Technical Punto GT no injector pulse

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Technical Punto GT no injector pulse

I suppose it depend where the injectors get their signal from.:)
I think the main clue its the ecu at fault ( though im not 100% ) is the readings from the injector plug ground pins to earth. They should be open circuit as the ecu supplies the ground to each injector as an when needed. All 4 of mine are reading 32Kohms... What I could do with is someone with a gt be kind and do a quick resistance check on their injector plugs for me to compare 🤔🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Hi Francio , you sound pretty clued up working on the gt 👍🏻, I’d be happy to do a check for you but don’t have a tester , I could try and borrow one , what would I need to do to test them ?
Hi, Im a bit rusty as I no longer work on cars but I did 10 years as a Ferrari Maserati tech lol. I work on dirty trains now lol!

All you would need is a multimeter set to resistance.
Do this with ignition off.
Unplug each injector and measure from the plug female pin to the battery earth. I got 32 thousand ohms which is a lot but I think it should be an open circuit. Plug them all back in after of course.

Don't worry if you dont get a chance I have a few more checks to do tomorrow before I condemn the ECU 😅
 
Update!

I just unplugged the crank sensor and measured I had power to it, white wire 4.7volts, black is ground wire and red signal. Keyed off and tested the wiring again from that plug. Black to chassis 0.3 ohms so straight to ground no issue there. White to ground 65kohms so nice and high no issue there. Red ( signal wire ) to ground 0.5 ohms.......

Unplugged ecu and tried again now open circuit.

Ecu has shorted the signal wire to ground internally, no wonder the injectors aren't pulsing, speedo not moving under crank etc. Im amazed the plugs spark tbh lol unless the coil gets fed some other way I dunno 🤣... but all fingers are pointing to the ecu, harness is good everything seems ok apart from that and the high resistances read from injector plugs to ground with battery disconnected ( 32kohms ).

Now either swap another gt3 ecu in to test or just try and get it repaired and hope!
 
Can the ecu’s be repaired easily?
Where abouts are you located , I have a spare ecu .
There are places that can do it yes, but at the moment I haven't got found anyone that can deffo do it yet. Im in Essex mate, and you?
 
I’m in Derbyshire, a bit too far away , hope you can get it resolved , I’ve seen a video on YouTube from Autosportivo and they have had a Fiat coupe ecu repaired I think🤔
Would you be able to do a little test for me on your gt? Just crank the car and see if it does show a few hundred rpm whilst cranking like bugsymike said? I tried mine today and its as flat as a pancake 🥞 🫢..

Cheers
 
Wow! Never seen one react like that. Is OPs rec counter same type as yours?
Yea same car same variant, you had me questioning myself. Ive found a few issues pointing strongly at the ecu having some sort of internal failure.... Ill be sending it off for testing tomorrow ( £65 + vat ) and await the report. If it needs a rebuild which I suspect if will work out £420 total price 🥲
 
Hello all.

I last left this post with the ecu going off for testing at a specialist, they ran 2 test cycles on it both for 40 mins and it passed!...
So after a lot of trial and error I found the wiring loom had some insulation above the inlet manifold and the crank sensor shielded ground was hanging on by about 5 strands of wire when I really dug deep into the loom.

After repairing and refitting the loom the car tries to start but doesnt "catch" after maybe 5 or 6 attempts it ends up flooding the plugs. All 4 injectors are pulsing with a noid light, all 4 plugs have good spark but it seems to be overfuelling.

The mad thing is when the ecu came back from the specialist I set up an oscilliscope ( bought of amazon ) to read the crankshaft sensor signal, I got a nice clean square wave and the car tried to start!! 😱😱.. After a few tries it was successful and I let it run for about 45 mins, it would rev and boost up ok, key off and key on started on the button. Went off for half an hour came back and it wouldn't start again... 😭

Today I even checked the timing in the rain 🌧 to make sure the crank pulley hadn't slipped on a worn woodruff key but its spot on..

Any ideas would be much appreciated! Thanks
 

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Hello all.

I last left this post with the ecu going off for testing at a specialist, they ran 2 test cycles on it both for 40 mins and it passed!...
So after a lot of trial and error I found the wiring loom had some insulation above the inlet manifold and the crank sensor shielded ground was hanging on by about 5 strands of wire when I really dug deep into the loom.

After repairing and refitting the loom the car tries to start but doesnt "catch" after maybe 5 or 6 attempts it ends up flooding the plugs. All 4 injectors are pulsing with a noid light, all 4 plugs have good spark but it seems to be overfuelling.

The mad thing is when the ecu came back from the specialist I set up an oscilliscope ( bought of amazon ) to read the crankshaft sensor signal, I got a nice clean square wave and the car tried to start!! 😱😱.. After a few tries it was successful and I let it run for about 45 mins, it would rev and boost up ok, key off and key on started on the button. Went off for half an hour came back and it wouldn't start again... 😭

Today I even checked the timing in the rain 🌧 to make sure the crank pulley hadn't slipped on a worn woodruff key but its spot on..

Any ideas would be much appreciated! Thanks
When you mention "overfueling" have you checked the plugs to see if they are wet?
I have seen a Nissan Micra that started OK but if left for even a few minutes it woulsd flood and not start.
It turned out to be a known fault by Nissan that a new temp sensor and short wiring loom part fixed.
You could also start it by cranking with the fuel pump relay out to clear and then restart, once warm there was no issue.
 
Yes by pulling the plugs they are visibly wet and shiny. I dry them off with a small blow torch leave for 5 mins and then refit. It tries to start for a few cranks and then just cranks... 🙃😫😱

I threw on a spare inlet temp sensor I had ( old one ) but made no difference.

So I have spark, and fuel but they are not in sync with the mechanical timing it seems.

My friend suggested the phase sensor today could have lost the plot ( the thing near the coil with the shaft and the gear thst has to be timed up with the engine ).
So far Ive checked it was timed correctly but not sourced another to try....
 
Yes by pulling the plugs they are visibly wet and shiny. I dry them off with a small blow torch leave for 5 mins and then refit. It tries to start for a few cranks and then just cranks... 🙃😫😱

I threw on a spare inlet temp sensor I had ( old one ) but made no difference.

So I have spark, and fuel but they are not in sync with the mechanical timing it seems.

My friend suggested the phase sensor today could have lost the plot ( the thing near the coil with the shaft and the gear thst has to be timed up with the engine ).
So far Ive checked it was timed correctly but not sourced another to try....
So it does seem to be over fueling for whatever reason, even if injection was not in time, engine would still draw in the fuel and ignite it I would have thought. I am assuming the injection is into the inlet manifold area just before the ports in the engine?
It may be worth trying the trick of pulling the fuel pump relay and cranking engine until it clears the excess fuel and tries to start, then pop in relay and see what happens.:)
 
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