Technical seicento sporting will not start

[keithmercer]

I started this thread a week ago but I still have the problem so I thought I would start again. I have a Seicento sporting which will not start. The back ground is as follows.

1) Over heated as radiator failed. Replaced radiator.
2) Still overheating and air in the coolant header tank so head gasket replaced (inc timing belt).
3) Still overheating which was eventually traced back to cooling fan switch.

Whilst ticking over, warming the engine up to test all is OK for the second time (so it had been running for 20 - 30 min) it just cut out and has not started since. All it does is crank over, every now and then trying to start but not.

I have checked the obvoius, there is fuel evident at the intake when it is cranking over & I have removed 2 of the spark plugs and checked that I have a spark. I have also replace the plugs leads and crank sensor but still no joy.

Can any one help as I am begining to loose the will to live!

 

[Brooky]

Timinig gone a bit wonkey?

 

[keithmercer]

How is it adjusted? What do I need to do?

 

[fingers99]

The above seems the most likely -- if the tension wasn't right, the belt may have skipped a few teeth.

Or, HG has failed catastrophically. Do a compression test.

 

[keithmercer]

I have checked the timing belt and can confirm it is still in the right place (i.e both marks line up where they should) and when I removed the two plugs (1 & 3) to check for spark I checked the compresion and it was fine. Any other ideas?

 

[Brooky]

Do a proper compression test on all cylinders

 

[keithmercer]

Just checked all clyinders and they are fine. any more suggestions?

 

[fingers99]

You did those checks very quickly!

Given the above (and I'm half inclined to say do the tests again) I suspect the fuel side. Get a can of easystart and see what happens.

 

[keithmercer]

I have tried easy start and it did not have any effect. Although I have not tried it since I have changed the crank sensor.
I was getting arround 190psi on the compression test does that sound about right?
Any further ideas?

 

[fingers99]

I have tried easy start and it did not have any effect. Although I have not tried it since I have changed the crank sensor.
I was getting arround 190psi on the compression test does that sound about right?
Any further ideas?

If eaststart doesn't work, it would suggest a spark issue. 190psi on all cylinders? Any flickering?

Logically, it needs fuel, spark and compression, all happening in the right place/time.

 

[keithmercer]

just tried easy start again and no joy.

Flickering? My compression tester has non return valve so only records max after a few cranks.

If logic tells us its electrical and I am getting a spark it can only be that the timing is out. Do you agree?

If that's the case am I right to think the only way the timing could be out is that the timing belt is out of position?

 

[Brooky]

If that's the case am I right to think the only way the timing could be out is that the timing belt is out of position?

But you've checked that

IIRC i was getting around 220 on a compression test(head skin may have bumped this up abit, dunno), one cylinder was low at 180 tho

You say you changed the crank sensor.......is it positioned correctly

 

[keithmercer]

I have but I am now questioning everything! Aslo I was not completely sure whether there was something else which could effect the timing?

A far as I can tell the crank sensor is positioned correctly (can't really go wrong as far as I can see) any way it wasn't working before and it isn't working now!

 

[fingers99]

The air gap for the crank sensor is critical. Can't remember what it is OTTOMH.

Yeah, unless you've had the pulleys off in the meantime, only way timing can change is if belt has slipped.

Worthwhile checking the new leads are in the right coil packs, etc.

 

[keithmercer]

OTTOMH?

Yes I have triple checked the leads are in the right order, anyway originally the car was running and cut out!

I am sure that I have read somewhere that the gap needs to be 0.5 - 1mm (or something) but it also said the it was not adjustable?

 

[fingers99]

OTTOMH = off the top of my head!

gap may not be adjustable in the sense of "undo this bolt and move", but you can shim it in or out. I think 0.5 is more like it. Paper or card is fine as a shimming material.

 

[keithmercer]

Thanks for that I will check the setting and adjust if necessary tomorrow.

 

[keithmercer]

Could my problem be the ECU?

Whilst I was carrying out the previous work, to prove the fan switch was faulty, I jumped a wire accross the terminals to kick the fan in and I did this whilst running the engine to prove that the overheating was down to this.

Could I have introduced a fault to the ECU and now it is not letting the engine start? Does any one know if you can, and if so how to, reset the ECU if this is the case?

One further point the engine seems like it is more likely to start after it has been left for a while. I feel this may be down to the plugs being fully dry (not flooded) does this suggest to anyone a weak spark? If so is it likely it be the coils?

 

[fingers99]

Very unlikely to be ECU. Reset by disconnecting battery fron negative for 15 minutes.

Now it's not starting at all, check the plugs. If they're dry, fuel side fault, if they're wet, spark side. If the timings out, they'll be wet and you'll get a spark!

 

[keithmercer]

Update, I have now;

Taken the timing belt off again to be absolutly sure it has not slipped

Checked that I have between .5mm and 1.5mnm gap at the crank sensor

Disconnected the battery for 1 hr to see if it would clear the ECU

Rechecked that I am getting a spark

and it still will not start, it tries, but just will not take. Has any one got any ideas?