Technical Setting timing on 1.4 (90PS)

[Panther96]

The timing belt has failed on a 1.4 - 90PS 2010 Bravo, I've ordered a replacement belt, tensioner and water pump, but how do you set the timing (timing mark locations?), I know you can get tools to lock the cam etc. when changing the belt, but as the timing is already screwed this isn't an option.

Also is this an interference engine? Am I looking at possible valve damage?

 

[bugsymike]

The timing belt has failed on a 1.4 - 90PS 2010 Bravo, I've ordered a replacement belt, tensioner and water pump, but how do you set the timing (timing mark locations?), I know you can get tools to lock the cam etc. when changing the belt, but as the timing is already screwed this isn't an option.

Also is this an interference engine? Am I looking at possible valve damage?

Do you have the engine series code etc. I have a 2012 Auto data Timing book, but it seems a bit vague about a 1.4 Bravo around 2010.
Unless others have more detailed knowledge.

 

[Panther96]

Do you have the engine series code etc. I have a 2012 Auto data Timing book, but it seems a bit vague about a 1.4 Bravo around 2010.
Unless others have more detailed knowledge.

I'm sure it's the 192B2 engine

 

[bugsymike]

I'm sure it's the 192B2 engine

Sorry I can give you the technical data for that model as my Timing book for some reason only lists the 1.2 Bravo 16v the 182B2000 and the 1.6 Bravo 16v 1995-11 with an engine code of 182 A4.000-A6 and B6
My 2012 Auto data manual lists the Bravo 1.4 16V 90hp DOHC 2007-12 192B2.000 so I could give you all the torque settings etc. but no accurate detail on cambelt timing setup. Perhaps another Forum member can help.

 

[Panther96]

Sorry I can give you the technical data for that model as my Timing book for some reason only lists the 1.2 Bravo 16v the 182B2000 and the 1.6 Bravo 16v 1995-11 with an engine code of 182 A4.000-A6 and B6
My 2012 Auto data manual lists the Bravo 1.4 16V 90hp DOHC 2007-12 192B2.000 so I could give you all the torque settings etc. but no accurate detail on cambelt timing setup. Perhaps another Forum member can help.

No worries, thanks for taking the time to look.

 

[124BC1]

You'll need the special tools, there's no timing marks. I got a set from Sealey Tools several years ago when I did this job, but there are other suppliers.

When setting up the valve timing on this engine, the pistons are all set to precisely the same height in the cylinder bores - this is done by inserting graduated depth gauges into the spark plug holes of No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders.
There's a tool to lock the crankshaft in the correct position.
The 2 camshafts are locked in the correct positions by inserting 2 special tools into locating holes in the cams accessed by removing 2 screw-in blanking plugs in the cam housing.
There's also a tool to lock the camshaft sprocket while loosening/tightening the securing bolt - note, there's no keyway on the camshaft so sprocket can freewheel on the camshaft if bolt is loosened - loosening of this bolt may be needed for fine adjustment of the valve timing. (note, there's only one cam sprocket, the exhaust? cam is gear driven from the inlet cam under the cam cover).
There's also a small tool, like a spanner with 2 pins projecting on one side, for adjusting the timing belt tensioner.

Several years ago, I was able to view the necessary instructions for timing belt renewal, use of the special tools, torque settings etc. from the ePER section at the top of forum page, but on checking for you today I was unable to find the same info, maybe it's no longer available?
Sometimes this info is included in a leaflet with the box of special tools, or it might come with the timing belt kit, although someone recently elsewhere on this forum said that you now have to go onto the timing belt kit manufacturer's website to download the instructions as the leaflet is no longer included.

Afaik, this engine is an interference type so there may very well be valve damage. As you can't really do a compression check without a timing belt, I'd suggest turning the crankshaft until all pistons are approximately midway down the bores (so you can safely turn the camshafts), then remove the cam cover/s and check the valve clearances - if any are much larger than normal, then you've probably got bent valves. Or you could do a compression leak-down test if you have the necessary equipment (compressed air supply into a spark plug adaptor with a gauge and shut-off valve to do this check).

Here's wishing you good luck!

 

[bugsymike]

You'll need the special tools, there's no timing marks. I got a set from Sealey Tools several years ago when I did this job, but there are other suppliers.

When setting up the valve timing on this engine, the pistons are all set to precisely the same height in the cylinder bores - this is done by inserting graduated depth gauges into the spark plug holes of No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders.
There's a tool to lock the crankshaft in the correct position.
The 2 camshafts are locked in the correct positions by inserting 2 special tools into locating holes in the cams accessed by removing 2 screw-in blanking plugs in the cam housing.
There's also a tool to lock the camshaft sprocket while loosening/tightening the securing bolt - note, there's no keyway on the camshaft so sprocket can freewheel on the camshaft if bolt is loosened - loosening of this bolt may be needed for fine adjustment of the valve timing. (note, there's only one cam sprocket, the exhaust? cam is gear driven from the inlet cam under the cam cover).
There's also a small tool, like a spanner with 2 pins projecting on one side, for adjusting the timing belt tensioner.

Several years ago, I was able to view the necessary instructions for timing belt renewal, use of the special tools, torque settings etc. from the ePER section at the top of forum page, but on checking for you today I was unable to find the same info, maybe it's no longer available?
Sometimes this info is included in a leaflet with the box of special tools, or it might come with the timing belt kit, although someone recently elsewhere on this forum said that you now have to go onto the timing belt kit manufacturer's website to download the instructions as the leaflet is no longer included.

Afaik, this engine is an interference type so there may very well be valve damage. As you can't really do a compression check without a timing belt, I'd suggest turning the crankshaft until all pistons are approximately midway down the bores (so you can safely turn the camshafts), then remove the cam cover/s and check the valve clearances - if any are much larger than normal, then you've probably got bent valves. Or you could do a compression leak-down test if you have the necessary equipment (compressed air supply into a spark plug adaptor with a gauge and shut-off valve to do this check).

Here's wishing you good luck!

Your knowledge @124BC1 does seem to correlate some, at least of what I have regarding the smaller 1.2 16V 182B2.000 from 1997-08 in my 2012 Autodata Timing book, especially regarding the inserting depth gauges down to adjacent plug holes (though mine says 1&2 and yours says 3&4 which obviously would give same affect.
If between the two bits of advice maybe with care you can try it , as long as you always do the turning by hand several revolutions to ensure no contact (meetings between valves and pistons) then even if wrong no harm done.