Technical really stubborn multi air bleed or failed multi air?

[bugsymike]

yea even without the air brick in the compression reading was 0 i borescoped them again just to make sure and theres no witness marks. night now i dont have money for a leak down tester so ill just assume its good because all this happened while it was running and there was no chunks of metal on the oil. im going to see if i can cobble something together. on the borescope pictures theyre wet because while i sprayed in some oil to make sure it had some lubrication.

I understand, it gets to the point of, if it is worth the cost.
The basic leak tester can be made with a bit of airline hose and fittings, along with an old spark plug with the centre knocked out, as long as you have access to an air line.
Another thought, if brick out of the way presumably the inlet valves would be closed so it should be possible with a vacuum tester sealed against the inlet ports to see if the inlet valves are actually sealing in their valve seats.
Alternatively if you have proof that with engine off, the brick keeps the inlet valves shut you could test it with brick in place, although I am not 100% convinced that is the case.
I have not seen inside the "brick" arrangement, do you know if they use hydraulic cam follows as if so and the original incident squashed all the oil out of the followers even if the brick is working the followers may not be pumped up enough to work. I have heard of cases were new hydraulic cam followers have been fitted or old ones excessively washed out, where there is no compression for a long time until oil gets into them.
I have also seen one that was squeezed in a vice until it pushed all the oil out so it couldn't work, they have a ball valve that allows them to pump up and self adjust as you probably already know.

 

[beebe101]

yea right no im inbetween jobs and with little income this car feels like its bleeding my dry, it looks like i can modify my compression tester and use that as a leak down tester with all but one peice of what i have laying around. i dont know a whole lot about the bricks because here when the bricks act up the fix is normally to replace the whole engine.

 

[Zardo]

i dont know a whole lot about the bricks because here when the bricks act up the fix is normally to replace the whole engine.

When there's a problem with the multiair it usually throws codes. The timing of each actuator is closely monitored. What's not monitored is if the brick actually contains enough oil (for example, after an replacement or after the cars is not driven for 6 months). But cranking it intermittently and persistently usually solves that, after priming. For the car not to fire any cylinder at all because of the multiair, all the multiair actuators would have to fail at the same time (for example, if not enough oil in the brick, or no electrical connection and so on).

The fix of a broken multiair is to replace the multiair brick, not the engine. Replacing the multiair is costly enough (around 1000 - 1200 € for the brick + time), but that's still less than replacing the engine (except if you go for an engine out of a scraped car).

As mentioned above, I would have done some functional tests on the brick first before pulling it.



Multiecuscan, AlfaOBD or some other dedicated hardware might do it
(I use AlfaOBD on my Android, but I don't remember if I tested my Multiair with AlfaOBD before and/or after replacing it).

 

[beebe101]

i didnt have the computer to do a test like that in the car

 

[beebe101]

so all 4 solenoids acuate when given power gonna try and do a leak down test tomorrow

 

[bugsymike]

so all 4 solenoids acuate when given power gonna try and do a leak down test tomorrow

Before stripping all the way to do the "Leak Test", is it worth trying a vacuum test against the inlet ports using a Mityvac or similar.
This utube video isa a bit more fancy but similar principle.

 

[beebe101]

I'm not tearing it down that far for the leak test. the only thing that I'm removing is my coils and plugs, I'm still convinced that its most likely something in the multi air system but i still haven't found any smoking gun .

 

[beebe101]

so i got back from the hardware store and got everything together just to find that it was never going to work and im gonna put the leak diwn test on the side lines for right now because while i know it's good information i dont think bad rings are causing my problems especally because this all started when it was running

 

[beebe101]

one idea that i had was to hook up a pressurized oil container to the engine while cranking it in case its just not getting enough oil pressure

 

[bugsymike]

I'm not tearing it down that far for the leak test. the only thing that I'm removing is my coils and plugs, I'm still convinced that its most likely something in the multi air system but i still haven't found any smoking gun .

I wasn't suggesting that amount of stripping engine, merely trying to give you an idea of how a vacuum tester up against the inlet ports if accessible can be used, whilst engine still assembled in car.

 

[beebe101]

yea i guess im just tired with this car if it was driving shitty but actually getting compression i would. maybe its an ecm failure idk nothing makes sense with this and i cant find any posts that are like this

 

[beebe101]

so im working through everything and its getting the constant 5v going to it so next im gonna see if the ecu is triggering the solenoids