Complete Noob Question.. but.. how do i find out which series my RS Turbo is?
it's an '86 D Engine.
it's an '86 D Engine.
S1 or S2?
- Thread starter x Alex x
- Start date
Currently reading:
S1 or S2?
they look completely different.
series1: the hardcore badboy
series2: the soft family warmhatch
series1: the hardcore badboy
series2: the soft family warmhatch
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OP
OP
yeah i know mate, but mines the mk4 cabby with an RS Engine, it's the engine i need to find out which series it is, and i think '86 D reg is border line between the two.
there's a minter, just had nut and bolt restore white S1 RST round mine :yum:
there's a minter, just had nut and bolt restore white S1 RST round mine :yum:
s1
if yours doesnt look like that its a s2
if yours doesnt look like that its a s2
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D4nny8oy
Established member
s1
if yours doesnt look like that its a s2
Picture FAIL
Since when did RS's leave the factory with a 2litre 16v Focus ST170 engine?
OP
OP
heres what mine looks like, i think it's S2 but i need an alternator and the zorst pipe between the turbo and main pipe.
D4nny8oy
Established member
Alex-R, there's no easy way to confirm if it's a S1 or S2 lump as many parts are interchangeable.
There are some clues though-
S2 Turbo's were water-cooled, S1 Turbo's weren't (look for the coolant hoses).
S1 clutch was 200mm, S2 clutch was 220mm.
At the end of the day, if you really need an answer write down the engine number and go see your local Ford Parts Dept.
There are some clues though-
S2 Turbo's were water-cooled, S1 Turbo's weren't (look for the coolant hoses).
S1 clutch was 200mm, S2 clutch was 220mm.
At the end of the day, if you really need an answer write down the engine number and go see your local Ford Parts Dept.
D4nny8oy
Established member
I agree, it looks like a S2 due to the intercooler to charge carrier hose.
There shouldn't be a great difference in the exhaust/alternator between the two. Is it the down-pipe you need, or the Turbo elbow?
OP
OP
Alex-R, there's no easy way to confirm if it's a S1 or S2 lump as many parts are interchangeable.
There are some clues though-
S2 Turbo's were water-cooled, S1 Turbo's weren't (look for the coolant hoses).
S1 clutch was 200mm, S2 clutch was 220mm.
At the end of the day, if you really need an answer write down the engine number and go see your local Ford Parts Dept.
good info there, cheers mate, haven't notice any cooling hoses.
wonder if the parts i'm after are interchangeable.
still confused about the bit of the exhaust i need, between the turbo and main pipe, i'm assuming i need to get it from an S2 or S1 standard RS Turbo, but with mine being a cabby i'm not so sure
OP
OP
forgot i had a picture of my actual engine on here
Picture FAIL
Since when did RS's leave the factory with a 2litre 16v Focus ST170 engine?
apologies just took the picture from google images when searching for 'series 1 rs turbo engine picture'
must be the shell that is a series 1 hence why it fell under the link
OP
OP
apologies just took the picture from google images when searching for 'series 1 rs turbo engine picture'
must be the shell that is a series 1 hence why it fell under the link
the effort is appreciated mate
OP
OP
is it just me or does £30 each seem too much for an alternator and pipe
RS parts often cost double compared to normal escort parts so you cant complain really.
OP
OP
back in the day you could easily buy replacement brushes to recon that alternator. actually now i think about it i believe i have done one of those alternators because they use the same alternator on the 1.6MFi. brushes cost next to nothing so see if you can find some.
actually hang on a minute, if your problem is the bearing then brush replacement wont help, but if it isnt charging and it still sounds fine then replacing the brushes is the thing to do.
OP
OP
yeah, sounds fine, wouldnt know where to start with that though.
ill post up the post i put up on a cabby/rs owners club to explain.
ill post up the post i put up on a cabby/rs owners club to explain.
the battery light has nothing to do with it, and the AA man is retarded because the battery light isnt needed to diagnose the alternator. you use a multimeter instead to do a voltage drop test, which is far more accurate than looking for a dim glow on the battery light.
start engine, measure voltage across battery, switch all electrics on, measure voltage across battery again. make a note of the results and switch engine off. job done.
you need at least 13.99volts on the second test for the alternator to pass. any less and you need to firstly be sure the battery is not faulty and check the battery terminals are clean and the earth strap is not rotten, then you can be sure your alternator is the reason that the battery isnt charging effectively.
start engine, measure voltage across battery, switch all electrics on, measure voltage across battery again. make a note of the results and switch engine off. job done.
you need at least 13.99volts on the second test for the alternator to pass. any less and you need to firstly be sure the battery is not faulty and check the battery terminals are clean and the earth strap is not rotten, then you can be sure your alternator is the reason that the battery isnt charging effectively.
OP
OP
OP
OP
right, plan on testing it today since i have a multi meter off a mate, so was he wrong about the battery light?
