lemans24heur
New member
as the title says does anyone know how to or has anyone changed one as mine is corroded and is leaking
any help please
Andrew
any help please
Andrew
General sump change
- Thread starter lemans24heur
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General sump change
The sumps do not have a gasket as they are bonded on with silicon sealant.
Make sure the surfaces to be bonded are clean, free from oil and loose crap.
Make sure the surfaces to be bonded are clean, free from oil and loose crap.
first drain the oil from your car by jacking up the car & removing the sump plug
then theres like 10 or so 10mm bolts around the edge just undo thm all and then leaver the sump off using a screwdriver
then clean all olf sealant off the engine and wipe with meths to remove all grease n dirt.
apply new thick line of sealant on new sump and then reverse the order of how u took it off
shouldnt take no longer then 2 hours but is a very messy job
then theres like 10 or so 10mm bolts around the edge just undo thm all and then leaver the sump off using a screwdriver
then clean all olf sealant off the engine and wipe with meths to remove all grease n dirt.
apply new thick line of sealant on new sump and then reverse the order of how u took it off
shouldnt take no longer then 2 hours but is a very messy job
Best to warm the engine a little before oil drain down.
Oil comes out better.
Check the oil pick up gauze on the pump intake is clean before re_assemly.
Oil comes out better.
Check the oil pick up gauze on the pump intake is clean before re_assemly.
1.1 engine?
1, drain oil
2, remove flywheel cover
3, remove all sump bolts
4, prise the sump off (the sealant will still be gluing it in place) Pull it away carefully so as to not hit the oil pickup which hangs down from the engine to the bottom of the sump.
At this point i left the sump off overnight to get as much oil out as possible, because if some oil dribbles down onto the mating surface, the sealent wont stick at that point and leave a gap.
5, use a stanley blade to scrape all sealent off the block - take your time with this step, dont skimp on it.
6, check the sump in place. it can be fiddly to put on especially near the flywheel end, so this practice will do you good.
7, put a continuos bead of sealent right around the mating surface on the sump.
8, place the sump in position and start replacing the bolts.
9, when the sealent had dried, you might want to trim excess sealent near the flywheel and crankshaft pully.
10, replace flywheel cover
11, remove and replace oil filter
12, fill with oil.
13, take it around the block and then cross your fingers when you park up and check for leaks
1, drain oil
2, remove flywheel cover
3, remove all sump bolts
4, prise the sump off (the sealant will still be gluing it in place) Pull it away carefully so as to not hit the oil pickup which hangs down from the engine to the bottom of the sump.
At this point i left the sump off overnight to get as much oil out as possible, because if some oil dribbles down onto the mating surface, the sealent wont stick at that point and leave a gap.
5, use a stanley blade to scrape all sealent off the block - take your time with this step, dont skimp on it.
6, check the sump in place. it can be fiddly to put on especially near the flywheel end, so this practice will do you good.
7, put a continuos bead of sealent right around the mating surface on the sump.
8, place the sump in position and start replacing the bolts.
9, when the sealent had dried, you might want to trim excess sealent near the flywheel and crankshaft pully.
10, replace flywheel cover
11, remove and replace oil filter
12, fill with oil.
13, take it around the block and then cross your fingers when you park up and check for leaks
Hmmm .... so the exhaust can stay on ????
Ming
Ming
iirc, yes you can work around it.
