The repair kit for the fuel pump looks like just a bag of new seals rather than new parts, so the pump could just have a dodgy seal rather than anything worn out. It may be worth trying to unbolt any pipe/connection that is accessible and inspecting/replacing the copper washer or O-ring etc. that's leaking. If it doesn't work, or you can't fix the leaky one with the pump in place, then you're no worse off.
Cambelt... the crank pulley markings are a little bit deceptive.
On mine, there is a cut-out/slot at the 6 o'clock position on the engine casing which I thought was something to do with the timing, and the pulley has an index notch moulded in it, which I thought would line up with this slot... But the slot seems to have nothing to do with the timing and the notch on the pulley points up at 10 o'clock (or more like 9:30) when the crank is at TDC .. and there is no other mark or index there for it to "point" to..
I concluded that the crank can only be aligned by fitting the tool on it.. although on mine, I've painted a mark on the casing to line up with the pulley mark, just to make it easier to check at a glance, without having to refit the tool.
In reality, it's very hard to rotate the pulley by accident, so it's not as tricky or risky as it sounds. The biggest aggro' is the tensioner, since this is a critical piece, impossible to see what you're doing and difficult to lever into position without the proper tool. I usually manage to lever it using a pry bar pivoting on any handy bit of engine but it's only "worked first time" once.
Make sure the pointer is pointing at the hole. I usually turn the engine over by hand twice, to see what it's doing, and then if it looks okay, just start the engine and then more or less immediately kill it.. then re-check the pointer. The pointer tends to go "loose" after you turn the engine over, so I try to point it slightly "tight" so that hopefully it aligns with the hole perfectly after you rotated the engine a few times.
Use a phone to take a photo of the pointer.. it's the easiest way I've found to look at the pointer "face on". Otherwise it's tricky to see.
I never had any luck with the lines on the belt lining up with the marks on the cam cover and pulley etc. that you might also read about. The OE belt lines up with the marks, if I remember correctly the one time I had one... but on any after-market belt that fits several engines, the lines never both line up. The lines are meant to confirm that the cam and crank are timed correctly in relation to each other.. but if you have the tool and you line up the marks on the pulley and the cases, then that's the better way to check.
If you remove the camshaft pulley to replace the water pump (pump can't come out otherwise) make sure that you lock the pulley using the rectangular tool with the pointer/tooth on it. If you don't, the camshaft can rotate and the valves touch the piston. This isn't serious in itself (static) but the "unbolting" force that is turning the cam pulley, will be pressing the valves against the piston and so can bend them. So the camshaft mustn't move (although otherwise a bit of movement that doesn't make the valves touch the piston isn't serious.. you can just rotate the cam back into position a few mm. afterwards).
The only hazards are that the (M12) bolt you use to tighten this "tooth" tool screws into aluminium, so when you tighten it to keep the tool from moving, be careful not to strip the thread. The other problem (my car suffered) is that when you unscrew the camshaft pulley bolt, the force required will put pressure on the locating dowel on the back of the camshaft pulley. The nut holding it is very tight and the tooth tool (which you don't want to over-tighten) might move a bit, allowing the pulley to rotate, so the force can damage the dowel.
A rounded off, or cracked dowel will allow the pulley to move a few degrees on the locating key which will make your cam timing a little bit "off". On mine the "free movement" range was almost 1 tooth, so it wouldn't damage the engine .. but the car ran better when I got it spot on, rather than slightly out. In the end I got fed up with having to re-adjust the timing after I'd put it all together.. so I bought a new pulley... and with a nice, "square shouldered" dowel it locates precisely.
Ralf S.