General Project Peterborough

[Liquid Knight]

The clutch cable arrived today. So hopefully I can get the project moving tomorrow.

Moving next to my shed so I can work on it out of the way, make a lean to and stay dry.

 

[homeward]

Thought this might appeal to you and Alixcompo...!

 

[Liquid Knight]

Dacia? I guess the underdog stakes are in their favor. I chose a more compact 50 cal' for my roof so the car won't tip over as easily. That doesn't look very stable in a straight line.

Well that was a damn sight more complicated than it needed to be. But I have solved a mystery that has plagued mankind for centuries.

What happens to odd socks?

They end up the same place as clutch cable spring clips.

Anyway another top tip for you...

...to keep your cables free for longer run a little bit of bike chain lube down the cable by filling the cap and the end and letting it seep through. I will take a few minutes but your cable could last a couple of years longer as a result.

I'm glad the carb's and bits weren't on as it the clip that holds the cable to the bulkhead would have been inaccessible, the coil bolts would have been a lot trickier to get to and the clamp at the bottom would have been a pain in the cheeks.

I had to use the cable spring clip from Guff II after an hour of searching with various lights, yoga positions and magnets (funny I didn't think it was a Friday) it's okay though as Guff may only need two pedals if my plan for that car comes together.

 

[Liquid Knight]

Mocked up the throttle cable to the carb's while they're off and I only have an inch of cable travel from fully closed to fully open.



I'll measure the pedal tomorrow and do so trigonometry but my guess is I'm going to have the most sensitive accelerator on the planet.

 

[Alixcompo]

Thought this might appeal to you and @Alixcompo...!

Ah yes. It is David Camerons new imigration device. You just talk into the pointy thing and if you aren't speaking English then....................

 

[firstcar-Y10]

I'll measure the pedal tomorrow and do so trigonometry but my guess is I'm going to have the most sensitive accelerator on the planet.

Wow, like a 'sport' button?

 

[Liquid Knight]

Sadly not. The original cable only moves about an inch and a half (I couldn't wait until the morning).

 

[Liquid Knight]

I've made a few revisions the Panda Moke idea.

Rather than try to fabricate a curved top bar straight pieces and a couple of 60' bends would be easier (as I don't have access to a roll cage sized pipe bender - Dear Santa...).

Also lighter structural work around the doors using the smaller box section I bought by mistake. I bought a length of 3x2 cm instead of 3x2 inch.

Instead of using straight bar and bends on the rear hoop (like I did with Guff II) I like the look of this...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261347632331&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123

...I also have a decision to make.

1/ Replace the original tail light cluster.
2/ Bumper mount tail lights with a smooth rear panel (a bit like a Land Rover Discovery or Freelander).
3/ Fiat Coupe' tail lights flushed into the rear panel.
4/ Fiat Coupe' tail lights flushed into the bumper.

 

[Liquid Knight]

This arrived while I was out...

...best of all it's goes to "11"

Just in case I get bored and remember how good Mikuni's are in a blow through arrangement. :devil:

 

[Liquid Knight]

So the regulator did a grand total of geof all!
Still I tried it inline at the pump first before drilling another hole in my dash for it.

The cable came with a little clamp in a baggie...

...I decided to use a wire clamp instead as two screws are better than one and the block is big enough to hold with a pair of pliers to tighten the screws against.

All done...

...and ready for a spin up the road.

Literally.

Bare in mind this set up was originally destined for a quarter mile car (Guff II) the engine was very boggy up to 2,500rpm and then took off like a scalded cat. Brilliant!
Great fun, but not ideal for the road (my neighbors appreciated it) and definitely next to useless off road.

I was that distracted holding on I forgot to prime the carb's and she cut out on my driveway.

Still sounded superb, went like a rocket and I'm sure without the extra weight of the rear axle and transfer box the standard two wheel drive Panda will be even quicker with these bits under the bonnet.

Tool of the job today goes to this...

...my antique breadknife. I can shave with the thing and as it's proper Shefield Steel it cuts everything with ease. Radiator hose, fuel lines, connector blocks, cable covers and even my sandwiches.

Okay so I'm back to the drawing board for fuel delivery and I was thinking of my X-1/9 Weber. It should be jetted for the engine and it should be simple to plumb in. Also the nature of the beast should be more torque bias ideal for off road and practical for road use. The only problem I foresee is the lack of vacuum advance. So I have an Uno inlet manifold (with the four threaded holes) and the servo attachment from a Cinquecento Sporting.

It took a little convincing to make it fit...

...but it should work-ish in theory.

 

[Bartpanda]

x1/9 carb, hmm I am going to use regata 100 or ritmo 85 carb{also dmtr weber family} on my stage 2 1242ccm pandabella engine. Already found some hints on italian forum, the visualisation of how we are going to do it{but in my oppinion the bottom hole in the adapter plate must be bigger}

 

[Liquid Knight]

That's perfect!

Can you ask them to make another one?

I was going to measure the length of the original manifold and use that as a guide as to how tall the adapter needed to be. One and four are roughly the same but three and two are a little bit longer. Hopefully the narrower bore size will make up the difference.

 

[Bartpanda]

Use the spi manifold, not carb one for the double weber mod, spi one is equall length for all 4 cylinders, carbed one not.And has bigger bores inside.

http://allegro.pl/kolektor-ssacy-seicento-cinquecento-1-1-i3777495760.html

 

[Liquid Knight]

I've got a few of those.

Can always drill and tap the two extra holes.

 

[Liquid Knight]

x1/9 carb, hmm I am going to use regata 100 or ritmo 85 carb{also dmtr weber family} on my stage 2 1242ccm pandabella engine. Already found some hints on italian forum, the visualisation of how we are going to do it{but in my oppinion the bottom hole in the adapter plate must be bigger}

Does it have to be billet? I've found a block of Polycarbonate that would be easier to machine at home.

 

[kolza]

Does it have to be billet? I've found a block of Polycarbonate that would be easier to machine at home.

Depends on the spec of that PC? Most PC have melting point at 120*C.

 

[firstcar-Y10]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/S2025-Top...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f2d266e7a
Tried this and it does fit the Panda manifold. Finish up with the carb at a strange angle though. Top is right for a weber 28/36 or similar. (I was trying a Jikov Skoda 130 carb)

 

[Bartpanda]

thick nylon or polycarbonate will be too good insulator, the carb can freeze

I had lancia y10 1.0 fire engine in my fiat 127 mk1 some time ago, it was 1.0 with ecobox and with some strange inlet manifold, strange, because it was not "warmed" by the liquid, but there was an ellectric "hedgehog", small heater in the manifold,Once heaters cable failed and the carb freezed to stone, it was late autumn but still a bit above 0degrees celsius temperature ,and damp weather.

 

[Liquid Knight]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/S2025-Top...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f2d266e7a
Tried this and it does fit the Panda manifold. Finish up with the carb at a strange angle though. Top is right for a weber 28/36 or similar. (I was trying a Jikov Skoda 130 carb)

I could chop the base off and re-weld it at the right angle.

 

[Liquid Knight]

So it has been done already.