Technical Sump guard attachment

[Ianchappy]

Hi. Just bought OEM sump guard for 2013 twinair 4x4 panda, but can't seem to make it fit ! Can anyone post an image or diagram to help me please of the underneath? There are two arms which attach at the back and the bracket to which they attach can be set in two different ways it seems by loosening a small nut. Thanks

 

[The Panda Nut]

Locate the front in first. It has slots. Then put in a bolt loosely. Raise the rear and the holes should line up with minimal wiggling about. Put renaining bolts in and tighten.

 

[Panda IIs]

Locate the front in first. It has slots. Then put in a bolt loosely. Raise the rear and the holes should line up with minimal wiggling about. Put renaining bolts in and tighten.

What he said! (@The Panda Nut) There are a couple of notches and the front then bolt up the back using the holes in the 6mm stiffeners.

I used some stainless socket head screws from Screwfix with stainless penny washers. You can see one of the hooks below. If you follow the sequence only one set of holes align.

 

[Ianchappy]

Thanks. I have worked out that the rear bracket is from the sump guard I am replacing i.e. not OEM. Could you tell or show me how the OEM sump guard is attached on the two rear 'forks' to the body work? Are OEM brackets required?

 

[benmac]

The rear legs bolt into threaded holes in the subframe if I recall. No bracketry required. If there hasn't been a guard in there for a while then it might be an idea to run a thread chaser through first.

 

[Ianchappy]

Thanks, I kind of was thinking that...the hole in the sump guard forks seems larger than the available hole in the body though, that's what's puzzling me a bit?

 

[benmac]

They're slotted to allow a bit of alignment adjustment.

 

[Panda IIs]

Thanks, I kind of was thinking that...the hole in the sump guard forks seems larger than the available hole in the body though, that's what's puzzling me a bit?

The threads are standard M6 (10mm a/f hex bolts). OEM bolts typically shear off as they rust in place. Is it feasible that the non-standard bracket uses the OEM holes in the subframe?

 

[Ianchappy]

The threads are standard M6 (10mm a/f hex bolts). OEM bolts typically shear off as they rust in place. Is it feasible that the non-standard bracket uses the OEM holes in the subframe?

Yes it does. I will get the new bolts as you recommend, and attempt direct mounting to subframe as suggested. Could you kindly advise what length to buy, as a search shows a lot of options? Thanks

 

[Panda IIs]

Yes it does. I will get the new bolts as you recommend, and attempt direct mounting to subframe as suggested. Could you kindly advise what length to buy, as a search shows a lot of options? Thanks

I think I used M6 x 25mm 304 stainless from screwfix plus the stainless penny washers (per photos above). Some folk get anxious about electrolytic corrosion between the stainless and carbon steel subframe but assembled with copper grease (and dismantled every year for service, of course...) I've not had any issues. The OEM steel bolts create way more issues. I don't think the length is too critical since I don't think the holes are blind.

The original (OEM) sump guard lasted 13 years, I did give my new one an extra coat of paint but I figure something else will be terminal on the car before another is required(?). Here's some areas that might be attended too before it goes on.

 

[benmac]

Amateur! They need to have properly vanished!

 

[Funky Spike]

Amateurs. I've ensured that my TA has a small oil leak that drips on to the sump guard to ensure longevity.

Spike

 

[Panda IIs]

Amateur! They need to have properly vanished!

Yes, must try harder! I too have now arranged an oil leak so there will be some good second hand parts out there in due course (post #3 above)