Technical Rusty bits - suspension

[smahaley]

Thanks for those suggestions - I will attempt loosening / removal of the remains of the bushings - I like the idea of doing a little hammering and small grinding work to work it down a bit. Will see.
I did attempt to make the tool! I have been unable to source suitable pipe for the full aparatus, but I did manage to weld a nut onto a bolt and connect that to the end of the pivot and try some hammering.
Ultimately my pitiful welds gave up, and I went back to torching things….

 

[bugsymike]

Thanks for those suggestions - I will attempt loosening / removal of the remains of the bushings - I like the idea of doing a little hammering and small grinding work to work it down a bit. Will see.
I did attempt to make the tool! I have been unable to source suitable pipe for the full aparatus, but I did manage to weld a nut onto a bolt and connect that to the end of the pivot and try some hammering.
Ultimately my pitiful welds gave up, and I went back to torching things….

The hammering to swell the tube up, suggested by @124BC1 should do the job with a bit of luck. I always used that method with sleeved exhausts that wouldn't let go, using two hammers opposite each other, one to take the impact and the other giving the blows to expand the tube, just moving around to expand it evenly.

 

[124BC1]

-----------
Ultimately my pitiful welds gave up, ….

PENETRATION, that's the key!

You could also chamfer the 2 sides to be joined and run a number of weld beads, cleaning off any slag before laying down the next bead.
IIrc, you said you had gotten a MIG welder, a normal 'stick-welder' (nothing fancy) would easily and reliably weld a nut to a bolt head - providing the electric supply is up to powering the welder.

 

[124BC1]

I did attempt to make the tool! I have been unable to source suitable pipe for the full aparatus,

I previously suggested you might have a suitable dep socket. (obviously not).

Alternatively as regards suitable pipe?
If you can't find something suitable then make your own - get a length of pipe larger in diameter, measure the circumference of what you need, measure the circumference of what you now have, subtract one from the other ( I find subtracting the smaller from the larger works best ) then cut a strip of this size down the length of the to large pipe, squeeze the slit pipe into a new smaller diameter and weld the join.
E.g. if you need a pipe that is 2.5 in. in circumference (not diameter) and you only can find a pipe that is 3 in. in circumference, then cut a 1/2 in. wide strip (so 2 cuts) down the length of the larger pipe, squeeze closed and weld. This won't give you a perfectly round pipe but you make it round by supporting it on a heavy bar and tapping it with a hammer.

I've also used old bearing races, old spacers/sleeves, short lengths of exhaust pipe etc. In fact, I keep a go-to box of such saved items under the bench and can usually find something suitable in my stash (some people call me a Hoarder, but I'm not, really!!, I think they're just jealous of my 'collection' )

 

[Mike1alike]

PENETRATION, that's the key!

Wel... this is a family friendly forum, mate!

 

[smahaley]

I previously suggested you might have a suitable dep socket. (obviously not).

Alternatively as regards suitable pipe?
If you can't find something suitable then make your own - get a length of pipe larger in diameter, measure the circumference of what you need, measure the circumference of what you now have, subtract one from the other ( I find subtracting the smaller from the larger works best ) then cut a strip of this size down the length of the to large pipe, squeeze the slit pipe into a new smaller diameter and weld the join.
E.g. if you need a pipe that is 2.5 in. in circumference (not diameter) and you only can find a pipe that is 3 in. in circumference, then cut a 1/2 in. wide strip (so 2 cuts) down the length of the larger pipe, squeeze closed and weld. This won't give you a perfectly round pipe but you make it round by supporting it on a heavy bar and tapping it with a hammer.

I've also used old bearing races, old spacers/sleeves, short lengths of exhaust pipe etc. In fact, I keep a go-to box of such saved items under the bench and can usually find something suitable in my stash (some people call me a Hoarder, but I'm not, really!!, I think they're just jealous of my 'collection' )

Looking in my ‘shed garage’ one would easily suspect me to be a hoarder!

 

[124BC1]

Looking in my ‘shed garage’ one would easily suspect me to be a hoarder!

Don't worry, until your 'collectibles have taken over every room in your house (including the basement, if present, and the attic/loft) you're not a hoarder.

 

[bugsymike]

Don't worry, until your 'collectibles have taken over every room in your house (including the basement, if present, and the attic/loft) you're not a hoarder.

Too late for some of us.

 

[Slotman]

Don't worry, until your 'collectibles have taken over every room in your house (including the basement, if present, and the attic/loft) you're not a hoarder.

Uncanny...it's almost like you've been to my house!

 

[smahaley]

Updates! Got the bushings out, parts cleaned and POR-15 and new ball joints and (importantly) only one bushing pressed in on each of the lower control arms. I need to wait to procure replacement pivot bars before I finish that up (and the new crossmember for that matter).

 

[smahaley]

Updates! Got the bushings out, parts cleaned and POR-15 and new ball joints and (importantly) only one bushing pressed in on each of the lower control arms. I need to wait to procure replacement pivot bars before I finish that up (and the new crossmember for that matter).
View attachment 483382

Oh and I must thank you all again for your generosity of wisdom and humor. Or humour.


And.
I’m onto the rear end now…

Gobs of rust (thank you, Boston) and one shock mounting bolt that just wouldn’t come off nicely - but wire brush and cleaners and POR-15 and I may actually be able to reassemble this bit…

 

[bugsymike]

It's easier for us, you are doing the hard bit of fixing what has taken all those years to get as it was when you started the project.
Just think about the day you turn the key and drive down the road.

 

[Slotman]

On the por15 if you don't like the gloss there's a flat black finish as well...you've made great progress!

 

[smahaley]

On the por15 if you don't like the gloss there's a flat black finish as well...you've made great progress!

Thanks, @Slotman - yeah, and I just ordered a bunch of parts that I need to put the front and rear suspension back in the car, so I’m very excited about finishing that and the brakes and getting it back down on the ground for the grand reunion with the noisy bits….

 

[Slotman]

I'm with you on the brakes...it's what I have left, let's compare notes as we get the job done!

 

[smahaley]

I'm with you on the brakes...it's what I have left, let's compare notes as we get the job done!

Excellent: I’m beginning to ask around to see if I can find anyone who will ‘turn’ the rotors I have - which are very mildly pitted from sitting for a long time…

 

[124BC1]

Excellent: I’m beginning to ask around to see if I can find anyone who will ‘turn’ the rotors I have - which are very mildly pitted from sitting for a long time…

There's not a lot of 'meat' on the stock rotors so it might not be advisable to try 'turning' the rotors, going too thin can result in warping. New rotors start at c. $28 each, versus what would someone charge for turning them?
If you do opt for new rotors, (and there goes more 'hard-earned'), don't forget to check for parts bundles if also buying other brake parts. Of course, fitting new rotors will allow new brake pads to 'bed-in' faster/better (I'm assuming you intend to fit at least new pads?).
I'd recommend staying with stock rotors and pads, I don't think so-called 'uprated'/ performance /sports type rotors/pads are needed on a road car (when used 'normally'). Others may disagree...

Personally, assuming they're in reasonable condition, I'd just clean off the rust using a power wire brush - don't do as I did recently - try using a flap disc on an angle grinder > quick exit for 2 previously usable rotors. Any remaining surface imperfections/pitting will likely be removed by just driving the car.

I did remove quite bad rotor surface rusting (on a car left outdoors for c. 5 years!) by soaking them in vinegar for 3 days, modern rust dissolvers e.g. Evaporust or using 'electrolysis', would likely have been even better.

 

[Slotman]

I purchased 4 brand new ones 6 months ago from Vick for the tidy sum of $109. USD, hard to beat that ....but if the ones you have look good except for surface rust, as 124Bc1 stated it doesn't cost anything to give yours a good scrubbing...

 

[124BC1]

I purchased 4 brand new ones 6 months ago from Vick for the tidy sum of $109. USD, hard to beat that ....

^^ That sounds like a very good price so I checked the price of replacement Fiat brake discs over here to compare with your prices, here's a few examples I found :-

Of course, all car parts have to be imported here (Ireland) so shipping costs have to allowed for before deciding to order...

 

[Slotman]

That comes out to roughly $17.32 so that's definitely cheaper than here...interesting, mine were $27.25...mine are made in Italy but Vick had 2 "grades " of them and mine were the cheaper ones...still it seems like rotors are one of the reasonably priced items for a spider...