My lads car is making a terrible chattering noise pulling off 1st 2nd gear so had it up on the ramps to inspect, my eyes where focused on the rear engine mount , i took the first bolt which has a nut that goes through the back off the gear box but cannot loosen the main sub frame bolt its solid, gave it wd oil ect i scared off snapping the bolt any tips out there ? cheers mark
General Rear engine mount (dogbone)
- Thread starter stirz
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General Rear engine mount (dogbone)
Oh god! dont tell me about that bolt. Guy at my college snapped it trying to get it out. Had to end up drilling the whole bolt out and re-tapping. Try using some heat. Or u may have to do the 6hour process of drilling from size 6-10. Then tapping new threads. The bolt from fiat i paid £4.95.
Cheers i thought it was too tight its going to snap !!!!! ill go to plan "B" .......do some thinking before i attack it again ,thanks for the reply
Just take your time the nut jobs at my college though" Get 2 people on the powerbar will remove it!" SNAP!. Try using some heat failing that. may just have to drill mit. Problem is the bolt is stupidly like 2-3inch long. Hense the reason for taking ages to drill. I bought a set of cobolt drill bits. After snapping 8 drill bits. 
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If the bolt uses a spot welded captive nut the welds could shear off inside a body box section and then its seriously in the poo.
If there is enough access space, grind off the bolt head and remove the engine mount leaving a bolt shaft sticking out. Now use a welding torch to really heat up the bolt and remove it with stillsons. Ones its been to cherry red (and cooled a bit) they will bite into it nicely rather than spin around.
If there is enough access space, grind off the bolt head and remove the engine mount leaving a bolt shaft sticking out. Now use a welding torch to really heat up the bolt and remove it with stillsons. Ones its been to cherry red (and cooled a bit) they will bite into it nicely rather than spin around.
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The oxy torch will also free up any corrosion. Failing that a butane torch and/or a "proper" penetrating oil (not WD40).
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could always drop the subframe down
or cut a hole in the floorpan and drill the old bolt out drop a new one down
or cut open the subframe at the point of shear and weld in a bolt facing downwards and then close up the section
lots of choices
you just have to think out of the box
or cut a hole in the floorpan and drill the old bolt out drop a new one down
or cut open the subframe at the point of shear and weld in a bolt facing downwards and then close up the section
lots of choices
you just have to think out of the box
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Easiest option is the grind the top off and heat method. If that fails go inside and cut access hole(s) into the body cavity. It will need a professional welding job and internal sealing when its done.
A butane torch will give enough heat but its a big flame so you risk burning the car floor. Use lots of heat shielding and a butane will be fine.
Another option is to drill the threads out of out a suitable size not and arc weld it to the bolt stub. The welding heat will clear the bolt threads and the nut gives you something to spanner with.
A butane torch will give enough heat but its a big flame so you risk burning the car floor. Use lots of heat shielding and a butane will be fine.
Another option is to drill the threads out of out a suitable size not and arc weld it to the bolt stub. The welding heat will clear the bolt threads and the nut gives you something to spanner with.
update .... rear bush /engine mount replaced and no change so im thinking drive shaft.....cant understand why the noise is mainly 1st 2nd gear, steering checked no cracking when full lock is applied any ideas out there ? cheers mark
Possibly the inner pot joint. More torque will put more stress on it (and unlike thre outer, corners are not much of an issue). But do check the other mounts.
just checked the other mounts they are ok , think its the passenger side drive shaft ......hand brake on 1st gear selected clutch released slightly heard a small click think its buggered
second update garage around the corner say "Gearbox pal " its common with puntos
garage around the corner say "Gearbox pal " its common with puntos- Joined
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Bet he sucked his teeth. Go elsewhere.
If it clicks when you move the clutch pedal its the clutch. But it could also be the gearbox input bearing which MUST always be checked when the clutch is done. ANY free play or roughness in the bearing it must be changed or you will soon be replacing an oiled-up clutch. However that bearing is unlikely to be making any noise you will easily detect.
If the bearing has broken up you must also get the box cleaned out as debris can get into the final drive gears = good chance of a terminal explosion inside the gearbox.
If it clicks when you move the clutch pedal its the clutch. But it could also be the gearbox input bearing which MUST always be checked when the clutch is done. ANY free play or roughness in the bearing it must be changed or you will soon be replacing an oiled-up clutch. However that bearing is unlikely to be making any noise you will easily detect.
If the bearing has broken up you must also get the box cleaned out as debris can get into the final drive gears = good chance of a terminal explosion inside the gearbox.
final update , as this might help someone else .......our problem was the gearbox after 45,000 miles had it reconditioned and refitted ,ok now never had a bad word to say about punto's but a gearbox after 45,000 is **** ! the comany that reconed the gearbox told me that the bearings that fiat use are cheap chinese rubbish ! not my words but replaced them with german, so fingers crossed should be ok now .......hope this helps
