Bartpanda
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shorthand I hope? Skoda Felicia..... {rear springs to put them as the}..... front springs..... in your bear?
Front ones from skoda are usless in our piggybanks on 4 wheels....
General Project Peterborough
- Thread starter Liquid Knight
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General Project Peterborough
shorthand I hope? Skoda Felicia..... {rear springs to put them as the}..... front springs..... in your bear?
Front ones from skoda are usless in our piggybanks on 4 wheels....
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shorthand I hope? Skoda Felicia..... {rear springs to put them as the}..... front springs..... in your bear?
Oh well.
Spare springs for dads Skoda then.
You'll also need the 127 drive shaft flange if you go down the felicia springs route, and the hub mounting plate drilling :thumbup:
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I have enough to do already.
I had a bit of an issue with the exhaust. Due to the 1242 block being slightly taller.
The down pipe is close to the block. Barely a couple of millimeters space.
Sadly where the down pipe meets the centre section the flange made contact with the gear linkage.
Marked up, cut off...
...welded together, ground flat and flapped tidy so I could...
...weld on a strap to re-enforce the join and ensure a decent lap weld would make it air tight.
Now free and clear of the sector linkage and graduated downward slightly to clear the prop'shaft better.
A couple of other jobs that needed doing.
Found a new home for the fuel pump, plumbed it all in and I'll wire it up tomorrow.
I had a bit of an issue with the exhaust. Due to the 1242 block being slightly taller.
The down pipe is close to the block. Barely a couple of millimeters space.
Sadly where the down pipe meets the centre section the flange made contact with the gear linkage.
Marked up, cut off...
...welded together, ground flat and flapped tidy so I could...
...weld on a strap to re-enforce the join and ensure a decent lap weld would make it air tight.
Now free and clear of the sector linkage and graduated downward slightly to clear the prop'shaft better.
A couple of other jobs that needed doing.
Found a new home for the fuel pump, plumbed it all in and I'll wire it up tomorrow.
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So new oil in the engine, water in the coolant system, I'll top the gearbox up later, battery connected, spark plugs out, turned the engine over until it sounded right (dry engine so it took a few turns for the oil and water to circulate), no leaks, spark plugs back in place, turn over, a little jitterish and the battery went flat.
Turn over with jump leads and a spare battery this time with the fuel pump ticking away. Hmmmm, either the fuel pump isn't up to the task (as predicted) or the car is empty.
Battery on charge, petrol can in the spare car and I'm off to buy some bits.
Turn over with jump leads and a spare battery this time with the fuel pump ticking away. Hmmmm, either the fuel pump isn't up to the task (as predicted) or the car is empty.
Battery on charge, petrol can in the spare car and I'm off to buy some bits.
Bartpanda
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Without the flange between the front pipe and the rest of the exhaust there is a big risk of damaging the exhaust manifold when touching/hitting the ground with the exhaust while offroading, or just by the vibration/tension .The flange with springs and spherical wire gasket allows for some movement between the pieces of the exhaust. I once hit the ground with rear muffler and damaged the front cast ex. manifold. Your downpipe is a 4x4 unit or some uno punto itp? Idid not have this problem with gear linkage on my 1200 fire.
Your downpipe is a 4x4 unit or some uno punto itp? Idid not have this problem with gear linkage on my 1200 fire.
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Standard Panda manifold and downpipe the only thing I changed was the engine.
I have no idea why the exhaust was fouling the gear linkage I guessed it was due to the block being taller.
Anyway...
She's ALIVE!!! :slayer:
...and the fuel pump is dead.
I guess I should have rigged it up separately instead of wiring it into the coil live.
Sounded an absolute beast for the ten seconds or so she was running.
I have no idea why the exhaust was fouling the gear linkage I guessed it was due to the block being taller.
Anyway...
She's ALIVE!!! :slayer:
...and the fuel pump is dead.
I guess I should have rigged it up separately instead of wiring it into the coil live.
Sounded an absolute beast for the ten seconds or so she was running.
Bartpanda
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Congrats! always nice to hear the first "wroooo" of the new project under the hood
Check for clearance between the downpipe and longer driveshaft , jack the car, front driver side{your driver side} and turn the wheel, with my 2cm front susp lift and higher block 1242ccm under the hood there was a driveshaft lying/rubbing on the downpipe when suspension was released{jacked front}. I've made a spacer{about 15mm} from the old downpipe between the exhaust manifold and the 4x4 downpipe, plus one new gasket{one gasket over and one under the spacer} It lowered the downpipe and made necessary clearance for the driveshaft. Also the three screws locating the manifold to the downpipe I have changed to longer ones to accommodate the spacer.
Check for clearance between the downpipe and longer driveshaft , jack the car, front driver side{your driver side
} and turn the wheel, with my 2cm front susp lift and higher block 1242ccm under the hood there was a driveshaft lying/rubbing on the downpipe when suspension was released{jacked front}. I've made a spacer{about 15mm} from the old downpipe between the exhaust manifold and the 4x4 downpipe, plus one new gasket{one gasket over and one under the spacer} It lowered the downpipe and made necessary clearance for the driveshaft. Also the three screws locating the manifold to the downpipe I have changed to longer ones to accommodate the spacer.
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I was going to cut the down pipe and weld a few centimeters of spare pipe in there.
Manifold adapter plates sound like a bit of a faff in comparison. I've made a few to fit turbos or bigger turbos but I can use the Punto 75 manifold I have in my shed with an adapter to fit the 4x4 down pipe with a bit of flexipipe between to act as a shock absorber.
Manifold adapter plates sound like a bit of a faff in comparison. I've made a few to fit turbos or bigger turbos but I can use the Punto 75 manifold I have in my shed with an adapter to fit the 4x4 down pipe with a bit of flexipipe between to act as a shock absorber.
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Instead of using the old fuel pump as a regulator I was thinking of finding a union for this...
...and while I was replumbing the fuel lines earlier I found this...
...it looks like a fuel filter and in a way I guess it is. The main body was filled with lead. One of the previous owners was concerned about the end of four star so rather than use an lrp additive or spend a massive £16 on a set of valves (that aren't needed anyway) they believed he hype and bought the lead filter tube thingy. I'll check the rest of the car for FSE boost valves, turbine exhaust tubes and MAF sensor resisters later.
...and while I was replumbing the fuel lines earlier I found this...
...it looks like a fuel filter and in a way I guess it is. The main body was filled with lead. One of the previous owners was concerned about the end of four star so rather than use an lrp additive or spend a massive £16 on a set of valves (that aren't needed anyway) they believed he hype and bought the lead filter tube thingy. I'll check the rest of the car for FSE boost valves, turbine exhaust tubes and MAF sensor resisters later.
a lead filter..adder.. thingy.. wow i have never seen anything like that!
i have a few engines that could do with such a thing... if it was to work that is.
mind you, most of the old engines i have were meant to run on 2 star.
i have a few engines that could do with such a thing... if it was to work that is.
mind you, most of the old engines i have were meant to run on 2 star.
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Snake oil mate. The benefits of fitting one of these is mythical.
magnets on the fuel line haha
its a great feeling when you hear that engine run for the first time
i had to start fallout up to get under it to sweep up, took some convincing but it ran.. not easy without a throttle hahaha
its a great feeling when you hear that engine run for the first time
i had to start fallout up to get under it to sweep up, took some convincing but it ran.. not easy without a throttle hahaha
Bartpanda
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Hah lead filter.... right.... In Poland there was a guy who was selling through allegro.pl about a pound of lead balls, different sizes from 10 to 20mm in a wire basket for about 15 pounds for one "magic artifact" You just put the artifact into the tank and after about 1200 years thanks to slow diffusion between lead and fuel particles you have a full tank of magically transfered unleaded to leaded fuel. Bravo! I'll take two....:worship:
Now again abot the exhaust, I did dot notice if your 1200 has this element{ marked with arrow on the picture of my fiat regata engine}, It helps to save the ex manifold and downpipe from tensions vibrations and other bad accidents during offroading. It is also on panda 4x4 but will need a bit mod to use it with 1200. but still it is a good idea to have one.
You just put the artifact into the tank and after about 1200 years thanks to slow diffusion between lead and fuel particles you have a full tank of magically transfered unleaded to leaded fuel. Bravo! I'll take two....:worship:Now again abot the exhaust, I did dot notice if your 1200 has this element{ marked with arrow on the picture of my fiat regata engine}, It helps to save the ex manifold and downpipe from tensions vibrations and other bad accidents during offroading. It is also on panda 4x4 but will need a bit mod to use it with 1200. but still it is a good idea to have one.
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The 999 engine had one of those but it wasn't attached to the exhaust at all.
I guess I'll have to beef up the sump guard to protect the exhaust.
I guess I'll have to beef up the sump guard to protect the exhaust.
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Dropped the tank and quite annoyingly the new one is a fuel injection one from Germany.
:bang:
Oh well guess I've got some welding to do.
While I cut and shut the new tank I'll weld on a bracket to mount the fuel pump as well.
:bang:
Oh well guess I've got some welding to do.
While I cut and shut the new tank I'll weld on a bracket to mount the fuel pump as well.
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Yesterday I found out that the fuel tank supplied was...
...the wrong bloody one!
No problem I thought, just cut the neck of the old tank and weld it to the new one.
Nope the fuel injection pump and sender unit is mounted between two and three centimeters lower and...
..the carb' sender unit sits too high on the new tank.
Plan B. If the new tank came with a gasket I'd be able to make an adapter plate to fit the new take with a neck for the carb' sender unit to sit properly.
It didn't.
Plan C. Weld the neck on.
First I needed to remove the carb' sender unit mounting plate. The best way to do this is to cover the spouts and holes...
...fill the tank with water...
...and use a low speed grinder to cut the mount out.
Trimmed cleaned and flapped ready to use.
Next I needed to make a plate for the new tank...
...mark where the hole needed to be for the neck...
...cut it out and clean it ready to weld.
An inch of plate was formed around the hole and seam welded into place...
...so now the carb' sender unit fits perfectly.
Wouldn't it have been easier to cut repair panels from the new tank to fix the old one?
No...
...it was mostly fiberglass filler, black silicone and waxoil. :bang:
On a lighter note.
These...
...antique 40/45W bulbs have been replaced with...
...these 55/60W P45/H4 conversion bulbs so hopefully my headlights will be brighter than a full Moon when the van is back on the road.
Now I'm off to finish the tank and weld a bracket to it for the new fuel pump.
...the wrong bloody one!
No problem I thought, just cut the neck of the old tank and weld it to the new one.
Nope the fuel injection pump and sender unit is mounted between two and three centimeters lower and...
..the carb' sender unit sits too high on the new tank.
Plan B. If the new tank came with a gasket I'd be able to make an adapter plate to fit the new take with a neck for the carb' sender unit to sit properly.
It didn't.
Plan C. Weld the neck on.
First I needed to remove the carb' sender unit mounting plate. The best way to do this is to cover the spouts and holes...
...fill the tank with water...
...and use a low speed grinder to cut the mount out.
Trimmed cleaned and flapped ready to use.
Next I needed to make a plate for the new tank...
...mark where the hole needed to be for the neck...
...cut it out and clean it ready to weld.
An inch of plate was formed around the hole and seam welded into place...
...so now the carb' sender unit fits perfectly.
Wouldn't it have been easier to cut repair panels from the new tank to fix the old one?
No...
...it was mostly fiberglass filler, black silicone and waxoil. :bang:
On a lighter note.
These...
...antique 40/45W bulbs have been replaced with...
...these 55/60W P45/H4 conversion bulbs so hopefully my headlights will be brighter than a full Moon when the van is back on the road.
Now I'm off to finish the tank and weld a bracket to it for the new fuel pump.
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So today I planned to weld the neck in place, fill the holes in the top of the tank and make a mounting for the fuel pump.
That didn't take as long as I expected so I cleaned the surface up a bit, masked up the three holes...
...and it's hanging up in my shed...
...waiting for the Hammerite to dry.
Some other vital components arrived today. More about those later.
That didn't take as long as I expected so I cleaned the surface up a bit, masked up the three holes...
...and it's hanging up in my shed...
...waiting for the Hammerite to dry.
Some other vital components arrived today. More about those later.
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A spot of plumbing today.
As well as the filter on the end of the pick up pipe I've put one inline before the pump for added security.
According to the internet you need to spend up to £12.95 on rubber mounts for the pump.
Not if you have some old bicycle tube and Duct-Tape handy. Fold a length of tube up so it makes a square block, tape to the mounting plate and bolt the pump down on to the pad.
As well as the filter on the end of the pick up pipe I've put one inline before the pump for added security.
According to the internet you need to spend up to £12.95 on rubber mounts for the pump.
Not if you have some old bicycle tube and Duct-Tape handy. Fold a length of tube up so it makes a square block, tape to the mounting plate and bolt the pump down on to the pad.
Good work on the mods but I don't think your rubber pad will be isolating much vibration. Pretty minor trouble for a facet pump to be fair but to isolate it correctly you really need rubber material between the head of the bolt and the pump(and a rubber collar between the bolt shaft and the flange). All the vibration will just run through the bolt in your configuration. Also if you over tighten the bolt you are likely to over compress the rubber so it becomes too rigid to isolate.
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