Technical Starting Problem and Injector Light

[C&R Munich]

Hi, anyone got an idea about this one.

When turning the key to start, injector light comes on for a few seconds and then sometimes goes off for a split second and then comes on again and it won't start? Hot or cold seems to make little difference although it seems marginally better when cold and full of fuel.

I hate intermittent problems, all suggestions welcome, but I've searched high and low in internet with no luck

 

[docorangepeel]

Hi,
At a punt take out the injectors and give them a clean. I dont know what a new replacment set would cost.

Like to know how you get on with this problem so I can add it to my site for other B owners that get this problem.

Doc Orange Peel

 

[Alan.D]

Does the code light shaped like a key come on at the same time or remain on when it doesn't start?

 

[C&R Munich]

Code light is OK and if I keep turning the key on and off after about 15 mins starts.

 

[docorangepeel]

Hi
The fuel pressure OK ? Fuel filter in good condition ? Give DTR a call.
Hope you get it fixed soon

Doc Orange Peel

 

[leenay]

Hi, I had a similar problem to this on my barc a couple of years ago. On my car it was caused by a failed phasing sensor in the engine (I think this is what it is called). Its job is to detect if the engine is/can run ok and if it fails then the injector light comes on and the car will not start. My car would start from cold but when warmed up the light would come on and the car wouldn't restart once stopped until it was cooled down. I got it replaced but the job involves removing the cam belt so it is not cheap. It might be possible just to tell the car to ignore the sensor fault as a cheaper option if it is that which is broken! Hope you get to the bottom of it. One way to diagnose it is to take the car to Fiat and get them to plug it into a diagnostic computer which should tell you what is wrong. My dealer did this for free.

 

[The Sultan]

Hi, I had a similar problem to this on my barc a couple of years ago. On my car it was caused by a failed phasing sensor in the engine (I think this is what it is called). Its job is to detect if the engine is/can run ok and if it fails then the injector light comes on and the car will not start. My car would start from cold but when warmed up the light would come on and the car wouldn't restart once stopped until it was cooled down. I got it replaced but the job involves removing the cam belt so it is not cheap. It might be possible just to tell the car to ignore the sensor fault as a cheaper option if it is that which is broken! Hope you get to the bottom of it. One way to diagnose it is to take the car to Fiat and get them to plug it into a diagnostic computer which should tell you what is wrong. My dealer did this for free.

the phase sences rotations of the cam shaft and tells the engine ecu where top dead center is on number one cylinder so it knows wich cylinder to inject on without it the injector warning might flash i'm not shore

but the engine can not run without this sensor so teling the car to ignore it is not an option nor posible

with a fault like this you whould have to change every sensor on the engine to find out what was up so best fing is to contact your dealer and get it on the examiner

that will tell exactly what the fault is
even if the fault has gone as the car keeps a record of all faults

 

[C&R Munich]

Took it to the dealer and the only possible intermittent fault seems to be the Lambda sensor, but would this cause the problem when engine is cold?

 

[docorangepeel]

Not sure sorry.

 

[Alan.D]

Could do if it's sending the wrong signal the engine will under or over fuel.

 

[superspotter]

You do not need to remove the cambelt to replace this sensor. You will have access to it if you remove the offside wheel and inner wing cover. regards clive.

 

[C&R Munich]

Thanks People, problem solved, see the thread under Red and Blue Keys. My problem is quite common with Hitachi ECUs apparently. They lose the link to the code block randomly, no code light comes on, just the injector light. So I replaced the ECU, Code Block, Blue key and barrel with 2nd hand one and seems OK now. Just idling problem to sort out which i understand is common when replacing ECU due to memorised settings.

Still need a red key I guess!