Technical Tempreture

[katanabandit1]

Hi guys hoping you guys can confirm something for me. Took the panda out for a bit of a spin today as usually she only does small runs so never really gets that warm. Anyway after bombing along the mway for an hour I noticed the temp guage was only at 1/4 and interior not toasty warm even though heater set to max. Anyway came off of motorway to have a drive through a bit of nice country side. The cooling fans kicked in and engine management light came on with temp guage showing zero on meter. Pulled in at garage to check fluids and all was fine so have it 30 mins and a cuppa before setting off back and limped her back home( although was running fine tbh) just in case. Temp went back up to 1/4 and stayed like that all way home (70 + management light staying on) Plugged her into multiscan and it said water temp sensor. So cleared code. Engine management light now turned off. Left her ticking over on drive temp went up to half, so went for another short drive. Temp went down to 1/4 again. So put interior fan on 4 and temp went down to just above zero. Turned it off and it went back up to 1/4. Interested to see what you guys think. I am thinking stuck open thermostat. Shouldn't the stat regulate flow to keep the temp around half not 1/4? If so is it hard job to do?

 

[koalar]

almost certainly the rubber seal in the thermostat has perished

start the car from cold. The top Hose should stay cold for a few minutes. If it warms up straight away you will need s new thermostat

 

[koalar]

common problem with thermostate | FIAT Panda (Mk3)

when the weather get cold we get loads of cooling issues heaters only blowing warm P0115 error radiator fans coming on fast. gauge dropping down occationly. gauge only going up 1/4 way 90% are down to a missing rubber gasket inside the thermostat. Because the thermostat is opening and...

www.fiatforum.com

this explains the fans an engine light

 

[jrkitching]

As Koalar says, these are the classic symptoms of thermostat failure; this is an extremely common issue. It needs sorting out promptly or the engine will run excessively rich, it'll soot up and fuel economy will be abysmal. Fortunately the job is a straightforward one, and a new thermostat (it comes complete with its housing) is cheap as chips. I've done this job myself, and a quick search will bring up plenty of posts from others who've done likewise.

Basically you'll need to remove the battery and its tray for access, but you can just unbolt the ecu and swing it out of the way without disconnecting its cabling. Easiest way to remove the coolant is to syphon it out; that way, you won't risk breaking anything by undoing hoses - it's just one connection on the thermostat housing itself to take off. Work cleanly, and you can put the coolant back afterwards. A good rule of thumb, particularly with older cars, is to only dismantle what you have to.

You'll need a new gasket, which costs just pence, but is annoying if you only find out once the car's in bits. They're usually included with aftermarket 'stats but strangely not with OEM ones; it's optional (and often debated here) whether to also use a gasket sealing compound.

 

[katanabandit1]

As Koalar says, these are the classic symptoms of thermostat failure; this is an extremely common issue. It needs sorting out promptly or the engine will run excessively rich, it'll soot up and fuel economy will be abysmal. Fortunately the job is a straightforward one, and a new thermostat (it comes complete with its housing) is cheap as chips. I've done this job myself, and a quick search will bring up plenty of posts from others who've done likewise.

Basically you'll need to remove the battery and its tray for access, but you can just unbolt the ecu and swing it out of the way without disconnecting its cabling. Easiest way to remove the coolant is to syphon it out; that way, you won't risk breaking anything by undoing hoses - it's just one connection on the thermostat housing itself to take off. Work cleanly, and you can put the coolant back afterwards. A good rule of thumb, particularly with older cars, is to only dismantle what you have to.

You'll need a new gasket, which costs just pence, but is annoying if you only find out once the car's in bits. They're usually included with aftermarket 'stats but strangely not with OEM ones; it's optional (and often debated here) whether to also use a gasket sealing compound.

Cheers guys. I knew you guys would know for sure what's going on. Will get one tomorrow. Will it need a new stat housing too? Happy to drain the violent out and put new stuff in tbh. Not been flushed out in a couple of years.

 

[koalar]

Cheers guys. I knew you guys would know for sure what's going on. Will get one tomorrow. Will it need a new stat housing too? Happy to drain the violent out and put new stuff in tbh. Not been flushed out in a couple of years.

comes with the housing mine have always come with a gasket. Although very cheapest may not

two types depending on model year

if its the latter around 2009 or 100hp one I would order the ones with a metal spigot not plastic

change the coolant anyhow its more than likely acidic by now

there is a quick release on the bottom Hose. I just put a g-clamp over the two buttons and twist and pull. I have done dozens of times without any problems (cant do it hand alone) Others seem to have problems and resort to cutting the clamp and replace with a jubilee clip. You probably need some jubilees around the thermo housing unless they have already been replaced

I would advice you to measure them. There's nothing worse than standing in Wicks or the like trying to remember what size they are, been there done that

 

[katanabandit1]

Cheers guys. I knew you guys would know for sure what's going on. Will get one tomorrow. Will it need a new stat housing too? Happy to drain the violent out and put new stuff in tbh. Not been flushed out in a couple of years.

comes with the housing mine have always come with a gasket. Although very cheapest may not

two types depending on model year

if its the latter around 2009 or 100hp one I would order the ones with a metal spigot not plastic

change the coolant anyhow its more than likely acidic by now

there is a quick release on the bottom Hose. I just put a g-clamp over the two buttons and twist and pull. I have done dozens of times without any problems (cant do it hand alone) Others seem to have problems and resort to cutting the clamp and replace with a jubilee clip. You probably need some jubilees around the thermo housing unless they have already been replaced

I would advice you to measure them. There's nothing worse than standing in Wicks or the like trying to remember what size they are, been there done that

It's a 2004 1,2 dynamic. Has Aircon and I installed red leather seats from a fiat 500 and fitted heated seats to them. She just clocked up 116k. Lovely fun thing to drive and feels really special with the heated leather in. We have a Alfa gullietta sportivo cloverleaf which is great but to be honest I have way more fun in the panda as can drive it nearer its limits more of the time. And the seats are far more comfy.

 

[katanabandit1]

It's a 2004 1,2 dynamic. Has Aircon and I installed red leather seats from a fiat 500 and fitted heated seats to them. She just clocked up 116k. Lovely fun thing to drive and feels really special with the heated leather in. We have a Alfa gullietta sportivo cloverleaf which is great but to be honest I have way more fun in the panda as can drive it nearer its limits more of the time. And the seats are far more comfy.

 

[Myusername]

Loving the 500 seats, they look much more comfortable.

Are they just a straight swap?

 

[DaveMcT]

Faulty thermostat will give poor heating at speed but toasty when going slower. However low coolant level has the same effect but the engine wont run for long if its genuinely low on coolant.

 

[katanabandit1]

Swapped the thermostat today now running perfect with temp right in middle of the gauge, and gets up to temp a lot quicker than before.
The seats are more or less a straight swap. Got to change a foot on the back of the seat which involves drilling studs out then turning the bracket around and using bolts to replace the studs. Pretty easy though. And the rear seats brackets need to be swapped over but again easy job. And yes way way more comfy easpecially once the heated elements are installed like I put in. Just feels special.