Technical Stilo 1.8 16v Timing belt, Variator, Water Pump

[astacheva]

Let me give you a little help. I've been working on my 1.8 since 2017 so i know something about them. Also i completely rebuilt the engine. If you have any questions i'll glandly answer it.

Here is a picture of how the timing needs to be. TDC at cylinder 1. The the camshaft locks.

 

[burtontrent]

Let me give you a little help. I've been working on my 1.8 since 2017 so i know something about them. Also i completely rebuilt the engine. If you have any questions i'll glandly answer it.

Here is a picture of how the timing needs to be. TDC at cylinder 1. The the camshaft locks.

Astacheve Thank You for the help, , That looks really good, exactly as I have got it now, I put a dial gauge on number one yesterday and got two other mechanic mates to come and help. We decided, that there was nothing in the kit that would be suitable to lock up the flywheel (No Space) to get locking tools in. So just went with the dial gauge, as it had not moved after the belt was fitted, we locked up the four bolts on the inlet cam sprocket and job done. I have to strip the oil pump now, clean and check it, as it was'nt picking up oil, maybe rusty, as the vehicle has sat for 4 years same as yours, since about 2017.One thing that I have to say is the shape of the car is what sells it, it is a really nice style of design. Thanks again for your help.Id I can be of any assistance to you in the future please 'Hollah' as I have a lot of experience on Euro cars of different brands. I have a SLK 280 at the moment great little car.

 

[astacheva]

Astacheve Thank You for the help, , That looks really good, exactly as I have got it now, I put a dial gauge on number one yesterday and got two other mechanic mates to come and help. We decided, that there was nothing in the kit that would be suitable to lock up the flywheel (No Space) to get locking tools in. So just went with the dial gauge, as it had not moved after the belt was fitted, we locked up the four bolts on the inlet cam sprocket and job done. I have to strip the oil pump now, clean and check it, as it was'nt picking up oil, maybe rusty, as the vehicle has sat for 4 years same as yours, since about 2017.One thing that I have to say is the shape of the car is what sells it, it is a really nice style of design. Thanks again for your help.Id I can be of any assistance to you in the future please 'Hollah' as I have a lot of experience on Euro cars of different brands. I have a SLK 280 at the moment great little car.

Great. When I didn't used to have the flywheel locking tool I used a piece of rubber hose and press right under the crackshaft sprocket with the timing belt already in place. That way the crackshaft won't move as easy while putting the timing belt.

Here I a picture of my oil pump if you ever wonder how it looks inside. Be really careful with the phillip head screws as you could easily strip them.

Goos luck mate. Any questions I'll be here.

 

[burtontrent]

Great. When I didn't used to have the flywheel locking tool I used a piece of rubber hose and press right under the crackshaft sprocket with the timing belt already in place. That way the crackshaft won't move as easy while putting the timing belt.

Here I a picture of my oil pump if you ever wonder how it looks inside. Be really careful with the phillip head screws as you could easily strip them.

Goos luck mate. Any questions I'll be here.

Thank you so much for your help with this car. It is already sold to a mate , he has been waiting to take it off me, so hope I get it finished promptly. Its so nice that the 'Oil Pump' comes off the block, makes it an easy affair. I downloaded th Elearn manual on the car. By the Way what is your name, stay in touch mate. Burton Trent. (PS I am on FB and lots of sites.) Thanks again!

 

[burtontrent]

Great. When I didn't used to have the flywheel locking tool I used a piece of rubber hose and press right under the crackshaft sprocket with the timing belt already in place. That way the crackshaft won't move as easy while putting the timing belt.

Here I a picture of my oil pump if you ever wonder how it looks inside. Be really careful with the phillip head screws as you could easily strip them.

Goos luck mate. Any questions I'll be here.

Could you just verify to remove the 'oil pump' Astacheva, to clean & cjeck. Do you have to remove the cambelt again, or is it all part 9integral) of the side of the block? Is it behind the Oil Filter? Does the cambelt have to be removed to get to it?

 

[astacheva]

Could you just verify to remove the 'oil pump' Astacheva, to clean & cjeck. Do you have to remove the cambelt again, or is it all part 9integral) of the side of the block? Is it behind the Oil Filter? Does the cambelt have to be removed to get to it?

Sorry for the late response.
Yes, you need to take off the cambelt, crankshaft sprocket, the oil sump (crankcase) and last all the 10mm bolts holding it to the block to replace the oil pump.
Needless to say also the 2 coolant hoses going to the oil cooler (where the oil filter screws).

 

[burtontrent]

From manu

Sorry for the late response.
Yes, you need to take off the cambelt, crankshaft sprocket, the oil sump (crankcase) and last all the 10mm bolts holding it to the block to replace the oil pump.
Needless to say also the 2 coolant hoses going to the oil cooler (where the oil filter screws).

Ok Aschiuta, Hope all is going well for you. I have been trying to remove the 'Crank Bolt' but I'm certain it has Eslock on it, I've used a 3/4 drive Milwaukee electric Impact Wrench my Air one will not budge it, nor will the Milwaukee which is unusual as I've never had issues with so much torque on a crank bolt. These Milwaukee's put out about 720NM. So it should move but it is'nt? Unless it is a Left hand thread? Which I doubt? So going to remove the sump so I can lock up the crank internally. Any ideas anyone? please reply thank you.

 

[astacheva]

Ok Aschiuta, Hope all is going well for you. I have been trying to remove the 'Crank Bolt' but I'm certain it has Eslock on it, I've used a 3/4 drive Milwaukee electric Impact Wrench my Air one will not budge it, nor will the Milwaukee which is unusual as I've never had issues with so much torque on a crank bolt. These Milwaukee's put out about 720NM. So it should move but it is'nt? Unless it is a Left hand thread? Which I doubt? So going to remove the sump so I can lock up the crank internally. Any ideas anyone? please reply thank

It's left hand thread indeed. (loses clockwise)

Get yourself some very long breaker bar or long pipe. Its gonna be sweaty for sure. lol
Heating it up helps.

Torque spec is around 140 ft/pound if my memory doesn't fail me. Without threadlock

 

[burtontrent]

It's left hand thread indeed. (loses clockwise)

Get yourself some very long breaker bar or long pipe. Its gonna be sweaty for sure. lol
Heating it up helps.

Torque spec is around 140 ft/pound if my memory doesn't fail me. Without threadlock

So it undoes clockwise, is that what you are saying? Astacheva .......Muchas Gracias

 

[burtontrent]

So it undoes clockwise, is that what you are saying? Astacheva .......Muchas Gracias

Oh Ok Loosens clockwise got it!

 

[burtontrent]

Oh Ok Loosens clockwise got it!

yes all good done it easy! THANK YOU!