Im trying to replace the front shock absorber but cant get the top nut off.(the one that sits in the cup) Never had problem in past but this wont budge! Have tried wd40,and even heating it up.Have broke 2 allen keys trying.Would removing the bottom two strut bolts(as in manual) help ease pressure?? Has anyone any ideas,even toying with grinding off the cup or drilling down the shaft.
Technical Shock absorber top nut removal.
- Thread starter texx
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Technical Shock absorber top nut removal.
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Do Neither of what you just said
When the allen key and swan neck spanner doesn't work, at college the only best way to get them off is to buzz with a windy gun
A couple of Clicks to shock it loose (see what i did there :devil
Then finish it off with spanner and allen key
On refitting, it may be worthwhile putting a small amount of copper slip on it too, its probably just seized on, and sometimes a windy is only way out
Normally tho - its the bottom swivel hub bolts that are the problem, they really do seize in stupidly well!
Ziggy
When the allen key and swan neck spanner doesn't work, at college the only best way to get them off is to buzz with a windy gun
A couple of Clicks to shock it loose (see what i did there :devil
Then finish it off with spanner and allen key
On refitting, it may be worthwhile putting a small amount of copper slip on it too, its probably just seized on, and sometimes a windy is only way out
Normally tho - its the bottom swivel hub bolts that are the problem, they really do seize in stupidly well!
Ziggy
howardsam95
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I used a allen key adapter on my wrench with a spanner, alot of effort but finally worked. Allen keys arent strong enough imo.
Good luck! Took me bout 2 hours to fit 2 new front springs
Sam
Good luck! Took me bout 2 hours to fit 2 new front springs
Sam
Use a real penetrating oil like GT 85 or Plus Gas. Leave for a couple of days.
Usually the ball end allen keys are of better quality than the plain ones (unless you buy top quality from a proper engineer's merchant.
Not sure of the procedure on Mk2s, but generally safe practice is to free the top bolt off (but do not remove!), remove strut from car, use coil spring compressors, remove top nut.
Usually the ball end allen keys are of better quality than the plain ones (unless you buy top quality from a proper engineer's merchant.
Not sure of the procedure on Mk2s, but generally safe practice is to free the top bolt off (but do not remove!), remove strut from car, use coil spring compressors, remove top nut.
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Personally i'd have the 2 bottom swivel bolts out - but keep 1 just on a few threads so it can fly out
Top Cap off
Pull shock out
Compress springs
Remove - replace - refit
I cant see why tho you could put the clamps on when the car is on the ground - it'll hold the springs in compression nicely for you then
However - i've only ever used a Floor mounted compressor, never those weird ratchet ones
Ziggy
Nah, you remove the shock, then put the clamps on. Just don't fully undo the top bolt.
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You have to undo the top nut fully to allow removal of the car
OR
do you mean the Nut that goes UNDER the cup that holds the mount in place?
Ziggy
Maybe. I mean the one that is actually reponsible for tensioning the spring.
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Yea there is 1 holding the whole lot to the car ontop of the Cup
then there is 1 under the cup with the mount
Ziggy
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groan...
And the groan is because?
Just about everyone who works on cars for a living will tell you that while WD40 is better than nothing, it doesn't cut the mustard as a penetrating oil when you compare it to the real thing.
And there are independent tests to prove it.
The groan should, surely, go in the direction of those who persist in using an unsuitable -- and often more expensive -- product. :bang:
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I would be interested in looking at them, can you recommend one? And I don't mean that in a facetious way
Define "them"?
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The independent tests you mentioned
Easiest one to find was in PPC less than a year ago. Several penetrating oils came out tops, all the general purpose sprays came out way below.
But why not do your own test? Get a few chunky pieces of mild steel bar and a few unplated cap head screws (the only important thing is to have ones with a recommended torque well within the parameters of your -- left and right hand acting) torque wrench. Drill and tap the bar. Degrease everything thoroughly. Torque up the cap heads (record the torque), put the whole lot in saline solution. Remove, expose to air for a couple of days, repeat several times. Finally rinse and allow to dry. Apply spray of your choice to each cap head, allow to soak, record torque needed to undo cap head.
But why not do your own test? Get a few chunky pieces of mild steel bar and a few unplated cap head screws (the only important thing is to have ones with a recommended torque well within the parameters of your -- left and right hand acting) torque wrench. Drill and tap the bar. Degrease everything thoroughly. Torque up the cap heads (record the torque), put the whole lot in saline solution. Remove, expose to air for a couple of days, repeat several times. Finally rinse and allow to dry. Apply spray of your choice to each cap head, allow to soak, record torque needed to undo cap head.
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Found some interesting stuff on the web, might make some witches brew
Deisel is a good start (but pretty much by accident!).
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Yes, if you're disposing of the shock absorber anyway, there's no need to worry about damaging the internals with a wizzy gun. I got stuck half-way through a mk1 strut replacement, so I had to take the assembly for a walk to a local garage who blasted it off for a couple of quid in the charity box.
