General Project Peterborough

[Liquid Knight]

It's probably just as well the stupid thing doesn't work. It's only a two gallon tank. In a Panda 4x4 that's about fifty maybe sixty miles between fill ups with a standard engine.

 

[Liquid Knight]

Sorry everyone but Project Peterborough is a dead stick.

Started, ran for a bit and as predicted...

...BARK!!!

Sod it I've had enough. The car was only going to last until the Tax ran out as it has more faults with it than the entire service history at Wimbledon.

Looking for a Blitz type buggy for the running gar next or I may just break it for parts.

As I mentioned before this has been the single most dangerous vehicle I have ever seen with a valid M.O.T!

 

[Liquid Knight]

Thank you all for all the tips, advice, encouragement and critique with this thread.

If I had put the time, money and effort into my Fantasia she'd be concourse now.

If anyone needs any parts let me know before the weighbridge beckons.

 

[Bartpanda]

Is it an original weber outlet spout, or your own manufaction? I ask, because in some other weber carb models the return spout has 6mm outside diameter, but about 1.5mm inside{ I think also the return line in panda fuel pump has small orifice inside the 6mm return spout}. I think that if you have 8mm fuel line into the carb and 6mm out/return without some orifice to about 2mm most of the fuel pushed to the carb will return to the tank and there will be not enough fuel in the float camber, the requisition for the fuel will be higher than the amount delivered and the engine will die out after few seconds of running

 

[Liquid Knight]

I had to make it myself but the manifold was this cars last straw.

 

[Bartpanda]

but the manifold was this cars last straw.

sad to hear that, it was one of my favourite threads on the forum, I like your skills and commitment with modifications put into this car, and all your other cars....Maby lock somewhere this annoying tin can for a week or two , have some beer, and later give it another "last chace"?

 

[Liquid Knight]

Beer and the Guff exhaust are on the cards.

 

[Liquid Knight]

Is it an original weber outlet spout, or your own manufaction? I ask, because in some other weber carb models the return spout has 6mm outside diameter, but about 1.5mm inside{ I think also the return line in panda fuel pump has small orifice inside the 6mm return spout}. I think that if you have 8mm fuel line into the carb and 6mm out/return without some orifice to about 2mm most of the fuel pushed to the carb will return to the tank and there will be not enough fuel in the float camber, the requisition for the fuel will be higher than the amount delivered and the engine will die out after few seconds of running

So I have another bolt and a 2mm hole should rectify the fuel starvation.

 

[Liquid Knight]

Thanks to bartanda from the Fiat Forum for rectifying my mistake.

Outlet part II

2mm hole (there lays my previous mistake)

Held together with a welding clamp and secured with black Q-Bond instead of silicone.

Now how about that beer?

 

[AndyPanda4x4]

So is the project back on again? You need to get her going!

 

[Liquid Knight]

If the revised outlet design works tomorrow yes-ish; maybe.

It's a little too late to fire the old bus up now with a cracked manifold. Besides as well as getting neighbor of the year and Q-Bond takes ten seconds to set I always leave it set overnight.


That was such a stupid schoolboy error it reminded me of my old Escort van. It had an XR3 carb' and because the fuel line was in a "T" piece the petrol followed the path with less resistance and just pumped around back to the tank. I imagine this is what's happen again. The difference being I bloody well did it. :devil:

If I'm doing the exhaust from bits and bobs how about a nice side winder?

 

[Liquid Knight]

Okay that didn't work. 2mm was too small and the engine kept flooding, 2.2mm was too much and the engine took longer to starve but it wasn't long enough to move the van under it's own steam.

Back to using the old pump as a regulator I think. If I can find another spare blanking bolt.

 

[Liquid Knight]

So back to the old set up...

...thanks to the Terrington Speedway Shop for clear fuel pipe.

Did it work?

No the carb' filled with petrol and flooded the engine. This whole time I thought it was something I had done to cause these problems when for this to happen either the floats are porous or the linkage is seized. For a carb' to overflow with fuel the float chamber can't be working properly. I don't have another carb' to take to bits (unless parts from a standard Panda carb' will fit) so what are my options?

965cc MkI Panda 4x4 carb' aka the Weber 32 IBA.

Even with Winter jets this won't be enough for the FrankenFiat engine.

Fiat X-1/9 carb' and manifold.

Unknown condition. It was bought for a 130 into a Lada conversion a friend was planning but he fitted a Zetec instead.

My old 1300 X-1/9 carb'.

Just a couple of adapter plates and a bit of fabrication to make it fit. It worked perfectly but would it be too rich for 1242cc version of FrankenFiat?

Guff II manifold and TDM carb's.

I'm not going to need a heater matrix if I'm going for a Moke/Scamp/Hustler/Buggy type thing. Will I?

I'm disappointed the car's still not running but I'm glad it's an issue with a part and not something I have done.

I'm off to look for a set of floats and service kit for a Golf 1.4 carb'.

If anyone wants the MkI carb' or X-1/9 ones let me know. I have more chance of winning the lottery than getting another MkI 4x4.

 

[Liquid Knight]

Even though ultimately the process has failed and I have have practically wasted another weekend off I'd like to doff my rhetorical cap to...

Tool of the Job!

...the one piece of equipment that has made the last couple of days a lot easier than it could have been.

Not the self-fulfilling prophecy...

Uhhhh! You're the tool!

This...

...deep 7mm socket on a stick has made all the jubilee clips a lot less of a faff than using a screw driver, slipping off the head (of the screw) and giving religious nutters a Jesus complex because you have holes in your hands. So the Tengtools 7mm screwdriver socketmebob you are...

Tool of the job!

... :worship:

 

[Bartpanda]

At first I had the same problem with flooded carb{when idling, under load it worked fine}} after fitting the ellectric pump, though it was designed to feed the carb, so low pressure pump{ about 0.4 -0.5 bar max}. I had to use one part from my junkpileofparts, it was fiat regata potentiometer for changing the intensity of the illumination of the dashboard, in panda it works as a fuel pressure regulator it worked fine.

 

[Liquid Knight]

I have a variable resister somewhere and I could easily mount it next to the switch.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a26c22cb6

I still think of of those would look pretty cool.

 

[Dragon Man]

or you could go PWM.. they work really nice. not good if you are a radio ham though, they make a lot of noise on the radio spectrum. though mine has cleared up now and does not make any noise

its what i used on my fan so i can select any speed. not just off, 1, and 2

 

[Liquid Knight]

Just a thought...

 

[Liquid Knight]

 

[Liquid Knight]

So if I want to use the Guff manifold and bike carb's I need to bin the heater matrix. If I bin the heater matrix (I'll have four in my shed) I won't need a windscreen. If I don't need a windscreen that Moke idea could be done a little bit better.

With box section re-enforcing the "A" pillars and sills with a diagonal or two going to a rear roll cage similar to Guff II's...

...simple body work following the original lines...

...and painted a nice color (BMW Dakar Yellow perhaps).

A few choice options for driving anywhere near Peterborough...

...could come in handy.

Best of all I'll retain the original floor and 60% of the bodywork so no IVA/SVA! :slayer: