Aye mike, but mine's a fetching ivory colourThese are my other methods, both will read up to 400 Amps for most starter cranking.
From memory I believe @Pugglt Auld Jock has the bottom one, being old school like me.
- probably white when new?
Technical Starter motor issues - Fiat 500F 1970
- Thread starter ThomasK
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Technical Starter motor issues - Fiat 500F 1970
- probably white when new?Probably made from real ivory in those days.Aye mike, but mine's a fetching ivory colour
Still pointless.These are my other methods, both will read up to 400 Amps for most starter cranking.
From memory I believe @Pugglt Auld Jock has the bottom one, being old school like me.
A current meter will only advise what current is actually flowing, so if it is low you won't be able to tell which one of the many circuit components is causing the problem.
IMO, the best tool for diagnosing starter cable poor connection/corrosion issues would be a hand held thermal imaging camera, directed along the cable while attempting to turn the engine over. This would immediately show up the location of any hotspots generated by corrosion, or high resistive poor connection.
I'm not saying that the many meters and testers are not handy because they are (I have a tons of them too) but they are only a guide, and can only test a particular aspect, and are not particularly good at fault finding of high current applications.
As you say suitable for testing a particular aspect, which in this case I was intending for where a starter motor coils are partly burnt out due to overloading, so they draw a higher amperage than is normal for a good starter.
The thermal test is good for the connections etc.I agree.
I know electricity companies use them for testing along supply pylons, a mate of mine used to hire helicopters to the utility companies and he mentioned when flying them over housing estates how they lit up over drug farms due to high energy use.
I have a simple hand held lazer dot temp measurer, which is good, but very limited in its useablity.
I might treat myself to a decent imaging one as I deserve it
and need a bit of retail therapy.ZaphodB
Established member
You could always throw a spanner across the terminals 
If you can pick the spanner up the battery is knackered
If you can't pick the spanner back up the battery will shortly be knackered
(Don't throw a spanner across the terminals )
If you can pick the spanner up the battery is knackered
If you can't pick the spanner back up the battery will shortly be knackered
(Don't throw a spanner across the terminals
)But at least your hands will be warm.You could always throw a spanner across the terminals
If you can pick the spanner up the battery is knackered
If you can't pick the spanner back up the battery will shortly be knackered
(Don't throw a spanner across the terminals
ZaphodB
Established member
Yeah but ... yeah but....and you won't need a thermal camera
ThomasK
New member
I’ve briefly cleaned the terminals, but I’ll try again using sandpaper or a wire brush as suggested. Overall, the clamps appear to be in good condition.
I also tested a temporary ground connection from the battery directly to the engine, but it didn’t make any difference.
What puzzles me is why this would suddenly become an issue, especially since everything worked fine before the ignition failure.
Could there be another explanation?
ZaphodB
Established member
Nope, not from what you've said/how you've described it.
You specifically said:
I'll repeat: If everything else you're doing to start the car is the same (battery alone or booster pack), and you're clamping the booster on top of/over BOTH battery clamps then the only thing that makes sense there is poor condition battery posts and/or clamps. (or the battery itself)
You're attaching the booster 12V to the exact same point in the car circuit as the battery , but you're attaching the booster to the outside of the clamps , the battery connects obviously to the inside of that same clamp.
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My instincts still point towards the starter being partly burnt out due to "flogging " it over when you had the ignition problem which you mention was the start ? of the starter problem. It is something I have seen before and yes I agree a big battery or power pack will kick it over faster, but I feel that may be disguising the problem.
Even on this Forum I have read posts on slow turning 2.8 Sofim engines in Motor Homes that a new starter has made a massive improvement.
Also bear in mind the vehicles are many years old, so a good chance the starter is too.
Even on this Forum I have read posts on slow turning 2.8 Sofim engines in Motor Homes that a new starter has made a massive improvement.
Also bear in mind the vehicles are many years old, so a good chance the starter is too.
Both above theories have their own merit. Testing the battery connections is the simplest to do, so: Take a voltmeter (multimeter) and place the probes on the outside of the battery terminals and see what the voltage is when cranking, then repeat with probes on the actual lead terminals of the battery itself. If the voltage is lower when the probes are on the outside of the terminals then the connection between the terminals and battery post/s are the problem
@ZaphodB I've wanted a thermal imaging camera for a while now - Lots of posts on you tube about what interesting things you can do with them - but i really can't justify the cost - I'm talking about a "proper" imaging camera here, not just a temperature gauge.
@ZaphodB I've wanted a thermal imaging camera for a while now - Lots of posts on you tube about what interesting things you can do with them - but i really can't justify the cost - I'm talking about a "proper" imaging camera here, not just a temperature gauge.
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ZaphodB
Established member
Have we any pics of the clamps ?
Is it a tapered post battery
Are they cast or strip metal?
I'm wondering if they've been stretched over the years offering little clamping force ...
When attached is there still a gap where the bolt is?
A good test I've used in the past for revealing a knackered clamp (depending on the design) on someone elses car is to grab a firm hold and try and twist it off the post (use a rag if your skin is delicate)
You could also try removing both clamps and attaching jump leads between clamp and post
Is it a tapered post battery
Are they cast or strip metal?
I'm wondering if they've been stretched over the years offering little clamping force ...
When attached is there still a gap where the bolt is?
A good test I've used in the past for revealing a knackered clamp (depending on the design) on someone elses car is to grab a firm hold and try and twist it off the post (use a rag if your skin is delicate
)You could also try removing both clamps and attaching jump leads between clamp and post
Might be that the actual wires in the lead are not making a good contact with the clamp? I've seen this particularly with the type you show on the left where the wires can come loose under the little retaining screws?Have we any pics of the clamps ?
Is it a tapered post battery
Are they cast or strip metal?
View attachment 470055View attachment 470056
I'm wondering if they've been stretched over the years offering little clamping force ...
When attached is there still a gap where the bolt is?
A good test I've used in the past for revealing a knackered clamp (depending on the design) on someone elses car is to grab a firm hold and try and twist it off the post (use a rag if your skin is delicate
You could also try removing both clamps and attaching jump leads between clamp and post
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
My last two battery failures showed 12.6 volts at rest but were completely dead. I dont trust new batteries either till they prove themselves and settle down!
I hope you were wise enough to check this at several points on the engine (even on the starter motor itself) remember you're only trying to prove a point. Once you prove it, you can fix it, untill then you're still
@ZaphodB Whilst I agree with every point you make in your post #31, I also think there is some mileage in @bugsymike's post #32
However, properly testing the earth path, can rule it out at almost no cost.
However, properly testing the earth path, can rule it out at almost no cost.
ZaphodB
Established member
Yep I don't disagree, it's got conflicts this story from the described symptoms and actions so far
I hope he comes back soon, I'm gonna be on my death bed "did we find out ?...."
