Technical Sluggish Stilo

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Technical Sluggish Stilo

Joined
May 18, 2008
Messages
292
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95
Location
South Wales
Hey guys,

I've got a 1.6 5 door dynamic, 52 plate and it is quite sluggish and lacking in power now. So im basically after things to check or posssible causes.

Ive notice it become quite sluggish over the past months, for example i will be driving in 3rd gear at 3000 revs, on a flat at a reasonabe speed and when i slam the pedal to the floor there is no kick in power, instead it will just slowly increase over the next 30-60 seconds, it is the same in 4th etc. It also just seems to need alot of throtle to go any where, my foots always all the way down just to get enough power to drive at a normal pace.

There is a noise coming from the exhaust somewhere, its isnt there when i first start the engine, but i will become aparant once the car is up to temperature. The noise isn't like a loud blowing noise as such, its more dull and suttle, i cant quite put my finger on where its coming from but it sounds like the front half of the car. I have taken it to a garage twice now and they cant find any hole or any signs of soot to indicate a hole.

so to sum up the main symptons are sluggishness, lack of power, poor fuel economy ( averaging 30mpg at the moment :) ) and a dull noise which makes it sound like a van or a deisel lol

I have been talking to my mate who has suggest to get the catalyict converter checked and to get the engine checked for a slight miss fire, and too check the cam belt.

any suggestion will be greatly apreciated. beacuase its has driven like this practically the hole time ive owned it (about a year) beacuse i have been thinking about getting a three door as they look much better but ive got my doubts because of this problem, not all stilo should drive like this should they?

cheers
 
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First thing to bear in mind is the 1.6 is never going to be a ball of fire. When I had mine I always felt it could do with more power (and that was after a re-map). I assume you've checked all the obvious things - new air filter, fresh oil & filter, renewed plugs etc? Obviously if you've got a blowing exhaust or worse, a blowing exhaust manifold, this will adversely affect performance. Cat converters are generally pretty reliable, so that wouldn't be my first suspect...
 
hey, i had it serviced about 9 months ago by my local fiat dealer, they changed they plug n fillter all then. but does evey ones out there drive like the way i decribed? from the sound of exhaust, like when i deselerate goin down a steep hill now and then i can hear slight poppings noises. I know its not going to be super quick, but i just want a little more saz, it just feels like driving through mud all the time.
 
This sounds like the same symptoms I had when coils went down one at a time. Get a £30 fault reader off ebay. Alternatively, does the car have an unstable idle moving from 750-1000 rpm - coil symptom for me. Also sounded like the exhaust was popping a little. Or, as listed on the forum, start the car and let it idle. Then disconnect the low voltage connector to the coils (carefully) one at a time. If the coil is working it will cause the car to stutter. If nothing happens then the coil is out. About £40 and 5 minutes to fix.
Our '52 1.6 Dynamic doesn't have a lot of low down grunt but if you keep it spinning then it does go surprisingly well - and up to now I've had nothing good to say about it!
 
but if a coil had gone wouldn't i have a fault message on the trip computer? i did have one go like a month after i bought it. Im not really that mechanical, so i don't have clue what the low votage supply looks like lol, i have taken the plastic cover off before i can see a plug of wires conecting to the top of each cyclinder, im guessing those are the coils. how does the fault reader work?
 
First, if you aren't that confident then I'd suggest some help from someone who is.
We've had a couple of coils go - one gave a warning light, the other didn't.

For checking the coils I followed a process listed on the forum. However, it does mean working around the engine while it's running and disconnecting electrics - which I would not advise you to do.

The code reader simply plugs in under the dash and lets you see what's been going wrong. It will also allow you to cancel codes. But again, if you aren't happy in this area then ask a mate who is.

Not that helpful I know but I wouldn't want you to get hurt.
 
cheers,

so if i use the code reader it will be able to tell me if a coil is faulty (is this a suitable one? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-Engine-Fault-Scanner_W0QQitemZ300297372430QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item300297372430&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1689%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318) because when that one went my car had no power, it cud only go around 30mph and engine was shaking badly and there was a huge noise coming from the exhaust, so will the reader pick up on a faulty one or just one thats has broken? could you also give me a little more detail on the low voltage test, am i thinking of the right plugs in my above entry. do i pull them completely out or just wigle them loose until the engine shutters? if i pull it completley out wont the engine stall as it will cause the cyclinder to missfire?

cheers for your help
 
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cheers,

so if i use the code reader it will be able to tell me if a coil is faulty (is this a suitable one? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-Engine-Fault-Scanner_W0QQitemZ300297372430QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item300297372430&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1689%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318) because when that one went my car had no power, it cud only go around 30mph and engine was shaking badly and there was a huge noise coming from the exhaust, so will the reader pick up on a faulty one or just one thats has broken? could you also give me a little more detail on the low voltage test, am i thinking of the right plugs in my above entry. do i pull them completely out or just wigle them loose until the engine shutters? if i pull it completley out wont the engine stall as it will cause the cyclinder to missfire?

cheers for your help


yep, that's the reader I bought. It's not easy to plug in as the socket is behind the panel to the lower right of the steering wheel - just awkward access and it's not obvious when it plugs in (no click). Read insructions first - really simple.

I've had two coils go and neither had such a dramatic effect although power way down, it was down more when coil 1 went than coil 3.

Quick check of the coils as described elsewhere on the forum.
1. Identify the coils. When you take the engine cover off you'll see the four of them across the front of the engine. They may have a high voltage sign on them!
2. Disconnect the clip to one coil (disconnect the wiring plug). Do this on one while the engine is off so you have a good idea of what to do.
3. Start the engine and let it reach idle. Keep ALL fingers and dangly things out of the way - no loose clothes, no chains etc.
4. With the engine idling work along the coils disconnecting, and then re-connecting one at a time. If the coil is working the engine revs will drop and then pick up to compensate.
If the coil is not working then nothing will happen.
5. To replace a coil, disconnect the wiring plug. Undo the 10mm bolt and pull the coil up. DO NOT DO THIS WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING - HIGH TENSION ELECTRICS HURT AND COULD DO YOU A LOT OF DAMAGE.

Alternatively, wait for your code reader and see what it says.

above all, be careful!
 
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Not unknown for the exhaust catalyser to get blocked if a lot of short journeys and a very "careful" driving style is adopted....

Does the exhaust output with much huff 'n puff or a slight blow? Modern cars dont like leaks or blockages in exhaust they can make the car go limp home mode.
 
cheers Wvam, i might have a look on the weekend.

well its strange, i've been thinking it is an exhaust problem because of the noise and because when the engine is started its practicaly un-noticeable but after 10 mins when its warmed up it makes a slight droning noise like the airflow is heavier or slightly strugeling to blow, so i was thinking it was a small hole that was opening when it got warm. Ive been to a agrage who have looked under and found no soot or signs of a hole but im not overly sure they checked the manifold and cat. When the car is idleing when its warm the airflo from the back box isn't a constant flow as such, its more like small pitta patters, i can feel it constantly slapping my hand gently. regarding short journesy i tend to spend 30 mins driving to wrk and same back.
 
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Easy enough to drop the back or even the whole exhaust off at the manifold and see if the engines Va-va-voom comes back. Mrs Ffoxy 1.2 is no ball of fire but I would imagine a 1.6 would feel very quick by comparison normally?

Try dropping the exhaust off and trying it for a moment to see.
 
There is a flexi section of the exhaust that often goes first. Looks ok, but gets worse after 10 minutes. After I got it cut off and welded in a new one (as it's a part of the manifold unit) the car went alot better. Even the wife felt it... (y)
 
how can i be sure it is the flexi part? i dont wana get it changed and find out its not the cause?

ALso any suggestion to where i get one from?

cheers

Get someone to block the backbox - hand with glove works great. Jack up (axle stands). Feel and smell the flexi for hot fumes. The garage couldn't find it at first, but I insisted it was there - and there it was. Don't bother about the little drain hole in the backbox - it's supposed to be there.

M.
 
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