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Technical Project Paolo

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Technical Project Paolo

Just bought some new steel wheels for Paolo and have got 4 new tyres to fit so I would like to fit 4 new inner tubes as well. Can someone point me in the right direction where I can find the correct inner tubes please? Whenever I put 12 inch inner tubes in a search I get motorbike or cycle tubes come up.
 
Look what I made....

SANY1709.JPG
 
Paolo66 said:
Just bought some new steel wheels for Paolo and have got 4 new tyres to fit so I would like to fit 4 new inner tubes as well. Can someone point me in the right direction where I can find the correct inner tubes please? Whenever I put 12 inch inner tubes in a search I get motorbike or cycle tubes come up.
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Damian, if all else fails give Longstone Tyres a try for the inner tubes, they've never let me down when trying to find the obscure parts.

HTH
 
I have everything fitted now and just need to add fuel and start it up. The exhaust doesnt line up though. I have a 126 exhaust and brackets but I had to space the brackets out to get it to fit. Its like I need to get an oxyacetaline torch on the pipes and then bend them where I want them.
 
Paolo66 said:
I have everything fitted now and just need to add fuel and start it up. The exhaust doesnt line up though. I have a 126 exhaust and brackets but I had to space the brackets out to get it to fit. Its like I need to get an oxyacetaline torch on the pipes and then bend them where I want them.
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The mounts are different but not too expensive from axel gerstl
 
Bugger! Put some fuel in and went to start it. Left the plugs out as I wanted to just see if it would turn over and to pump the fuel to the carb. First turn of the key the starter energised but the pinion didnt engage the flywheel. Second turn of the key the pinion engaged and the flywheel spun. Third turn of the key the flywheel kept spinning even when I turned the key to off! Had to disconnect the battery positive to stop it turning. Tried it all again with the same result. Electrics are not my thing so I am stumped. Dodgy starter? Dodgy ignition switch? Dodgy earth? Dodgy mechanic? Also after turning the engine over as much as I have the fuel filter was empty so I guess I also have a dodgy fuel pump?
 
Paolo66 said:
Bugger! Put some fuel in and went to start it. Left the plugs out as I wanted to just see if it would turn over and to pump the fuel to the carb. First turn of the key the starter energised but the pinion didnt engage the flywheel. Second turn of the key the pinion engaged and the flywheel spun. Third turn of the key the flywheel kept spinning even when I turned the key to off! Had to disconnect the battery positive to stop it turning. Tried it all again with the same result. Electrics are not my thing so I am stumped. Dodgy starter? Dodgy ignition switch? Dodgy earth? Dodgy mechanic? Also after turning the engine over as much as I have the fuel filter was empty so I guess I also have a dodgy fuel pump?
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Are you starting the car with an ignition switch or the lever between the seats Damian?
 
Paolo66 said:
Its a 650 engine with an ignition switch electric starter
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Ok so the starter has the solenoid. You need to check whether the 12v that goes to the solenoid is getting switched off when the key is returned back to its off position, which it doesn't sound like it is. Where is the ignition switch in the middle of the dash?
 
Vitesse said:
Ok so the starter has the solenoid. You need to check whether the 12v that goes to the solenoid is getting switched off when the key is returned back to its off position, which it doesn't sound like it is. Where is the ignition switch in the middle of the dash?
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Yes its in the middle
 
It's the terminal on the left in the picture below on the back of the solenoid. With the silver nut on. That's where your 12v comes from the ignition switch. Measure it between the starter casing and that terminal. It should be 0v's with ignition off and 12v when you turn it fully to the right to the start the car. Once the switch returns back to the neutral position but is still on it should return to 0v's.
 

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I agree - start by checking the switch to give +12V to solenoid drops off as you release the key from the spring return section of the keyswitch.
Multimeter black probe to a good earth and the red probe to the small guage wire on the starter - get an assitant to twist key to position 1 - should have no voltage
Turn key to spring loaded position and hold - should have +12V
Release key back to position 1 - voltage should be 0V
 
Vitesse said:
It's the terminal on the left in the picture below on the back of the solenoid. With the silver nut on. That's where your 12v comes from the ignition switch. Measure it between the starter casing and that terminal. It should be 0v's with ignition off and 12v when you turn it fully to the right to the start the car. Once the switch returns back to the neutral position but is still on it should return to 0v's.
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I thought that should always be 12v as that is where you connect the positive battery terminal?
 
Does the ignition switch spring back? You should have the off position at 12 o'clock where you can pull the key out. One turn anti clock to parking lights where you can pull the key out. Then one turn clockwise which turns on all the ignition lights etc, then another turn clockwise which should be sprung which is where you turn the starter over. I've got an original 850 ignition switch here and the springy bit is very sprung but this is a brand new switch.
 
Paolo66 said:
I thought that should always be 12v as that is where you connect the positive battery terminal?
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You are right I am giving you "Fake News"!

There is a spade connector between the two terminals on the solenoid that is the 12v from the ignition switch. Try starting it again and if the starter still spins even after the key has been released see if you can reach in and pull the spade connector off and see if it stops it spinning. Then you will know if the fault is with the switch or starter getting jammed.
 

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