Rover 214 Cut Out

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Rover 214 Cut Out

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Hiya, Anyone give me any advice.

My other halfs Rover 214 [bubble shape] cut out approaching a roundabout this evening, its got fuel in, electrics seem ok but eventually batt went flat turning the engine over. There was no sound of breaking parts prior to this [cam belt going?]

I cant find my CD Manual for it, and cant get to the car until tomorrow PM [thats saturday 24th Nov]. I used my Cinq Sporting to tow the car to a safe place a couple of miles from the roundabout.

The starter turned engine over as it would normally. But just would not fire.


Just need some basic advice what to look for initially, the car just never goes wrong, so that in mind I dont know much about the engine. It is the 16v 1.4 unit with injection.

THANKS
 
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Try resetting the fuel cut off switch. May have been triggered by an extra harsh bump or something. I think its in the engine bay at the back right on the 214 bubble shape.

Cheers,
Alan
 
Spent the last couple of hours trying to start it where we left it last night.

Theres no problems with the fuel cut off.

Cam belt is ok!

I put an allen key into the spark plug lead and put it to the block, cranked engine and no spark - which makes me think is the coil, we had a problem starting it last week after driving the night before in heavy rain, it took a while but it did start in the end then, and has started since.

We have left it where it is for now, gonna go back with my Dad and his diesel cavalier and get it towed back home.

The coil looks a right tricky job!!

edit: I undid the pipe from the fuel filter and theres pressure there, also the fuel pump can be heard to prime itself upon turning the ignition on
 
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Spent the last couple of hours trying to start it where we left it last night.

Theres no problems with the fuel cut off.

Cam belt is ok!

I put an allen key into the spark plug lead and put it to the block, cranked engine and no spark - which makes me think is the coil, we had a problem starting it last week after driving the night before in heavy rain, it took a while but it did start in the end then, and has started since.

We have left it where it is for now, gonna go back with my Dad and his diesel cavalier and get it towed back home.

The coil looks a right tricky job!!

edit: I undid the pipe from the fuel filter and theres pressure there, also the fuel pump can be heard to prime itself upon turning the ignition on

Being a 214 it should be Rotor and distributer.... check that before looking at the ignition coil.... two screws hold it onto the right handside of the inlet cam... give the 4 connections a clean with some emerycloth of sandpaper.. and same for the end of the rotor... there is also a little brush which sits in the middle of the distributer cap.. sometimes the spring compresses and doesnt make a good contact with the rotor....

new rotor and dizzy... about 6 quid...

new ignition coil... about 45 quid and lots of cut knuckles:D:D

edit... check the king HT lead from the coil to dizzy.. they can play up too

Hope this helps(y)

had to replace mine last year... and on our coop... total bummer:(
 
Thanks for that.

I have recovered the car now thanks to a tow off my Dad, I bump started it no problem while on tow, the engine wont rev when you put your foot down its just dieing, but normal running its ok, its giving the same symptoms as a poor coil would, so am going to go with that.

I had checked all the dizzy and cap stuff, no problems there.

I am going to try and get the coil off from below, I will recover the lead too and check its condition while I am doing so.
 
Thanks for that.

I have recovered the car now thanks to a tow off my Dad, I bump started it no problem while on tow, the engine wont rev when you put your foot down its just dieing, but normal running its ok, its giving the same symptoms as a poor coil would, so am going to go with that.

I had checked all the dizzy and cap stuff, no problems there.

I am going to try and get the coil off from below, I will recover the lead too and check its condition while I am doing so.

From what i remember.. 3 bolts... holding it on... but a real pain in the rse trying to get to it...

(y)
 
Steely, yeah your right. Just found my CDROM Manual for the car and had a look.
Looking in the engine bay and behind the engine you would not know its even there, it looks impossible to get to from the top, if theres enough length in the wiring when I remove it I may see if I can mount it somewhere else, just a thought anyway.

So am getting earache now as to when I can fix it, my missus doesnt like driving my Cinq, she says the pedals are too close together..
 
Righto, can anyone help me diagnose my next problem.

I bought a new coil, fitted it and the engine still would not start, I wasnt convinced that the multiplug to the coil was fitted securely enough, but if you ever tried to fit one of these you would know its a one hand operation up the back of the engine.

I pulled off the HT lead to the coil, and checked it with a multimeter for continuation, it seemed to be open circuit, I didnt have any spare suitable leads so I pulled the longest one off my Cinq Sporting and connected that.

By this time the battery had gone flat, so noting the same spec of battery was on my cinq I swapped it over, the engine turned over fine now and after a fair amount of cranking it spluttered into life, it sounded like it was missing slightly and again, just like in my previous post it died when revved hard - which is my main concern.

I think I may have now started to go down the road of buying parts that I dont need, I think I bought a coil when it just needed a HT Lead to it, now I am going to buy a set of new plug leads and spark plugs cos the ones in it are worn, they are showing the colour of a perfectly working plug, but the centre electrodes are worn.

If I replace the plugs and leads, I really dont know where to go next, the dizzy cap and rotor are like new, all the fuel side of things seems ok, but where do I draw the line if it still isnt running right?


If it had been a good old fashioned carbed engine I would be 100% in getting it sorted, but the modern day wonders of a MFI engine with all its sensors and stuff is great while its all working, but now I dont want to be chasing my tail trying to fix it

HELP!!!
 
how long was the car not run for whilst waiting to get new coil fitted???

if you can get it to start let it idle till up to temp... then rev gradually up to about 4k then let your foot off... as it comes down to idle does it bounce at about 900rpm to about 1100 - 1300 then back down? usually shows idle control valve sticking if it doesnt do it..

sound like its over fueling... to rich.. try running with out the air filter on... see if it runs any better???


possibilty coolant temp sensor... but clasping as straws really

k's can be a total pain in the butt... but usually something daft...
 
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how long was the car not run for whilst waiting to get new coil fitted???
About 2 days

if you can get it to start let it idle till up to temp... then rev gradually up to about 4k then let your foot off... as it comes down to idle does it bounce at about 900rpm to about 1100 - 1300 then back down? usually shows idle control valve sticking if it doesnt do it..
When I got it running gradual revving was fine, it quickly warms up and appeared to idle correctly, no fluctuation when returing from being revved to normal idle.

sound like its over fueling... to rich.. try running with out the air filter on... see if it runs any better???
I had the top of the airbox off to check the dizzy, didnt make any difference


possibilty coolant temp sensor... but clasping as straws really

k's can be a total pain in the butt... but usually something daft...
yeah, s'pose any engine can be, I just dont want to be replacing stuff that doesnt need replacing, I have posted messages similar on the Rover forum, but they arent too helpful over the there TBO

GRRR!!
 
weak spark causing overfueling could be your problem so changing plugs and leads is a good idea.

since its a k series i'd do a compression test as well.
 
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