Question - How To: Clutch Bleed/Top up

[Paul B]

Hello,
Firstly apols, my forum login is playing up so I have to post 'anon'.

Problem:
Last night my '99 Brava 80sx's (manual) clutch locked up after 2nd gear change, no possible gear change after that and I struggled to get to my short destination (normal 'cold' 2nd gear start process to get me back home after RAC visit). It's gone worse over the past few months then finally went last night.

Seem's after reading this forum the problem is common.
Last night called out RAC, geezer told me problem namely; possible 'airblock' and got me home aok. Brava is now parked at home ready for help which I believe I'll be able to handle myself namely 'bleed' the airblock.

Q's:
1) Can someone explain in step-by step detail what I have to do.
2) what fluid do I top up? which one is the clutch 'hydraulic' under the bonnet, the brakes?

This site is great and very helpful but I can't find any FAQ on this process and not really one for going to a rip-off garage when I'm competent enough to do a little job myself. If its bigger job, then I'll get my Wigan mate Tom the mechanic to do it (who also told me the possible prob). Good on ya Tom, recommended!

Thanks in advance for help here,

PB

 

[big al]

howdy bud, well i will give the best way i can think off.
firstly the fluid is the same as the brakes,so make sure it is topped up.if the fluid is full things are ok, if the fluid has dropped then maybe the brakes need bleeding.
ok if the fluid level is ok say between min and max then get someone to pump your clutch pedal about 10 times and hold it down,your slave cylinder is on top of your gearbox just under the battery tray.with your pedal pushed down loosen the small bleed nipple on the cylinder,i think its about 10 or 11 mm spanner.air/fluid should come out off the nipple,repeat the routine until just fluid comes out.but important rule..keep your eye on the fluid level as you do this,you dont want it dropping down bellow min.when your slave cylinder is just releasing fluid from the nipple,you should notice a difference in the feel off the pedal.
if you get all the air out and the pedal is still bad then there may be a more pressing issue,i.e worn seal ,air lock,air leak..

i hope this info is off some use, i might do a guide on thingss like this 1 day,someone should..lol
let me know how you get on
cheers
big al

 

[Paul B]

Cheers Big Al (-:

Thank you, that's very helpful Big Al.
I'll reply with my experiences to share with others.

PB

 

[Paul B]

Clutch Slave cylinder - Q's

Big Al,
I had a look at this today, removed the battery but realised the battery tray also needs removing so I stopped at this point.
I noticed that pictures on eBay replacement Slave cylinders for my Brava (T reg) had a black cap which I presume you turn to release either air or fluid.
The one on my motor had no such black cap and as I could not see it as the battery tray was obscuring the unit, I felt down under the battery tray it, felt the screw value and presume it was some type of screw threaded item which could be undone with a screwdriver to the head of it, but can't because the tray is over the top of it?

I think I can do this again but am not too sure if removing the battery tray is aok to do, can yo utell me if it is safe to remove the battery tray, and if this is correct to fix the prob. Looking at the tray it's connected to the chassis by 5-6 hexagonal screws, I think if I remove the battery tray I can easily gain access to the slave cylinder much easier as otherwise it's not possible to get ones fingers under the tray.

Any advice is most welcome.

Paul B

 

[steve]

you have to remove the battery tray, I don't think it can be reached otherwise

The bit you are referring to is called the bleed screw (although sometimes called a bleed nipple which usually causes s******s on forums)

It is loosened with a small ring spanner (8mm?)if I remember correctly.

If you aren't using a bleed kit/pump you will need an able assistant to depress the clutch peddle (several hundred times if you're unlucky)
whilst you open and close the bleed screw.

Get your assistant to pump the peddle a few times and then hold the peddle to the floor.

slacken the Bleed screw, wait until the fluid has stopped moving, then close the bleed screw. Then tell your assistant to release the peddle and slowly pump once or twice before repeating the process.

 

[steve]

if its 10 or 11 mm i stand corrected. I just remember doing it so often to my bikes brakes all I can remember is the little bleed screws on them

 

[Griffy]

thing with me, my brake feel a bit spongy, AND my bite point on the clutch is quite high. Should i bleed mine?

 

[steve]

if the brake pedal is soft then = probably

 

[Paul B]

Clutch - cheers

Steve,
You're a star. give 5 stars to the man.
Thanks for the reply, tips and help, I'll get to it tomorrow a/noon now and will let the forum now my process here and how it faired so others can learn.
Cheers,
(-:

PB
Lancs.

 

[Griffy]

yes please do thankyou you let me know as i got same problem by looks of it, then ill do it saturday

 

[Paul B]

Clutch situation..... final

Apologies for any delay, flu, work, etc, etc.

I had a final look at my clutch pro last Weds. Removed battery, tray and there was the slave, easy really.
I pumped the pedal till the resevoir was just about to clear empty, closed bleed nipple and topped up res again.
Unfortunately, problem was the same so called out Tom the Mobile (from Wigan), problem was more severe, seems something such as the 'springs' or something have failed in the clutch, so it's a bigger job beyond me.
After an a/noon, should have it back in about an hour (20.30gmt).
Still, an experience. Thanks to everyone for there help.
(-:

PB

 

[Paul B]

Clutch done......WOW!

WOW!
Just got my Brava back tonight, What difference!!
Smooth and feels some much better.
It's not often I (if ever) compliment mechanics but Tom has been 5* superb, done in a day and for £220 which I think is spot on.
Anyone in the Wigan area, I highly recommend Tom's Mobile Supertune 07775 ******. See the Thomson if you need a guy. Give tha guy a star badge!
Can't wait to get out tomoz now.

PB

 

[Anonymous]

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I thought it's better than creating a new one.

When bleeding the clutch, are the brakes bled at the same time?
As I had a brake pipe burst, then replaced and the guy didn't bleed the brakes! So now they are quite spongy, and the clutch feels a little soft when the car is hot.

Thanks.

 

[big al]

bleed the brakes first,...if you cant stop,then there is no point trying to go!!.
front or rear pipe,..to bleed the rear the wheels must be underload,if you jack the rear end up,then put your axle stand under the trailing arm so the wheel thinks its still on the ground.when you lower the jack the wheel will go back into the arch.
otherwise the load valve will not open and you cannot bleed the rear brakes.. front are easy .
then bleed the clutch as i have posted above,#

thanks
big al