two on a low heat...

Ive tested it so far and im getting the correct voltages & resistances on the board, so hopefully its all ok... I didn't think it would be any worse than using a maplins £5 special iron haha

 

[sei16v]

I've also decided to bin off the EDIS, as apparently my MS can directly control a FORD coilpack with a few modifications internal on the MS...

No idea as of yet how I need to wire it, so im off to do some research

 

[sei16v]

Right, can anyone clear this up for me, and advise if im on the right track...

If I DONT run edis.... do I...

Install a trigger wheel to the bottom pulley (as the UT has no missing tooth pulley)

Install a VR sensor and wire to MS like so... (guessing all that's needed for the 'pickup')

V3.0 board - VR Input for VR (magnetic) sensor
a) Solder a link between VRIN and TACHSELECT
b) Solder a wire between VrOUT and TSEL
c) With a small screwdriver, turn the pots, R52 and R56, about 12 turns anticlockwise (sometimes you may feel a "click" when the end position is reached, they can't be damaged by turning too far.) This sets them up for most VR sensors.

And then this is where I start to get confuzzled....

The 'ignition output'...

The ford coil Is a high current inductive - wasted spark coilpack (Each of the two high current inputs produces a spark in a pair of outputs. These are wired to cylinders that need to fire 360 crank degrees apart)

So to this point im alright, understanding that I want my MS to make 1&4 and 2&3 to fire 180 apart...

External wiring of the MS im fine with (as its easy if going by the picture)

The problem im having is how I wire the ms2v3 internally to fire the coilpack... I'm going down the MS-Extra route, and the info for it is here, however I don't understand it fully as the diagrams are a bit vague.
http://www.msextra.com/doc/general/sparkout-v30.html

I don't really understand how the 'first bip' is installed wire wise (as in what 's soldered where on the board) and it also says its distributor based :S.

I can understand the links in the second picture, as its a more 'spastic-friendly' diagram for me....

I also have the issue that I AM using R37 and R38 on my board (resistors so I can run low ohm injectors), so I need somewhere else to use as a heat sink for a pair of coildriver BIPS...

Can I case mount these (anodized case) at all or is it a bit of a bodge (I know they need to be mica insulated, however still need to release heat).

I think its been a long day researching, so probs obvious to anyone that's seen this stuff before...

ARRGGGHHH

 

[Honeymonster]

And this is where Mega Squirt gets messy. I've always found the documentation extremely confusing. Even though the system is highly adaptable and good value, making changes has always seemed like a full on electronics project to me. The advantage of the non open source type ECU's is nearly all adaptations can be made through software and changing a few external cables. Then of course you need to tuck this thing up somewhere away from any vibrations and moisture (as stupidly with a lot of big name aftermarkets). The car environment is harsh, a potted unit which you could dip in the sea and not damage would far more suit our expectations.

These things are a labour of love, hopefully some one who has loved one before can give you some help, or perhaps the MS forum.

If I had enough time to read that and pull out some hair, I'd be busy using it working on my own machine which is in desperate need of attention.

How much are these kits incidently? I'm assuming you made a good saving?

Anyhow, best of luck I'm sure you'll get your head round it after a bit more research. Success always tastes better when you work for it.