You'll need the special tools, there's no timing marks. I got a set from Sealey Tools several years ago when I did this job, but there are other suppliers.
When setting up the valve timing on this engine, the pistons are all set to precisely the same height in the cylinder bores - this is done by inserting graduated depth gauges into the spark plug holes of No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders.
There's a tool to lock the crankshaft in the correct position.
The 2 camshafts are locked in the correct positions by inserting 2 special tools into locating holes in the cams accessed by removing 2 screw-in blanking plugs in the cam housing.
There's also a tool to lock the camshaft sprocket while loosening/tightening the securing bolt - note, there's no keyway on the camshaft so sprocket can freewheel on the camshaft if bolt is loosened - loosening of this bolt may be needed for fine adjustment of the valve timing. (note, there's only one cam sprocket, the exhaust? cam is gear driven from the inlet cam under the cam cover).
There's also a small tool, like a spanner with 2 pins projecting on one side, for adjusting the timing belt tensioner.
Several years ago, I was able to view the necessary instructions for timing belt renewal, use of the special tools, torque settings etc. from the
ePER section at the top of forum page, but on checking for you today I was unable to find the same info, maybe it's no longer available?
Sometimes this info is included in a leaflet with the box of special tools, or it might come with the timing belt kit, although someone recently elsewhere on this forum said that you now have to go onto the timing belt kit manufacturer's website to download the instructions as the leaflet is no longer included.
Afaik, this engine is an interference type so there may very well be valve damage. As you can't really do a compression check without a timing belt, I'd suggest turning the crankshaft until all pistons are approximately midway down the bores (so you can safely turn the camshafts), then remove the cam cover/s and check the valve clearances - if any are much larger than normal, then you've probably got bent valves. Or you could do a compression leak-down test if you have the necessary equipment (compressed air supply into a spark plug adaptor with a gauge and shut-off valve to do this check).
Here's wishing you good luck!