Technical Stilo Axle stand positioning

[BLKC99]

Hey all

May be a silly question but I need some help in working out where I can i can safely jack my stilo from the front and rear safely and place a set of axle stands . I am worried as I am prone to damaging things and previously I have bent some parts underneath my old JTD due to not knowing where to place the stands correctly. I need to jack the car up from both ends to do some maintenance so I want to do it safely and without any breakages.

From the pictures I have found on the Forum some people position their axle stands in different positions underneath the car. I found some picks with a stilo fully loaded on some axle stands but I do not really know what I am looking at , I tried to get underneath the car today to have a peek and I am still unsure so I thought i would ask for some advice.

Any help will be appreciated and thanks in advance.

These are the pics of a stilo fully loaded on some stands, from what i gather the stands at the front are hooked under the chassis ???? and the rear are hooked under the rear axle joints?????

Is this where the axle stand at the front hooks under??

Any tips

 

[gadge]

very good question mate, this may not be the "correct" way but i jack the front up using the jacking points just behind the front wheel, on the sill, i then put my axle stands on the flat part of the wishbone (the 2nd arrow on the right of your last bottom picture).

i found the back more challanging. ideally the axle stands need to be where the jacks are in your first photo, i had mine on the actuall cross beam but i don't recommend this because with all the movement, it was quite unstable so won't be trying that again?

 

[Yellow Peril]

Personally I wouldn't go near the sills as they are shrouded in plastic on the Schumi and liable to breakage if they have to bear the weight of the car. If you use a long (12") piece of wood between the axle stand and the car to spread the load, you can use the floorplan just inboard of the sills instead.

 

[BLKC99]

Thanks you for the reply guys

very good question mate, this may not be the "correct" way but i jack the front up using the jacking points just behind the front wheel, on the sill, i then put my axle stands on the flat part of the wishbone (the 2nd arrow on the right of your last bottom picture).

i found the back more challanging. ideally the axle stands need to be where the jacks are in your first photo, i had mine on the actuall cross beam but i don't recommend this because with all the movement, it was quite unstable so won't be trying that again?

I really appreciate your advice bud as in all honest truth it would come down to some sort of guess work and without a doubt I would end up breaking something :bang:

Personally I wouldn't go near the sills as they are shrouded in plastic on the Schumi and liable to breakage if they have to bear the weight of the car. If you use a long (12") piece of wood between the axle stand and the car to spread the load, you can use the floorplan just inboard of the sills instead.

This is what I damaged in my old car when I jacked the bloody thing up, well one of the things both sills were left with a noticeable dent underneath and I was jot happy

Thanks guys I can safely now relax and get this red beast of the ground without any tears or paranoia, well appreciated

 

[ramborobert]

Whatever you do dont jack the sills but i find the axel stands safe enough on the sills but the wood is a good idea.

 

[fruchty]

I did it this way today:

Are these ok places for jack stands?

 

[mhowse]

I have used your top photo many times with no ill effect rear beam is pretty sturdy .

Have also used the bottom photo option on the beam however the route I chose was to place a suitable piece of wood that ran a good few inches either side of the beam weld to reduce any stress to the beam weld and also protect any underseal , so would suggest finding some spare bits of wood to have handy for future.. no need to go destroying any rain forrests always spare bit of timber doing nothing somewhere in the shed.

obviously which of above you choose depends on the work you are tackling on the car.

 

[fruchty]

I'm back again with another question.
I made this:

Some people on an other forum pointed out that this position is not suitable for oil changing, since the car is tilted back too much, which will prevent some the oil to drain from the sump.

If this is true it means it will be a hassle again to lift the rear up and drain the rest of the oil, because Stilo doesn't have a central real jacking point and you can't just lift it up for a few minutes and let it drain, you have to jack each rear side separately. I'm even more worried about jacking the rear when the front is on the ramps I made, because I think a lot of stress will be put on the chassis if both rear sides are not jacked up simultaneously.

 

[mhowse]

Yes you are correct the way you have is not suitable for changing the oil,

If you only wish to raise the front to change the oil and filter and air filter the way I do it is to use a trolley jack and just raise one side with the jack on the subframe as arrowed in one of the diagrams above and place axle stand under as well for security in case trolley jack gives way, remove bottom engine shield and slacken the drain bolt slightly then lower car to the ground, there is enough room then to fit a oil catch can and remove the drain bolt completely to drain the oil with the car on level ground , then all the rest is possible with not raising the car again..this applies for oil and filter change and also use this method for air filter cleaning/changing

 

[Davren]

Some people on an other forum pointed out that this position is not suitable for oil changing, since the car is tilted back too much, which will prevent some the oil to drain from the sump.

The JTD sump plug is at the rear edge of the sump, so jacking the front of the car up would enable more oil to drain out of the sump, not less.

While adjusting the valve clearances on my JTD recently, I think I saw the camshaft housing oil drains at the front of the housing, so if you have driven the car on to your ramps, a very small amount of old oil will remain in the housing.
.

 

[fruchty]

I will do an experiment - I'll drive the car on my ramps, open the sump plug and let it drain. When the main current will stop, I'll jack the rear of the car so it will be level and observe how much more oil will pour out

On a side note, do valve clearances have to be adjusted on the 150hp Multijet? If so, how often?

Edit: I have looked into eLearn and is says "Hydraulic tappets" for this engine...

 

[Davren]

do valve clearances have to be adjusted on the 150hp Multijet? If so, how often?

Edit: I have looked into eLearn and is says "Hydraulic tappets" for this engine...

The JTD 8 valve is the only Stilo engine that has adjustable valve clearances.
.

 

[fruchty]

Great, thank you!

 

[Steve148]

The JTD sump plug is at the rear edge of the sump, so jacking the front of the car up would enable more oil to drain out of the sump, not less..

Agreed. Those timber ramps will be fine for a JTD oil change. But please put an end-stop on the front of them....!

 

[fruchty]

Stops have been fitted right after this picture was taken

 

[aurick86]

I think the ramp is maybe a bit to high.
You don't really need that much space to change the oil.

 

[fruchty]

You don't have to drive all the way up... I wasn't sure how it's going to turn out and I didn't want to risk it