Technical Removing drivers seat

[Slotman]

Hi all! Is there a preferred tool, or method to remove a front seat? Using a conventional allen wrench due to tool height restrictions I managed to get the 2 front seat bolts out but then after cycling the seat all the way forward it looks tough to get to the 2 rear bolts...curious if anyone has a better way? Thanks!
Terry
P.s.now I have 3 out but the rear bolt next to the console is a bear..height restrictions make it tough to get a tool in or even see the bolt...next I will try shortening the height of my allen wrench...can't help wondering how the factory or dealerships did it...

 

[Nereidi]

I used an L shaped Allen wrench with a 4.5 inch leg and an 1 inch short leg. The short leg will fit in that space and I used the longer leg as the lever. Mine was very hard to turn. I had to clamp a vice grip to the effectively extend the lever arm and provide a greater turning force. Good luck

 

[Slotman]

Thank you for sharing your experience, that seems the same as the one I'm having...I think once I shorten my allen wrench all will be good...your post made me feel I'm doing it the correct/ same way as everyone else..

 

[124BC1]

The cars I worked on (mainly 124 Sport Coupe) had the seat rails secured with No. 3 pt Philips head screws!

I'd suggest you might try using an Allen key bit (these 1/4 " hex drive bits are only c. 1" high) as normally used with a screwdriver handle and turn it using a box-end wrench (combination spanner). (you might need to keep it pressed down in the allen socket by using a flat lever).

 

[Slotman]

Just wanted to follow up, got the seat out, the rear inside bolt next to the console is the hardest one to see, or get out, there's less than an inch height clearance for the allen wrench and after grinding mine shorter I got the last one out, should be just as much fun putting them back...now on to replacing the hard fuel line...

 

[Yadkin]

It sounds like your seat track isn't cycling all the way forward. Since you have it out, flip it upside down and spend some time with brake cleaner to get all the crud out of the tracks. Once clean and dry, use white lithium grease for smooth operation.

 

[Slotman]

Thanks! Flipping the seat over revealed you are correct...the inside track has 1 inch less movement than the other side and explains my struggling must be some little piece of something in there, now the reinstall will go easier
P.s. it was a lock washer that was jammed in the inside track...

 

[Yadkin]

Nice being on the inside track...

 

[Nereidi]

When you put your seats back, I figured out an easier way to get bolts back in. I put an Allen wrench bit (octagonal?) into a flexible drill shaft and it worked like a charm. See attached picture. Good luck if you haven't put the seats back yet.

 

[SpiderNut]

My journey for the drivers seat removal was to get access to the hard fuel lines that were leaking gas into the cabin, great design, what could go wrong? My seat was frozen in the rearward position without any access to the rear allen bolt, but I found a relatively easy solution.
1) remove the seat bottom upholstery, pull it up from the plastic lips
2) remove the screws holding the seat bottom frame to the seat rails, to do this cut slots with a cutoff disc on an angle grinder, and back the screws
out with a slot screwdriver
3) you can line up the rear allen bolt with a opening on the seat rail, remove the seat rails
4) use liberal amounts of Kroil or your favorite penetrating lubricant to get the rollers and ball bearings functioning again
5) my inside rail was very stubborn, it required an extra set of hands and a vice
6) hold the rail in the vice without crushing it, one person holds the adjuster handle in the open position, while one person uses a BFH and brass punch to
get it to move
7) time is your friend, soak the rails, use lithium grease

This does work! IYKYK

Bending new hard fuel lines was a cinch after getting access

Good Luck!

 

[Yadkin]

My journey for the drivers seat removal was to get access to the hard fuel lines that were leaking gas into the cabin, great design, what could go wrong? My seat was frozen in the rearward position without any access to the rear allen bolt, but I found a relatively easy solution.
1) remove the seat bottom upholstery, pull it up from the plastic lips
2) remove the screws holding the seat bottom frame to the seat rails, to do this cut slots with a cutoff disc on an angle grinder, and back the screws
out with a slot screwdriver
3) you can line up the rear allen bolt with a opening on the seat rail, remove the seat rails
4) use liberal amounts of Kroil or your favorite penetrating lubricant to get the rollers and ball bearings functioning again
5) my inside rail was very stubborn, it required an extra set of hands and a vice
6) hold the rail in the vice without crushing it, one person holds the adjuster handle in the open position, while one person uses a BFH and brass punch to
get it to move
7) time is your friend, soak the rails, use lithium grease

This does work! IYKYK

Bending new hard fuel lines was a cinch after getting access

Good Luck!

I don't know what year your car is, but the fuel, return and vent lines on my '74 are original and underneath, not inside the cabin.

 

[SpiderNut]

I don't know what year your car is, but the fuel, return and vent lines on my '74 are original and underneath, not inside the cabin.

1979 Spider 2000