Technical Suspension refresh

[Leroypanda]

Would be a waste of money to put all new springs and shocks all round on a 10 yr old Panda. parts only come to £350 ( genuine from shop4parts)

 

[Panda IIs]

Would be a waste of money to put all new springs and shocks all round on a 10 yr old Panda. parts only come to £350 ( genuine from shop4parts)

How many miles done? Shocks I could see the point in doing (at 10 years) but only for OEM or better. Steel springs are just that, steel springs - I just had an MOT advisory on corroded rear springs (VW not Fiat product) but I'm not going to rush to replace. I have had steel spring failures (fatigue) on a MERC but this was mileage related (200+k miles...). You might be better off spending the money replacing shocks and front wishbones (which will freshen up ball joints and bushes) on the Panda? Again go for OEM or better (Shop4Parts) I did front suspension wishbone on my Panda with ECP part that required replacing after 2 years, lesson learned...

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Maybe factor in ten years of corroded nuts and bolts, then consider a ‘if it ain’t broke…’ approach.
Springs won’t ‘wear out’ so prob no point there (unless it’s been battered off-road for 10 years). Rubber bushes will perish and harden so something to be gained there - but a heck of a lot of faff (eg rear suspension pivots). But the key ones to fail are built into the rear shocks and the front wishbones.
Shocks - maybe yes… but now many miles done? Are they originals still?
To add more comfort, consider refurbishing the driving seat as that’s likely worn more than suspension will, given how the foam degrades and the wire springs sag

 

[Leroypanda]

im on 37k.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

In that case, don't bother! Mine, at 5 years old and 48k miles is fine.

That tiny level of mileage over 10 years can lead to other issues (cars like to be used), but the suspension is hardly going to have noticed.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Instead., I'd spend about the same money on four quality new tyres (assuming they are original? Mine went to 35000 miles before first change).

 

[Panda IIs]

im on 37k.

Yep; I'd be saving the money too. Mine's a 63 plate on 84k miles. Just treat it to proper oil and filters (especially if TA). Agree re tyres too, if still originals they could perhaps use a refresh regardless of tread depth there's likely cracks developing at the bottom of the tread pattern. Tyres have year (and month or week?) of manufacture moulded into tyre wall;

Ref internet search(!)

Just noted you say 1200 engine; so make sure CAM BELT has been done - treat this as urgent if still original!

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Tyres have year (and month or week?) of manufacture moulded into tyre wall;

First two digits are the week and second are the year.

 

[Panda IIs]

First two digits are the year, eg 19 for 2019, and second are the week, eg 25 for a week in August.

See my edit re Cam Belt OP says 1200 engine....

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

See my edit re Cam Belt OP says 1200 engine....

Definitely - cam belt every six years, regardless of miles...

That handbook also says if low mileage and used mostly around town, it's recommended to change every 4 years

 

[WitleyPanda]

Would be a waste of money to put all new springs and shocks all round on a 10 yr old Panda. parts only come to £350 ( genuine from shop4parts)

Springs are digital, work or broken. 2012 4x4 broke both springs last year, assume pot holes, but else would regard as good for life of vehicle. Shock rubbers seem to suffer, more than the shocks, but don't supply as a replacement part

 

[The Panda Nut]

Our 2011 Panda 1.2 is definitely in need of new springs all round now di=ue to rust, so my guess would be its possibly getting near to the point where change would be beneficial, but chewck adn inspect and dont just throw money at it without good cause.

 

[tommo1]

I discovered my front n/s damper was covered in its own oil, leaking all over the place. This was discovered when I was checking under the wheel arches a month before the MoT, mostly brake lines etc. I'd had no symptoms at all. 2016 Panda with 96k miles on it though.

As mentioned above, seized / corroded nuts was the main issue, mainly the top nuts and on the 2012+ Panda you have to strip out a lot of trim including removing the wiper arms to gain access. The Allen key slots in the damper tops were corroded away, I had to cut off one of the nuts. That aside, it wasn't too difficult but you'll need to compress the springs to get the struts disassembled. At 37k miles, I really wouldn't bother.

 

[WitleyPanda]

I discovered my front n/s damper was covered in its own oil, leaking all over the place. This was discovered when I was checking under the wheel arches a month before the MoT, mostly brake lines etc. I'd had no symptoms at all. 2016 Panda with 96k miles on it though.

As mentioned above, seized / corroded nuts was the main issue, mainly the top nuts and on the 2012+ Panda you have to strip out a lot of trim including removing the wiper arms to gain access. The Allen key slots in the damper tops were corroded away, I had to cut off one of the nuts. That aside, it wasn't too difficult but you'll need to compress the springs to get the struts disassembled. At 37k miles, I really wouldn't bother.

It worth waxing or lanolin or even petroleum jelly the tops of the struts, thread and nuts as a routine annual exercise ! Once the tops gone it a real pain of a job.

 

[tommo1]

It worth waxing or lanolin or even petroleum jelly the tops of the struts, thread and nuts as a routine annual exercise ! Once the tops gone it a real pain of a job.

As it happens, I smeared copper grease into the Allen heads of the top of the struts. But I hope to not have to take them off again, ever.

I changed the front drop links at the same time, the old ones were just worn. They gave me a false 'tight' if you know what I mean. 2 days after doing the job, there was a clonk at the front. The front ARB to drop link ball joints were somehow not tight now. Had to tighten them a second time. Fortunately you can do this with a 17mm and the wheel turned.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

The drop links need to be tightened up with no load or pull on them to avoid that ‘false tight’. That means placing a second jack under the dangling wheel hub and lifting it just enough so the links are not being pulled down by the springs or pushed up by the jack (or the road wheels if on the ground later). The same is true for wheel nuts - a good tyre centre will part-lower the car so the wheels are in that same ‘equilibrium’ state before torquing the wheel nuts.

 

[jrkitching]

The drop links need to be tightened up with no load or pull on them to avoid that ‘false tight’. That means placing a second jack...

That.

I fitted a new pair to the Panda only yesterday, so it's quite fresh in my mind.

They're the first thing to check if you notice any clunking sounds when running over an uneven surface.

Jacking up the car puts the drop links into quite a bit of tension; you need to relieve that tension both to test them for excessive wear, and when fitting replacements.

Interestingly mine were rock solid with the front wheels off the ground, but the play was obvious once the tension was relieved. The easiest (and safest) way to check is to grasp them firmly with both hands with the weight of the car on the wheels and give them a good shake; if they're excessively worn, you'll both feel it and hear it. Turn the steering to full lock on the appropriate side for best access.

Expect to have to use destructive methods to remove the old ones; I just sliced through the nuts with a metal cutting disc in an angle grinder, quick and easy. Fortunately the shop4parts replacements (less than £20 a pair) come with new nuts.

Fit one end and nip up the nut, then put a second jack under the bottom of the suspension strut (a hydraulic bottle jack works well for this). Lift the strut so that the other end of the link is in line with the mounting hole, and it will then just fit straight in. You'll also be sure the link isn't under tension or compression for the final tightening.

Fiat use 16mm nuts on the OEM parts (just about the only size I don't have a good selection of tools for!), but the S4P links were supplied with 17mm self locking nuts, so if swapping these for the originals, don't be surprised to find you'll need different sized spanners when refitting. There was enough friction in the ball joints on the new parts to enable them to be tightened without needing to lock the spindles with an allen key, enabling the final tightening to be done with a socket (useful for those who might want to use a torque wrench for this).

Rusted fastenings aside, this is just about the easiest job on the car, so would make a good first project for someone getting into DIY maintenance. Droplinks don't affect the steering geometry, so there's no need to check the tracking afterwards.

 

[tommo1]

5/8" is so close to 16mm, it is suitable to use. I had a 16mm socket but no 16mm spanner and using a 5/8" was a good substitute. The old ones came off without hving to cut them off too. I've changed drop links on several cars so this was very welcome!

 

[jrkitching]

5/8" is so close to 16mm, it is suitable to use.

1/2"AF & 13mm are pretty much interchangeable, also.

That's actually a good tip; sometimes a socket or wrench from an imperial set can work well with corroded/undersized fasteners.

The old ones came off without having to cut them off too.

Fortunate, and judging by some of the other posts, unusual - I only managed this on one of the four nuts.

Having driven the car for a day now, I'm pleasantly surprised at how much quieter it is with the new droplinks. But after 13 years and 113k miles, perhaps it's not quite so surprising.