Technical Rusty bits - suspension

[smahaley]

Rusty challenges and questions!
1- lower A-arm and ball joint that seems to be riveted. Question: salvageable or buy a new a-arm with ball joint pre-installed? Is there a good method for removing / replacing the ball joint?

2 - steering knuckle bolt that is (so far) immovable even with nut removed. I’ve sprayed it, banged on it, pried on it, and put an air gun on it. Ugh! Help?

 

[CamperVanBeethoven]

Never done one of these - but might be worth bearing in mind there are much better penetrating oils than WD40. Diesel is very good too, I believe.

 

[Mike1alike]

The ball joint is riveted because it’s designed as part of the arm assembly.
Given the visible perforation and corrosion on the arm itself, replacing only the ball joint would not be safe or durable.
The correct repair is to replace the complete lower A-arm with ball joint pre-installed.
Attempting to drill out rivets and refit a joint into corroded metal risks movement or failure under load.

 

[CamperVanBeethoven]

The ball joint is riveted because it’s designed as part of the arm assembly.
Given the visible perforation and corrosion on the arm itself, replacing only the ball joint would not be safe or durable.
The correct repair is to replace the complete lower A-arm with ball joint pre-installed.
Attempting to drill out rivets and refit a joint into corroded metal risks movement or failure under load.

Are you sure there's "perforation" there?

 

[Mike1alike]

Are you sure there's "perforation" there?

Aye!
What would you call this?!

 

[smahaley]

Never done one of these - but might be worth bearing in mind there are much better penetrating oils than WD40. Diesel is very good too, I believe.

Thanks, yeah I was using PB Blaster…

 

[smahaley]

The ball joint is riveted because it’s designed as part of the arm assembly.
Given the visible perforation and corrosion on the arm itself, replacing only the ball joint would not be safe or durable.
The correct repair is to replace the complete lower A-arm with ball joint pre-installed.
Attempting to drill out rivets and refit a joint into corroded metal risks movement or failure under load.

Thank you, yes - it seems like I might need to do that - and return the new ball joints I ordered….

 

[smahaley]

Aye!
What would you call this?!

Yes - both sides have shot lower ball joints.

 

[smahaley]

Any counsel on freeing up the steering knuckle? Thanks, all!

 

[AndrejsLV]

For steering knuckle bolt removing use blowtorch. Same problem exists on the Lada, who have identical suspension. Why do you want to remove the knuckle?

 

[smahaley]

For steering knuckle bolt removing use blowtorch. Same problem exists on the Lada, who have identical suspension. Why do you want to remove the knuckle?

Thanks @AndrejsLV - I'm removing it to replace A-arms / ball joints on the suspension. I have a propane 'torch' - maybe it'll get hot enough....

 

[AndrejsLV]

If need replace only ball joints, it's possible to do this without steering knuckle removing. Use special tool, looks like a special form bolt with long nut. Install this between ball joints and screw nut out.

 

[smahaley]

If need replace only ball joints, it's possible to do this without steering knuckle removing. Use special tool, looks like a special form bolt with long nut. Install this between ball joints and screw nut out.View attachment 481549

Thank you Andrejs -

 

[Slotman]

On the steering knuckle, would using a pickle fork to separate it, be an option?

 

[smahaley]

On the steering knuckle, would using a pickle fork to separate it, be an option?

Hey @Slotman - no, the bolt head is on the outside of the knuckle, and flush to the surface, with no gap or angle with which to insert a tool of any size. I asked another mechanic friend and he said “heat!” So I’m going to try my torch on it whenever the weather improves….

 

[Slotman]

If your using propane, go buy a bottle of maps gas, it gets hotter...perhaps the you can drive it out?

 

[smahaley]

If your using propane, go buy a bottle of maps gas, it gets hotter...perhaps the you can drive it out?

Excellent suggestion thank you - I’ve looked it up and can get a can of that at my local Autozone…

 

[Slotman]

It will look like this, yellow bottle, and you may need the self igniting nozzle, I'm not sure if the propane nozzle works on maps or not, ask the parts store...it's worth it for a much hotter flame! Plz let us know your progress! Your almost there for that first test drive this spring! May the force be with you!

 

[smahaley]

It will look like this, yellow bottle, and you may need the self igniting nozzle, I'm not sure if the propane nozzle works on maps or not, ask the parts store...it's worth it for a much hotter flame! Plz let us know your progress! Your almost there for that first test drive this spring! May the force be with you!

Oh I wish!!!! I have to be realistic, though: our son’s are both getting married this year and we have 3 other weddings to attend, and one of those involves the month of September out of town….

However! The systems are coming together; fuel lines and tank are mostly in, new brake master and I’ve just refurbished the calipers, now the outer suspension, then I should be able to drop it and insert the noisy bits. Assuming I get the dash and electrical hooked up….

Thanks for you encouragement!

 

[CamperVanBeethoven]

Aye!
What would you call this?!

That's a tear in the rubber boot of the balljoint.