Technical Problem in the rear.

[Fiatgirl2010]

Hello, first time here x

My 500 2010 Pop passed her mot, with a few advisories...the most worrying is requires a new rear axle.

The other advisorys were two new anti roll bar joints and a Mcapherson strut..?

The axle is bad right? As in expensive?

Thanks

 

[jrkitching]

The axle is bad right? As in expensive?

Not as bad as you might think, because aftermarket axles can be had for a reasonable price.

https://www.imaxle.co.uk/new-fiat-500-axle

The total cost of the job will basically come down to how much you can do for yourself. If you decide to have a go, there's plenty of folks on the forum who've done the same and can help advise you if you get stuck with anything.

The degree of difficulty will largely be down to how many rusty bolts & brake fittings have to be dealt with. If the axle is corroded enough to need replacement, the bolted on bits are likely to be well rusted in place.

 

[Fiatgirl2010]

Not as bad as you might think, because aftermarket axles can be had for a reasonable price.

https://www.imaxle.co.uk/new-fiat-500-axle

The total cost of the job will basically come down to how much you can do for yourself. If you decide to have a go, there's plenty of folks on the forum who've done the same and can help advise you if you get stuck with anything.

The degree of difficulty will largely be down to how many rusty bolts & brake fittings have to be dealt with. If the axle is corroded enough to need replacement, the bolted on bits are likely to be well rusted in place.

It will all have to be done with the garage unfortunately.

 

[jrkitching]

It will all have to be done with the garage unfortunately.

Now that more folks are keeping older cars for longer, labour rates have firmed up, and waiting lists for the better independent garages have lengthened.

Depending on your financial circumstances, it might make more sense for you to sell it as it is, whilst it's still got the best part of a year's MOT remaining, and put the money toward a better car. A private buyer who's handy with the spanners might pay you more than you might think.

The economics of running a 13 yr old car are hugely influenced by how much you can do for yourself.

 

[John202020]

Hi, so the car has got to the point of do you spend "a bit/quite a bit" and keep the car for the rest of its life probably 5 years or maybe more if looked after, or sell it? The problem is getting another car that's a good one could cost far more than fixing yours?
Our car is a 59 plate I've replaced almost all the parts that will be needed to keep it on the road for a few more years, IE. Macpherson struts(shock absorbers) rear axel plus lots of other small jobs all done by myself so no labour costs.
Rear axle will need brake parts too, front suspension struts which will also require other parts too at the same time, if money is tight do the rear axle first parts probably £250 maybe £300 fitting not sure but about 3 hours labour ? so at £100 an hour £500 possibly the same for the front as if doing this job you're better off replacing every part of the front suspension ?
At the end of the day £1200 to keep your car on the road for the next 5 years is cheap vs a second hand car with issues why people sold it in the first place?

 

[jrkitching]

At the end of the day £1200 to keep your car on the road for the next 5 years is cheap vs a second hand car with issues why people sold it in the first place?

That's true, but the chances of this being the only thing that's likely to go wrong with a now-13 yr old 500 over the next 5 yrs are slim indeed.

One could spend £1200 today, and be landed with another similar bill a month or two down the line. And that's before considering the sheer inconvenience of having a faulty car, which is hugely magnified if you have to go running to a garage every time something needs attention.

Sometimes those of us who are fortunate enough to have the tools/skills/equipment to deal with faults as they arise forget just how much sheer hassle is involved in dealing with even minor issues.

I know a lot of people who would rather budget for a £250 monthly payment and have a new car every three years just to avoid the worry of running an older one, and for them, it's the right choice.

 

[John202020]

Sometimes those of us who are fortunate enough to have the tools/skills/equipment to deal with faults as they arise forget just how much sheer hassle is involved in dealing with even minor issues.

I was in halfords recently the elderly guy in front at the till needed new wiper blades the girl said we don't sell Bosch any more we've got these for £70 plus fitting £15, could have cried for the guy having just bought from Euro car parts new ones for ours at £25 the pair for Bosch he eventually paid £45/50 fitted I think for their standard range

 

[The Panda Nut]

That's true, but the chances of this being the only thing that's likely to go wrong with a now-13 yr old 500 over the next 5 yrs are slim indeed.

One could spend £1200 today, and be landed with another similar bill a month or two down the line. And that's before considering the sheer inconvenience of having a faulty car, which is hugely magnified if you have to go running to a garage every time something needs attention.

Sometimes those of us who are fortunate enough to have the tools/skills/equipment to deal with faults as they arise forget just how much sheer hassle is involved in dealing with even minor issues.

I know a lot of people who would rather budget for a £250 monthly payment and have a new car every three years just to avoid the worry of running an older one, and for them, it's the right choice.

Your getting old!! OK so am I as thats the sort of figure I tend to think of for a new motor. Not quite enough these days. I do agree with the sentiment. My daughter in Manchester has our old Seat, Its 21 years old, and it does now keep throwing jobs at us, but nothing that cannot be contained inside £250 a month and thast allowing it needs a clutch and cam belt I want her to change but she keeps running it on. You do need ot find a decent honest garage who will advise properly and I feel we now have two that are trustworthy and capable of looking forwards and adviso=ing on required and recommended work.

I would ask for an AA or RAC check and report before moving on. Find out the full extent of likely expenditure on this and anythiing else including bodywork. Check the exhaust, clutch, cambelt and gearbox input shaft bearings are goinmg to carry on for a while and then plan the big jobs in.. I was charged only 2.5 hours for 4 flexi brake pipes and two calipers two weeks ago. Parts costs were eye watering though. On that basis 4 hours MAX for the axle £138 for the part. c. £378 plus the front arms which should be a bit less.

The other things are really running maintenance so annoying and costly but to be expected. The trouble as ever is unless you buy new, any second hand hand car can be a bundle of trouble and expense. I hate to admit that retaining the Seat has been financially sound. I hate the thing now. Shes thousands better off but the annoyance of regular garage visits is significant. Next week rear brake pads but she is coming home so its going to be a £20 job.

 

[Fiatgirl2010]

So I should stick with the devil I know and keep repairing her, rather that buy another used car and not knowing what's going to potentially go wrong and could cost more?
I hate cars.

 

[varesecrazy]

So I should stick with the devil I know and keep repairing her, rather that buy another used car and not knowing what's going to potentially go wrong and could cost more?
I hate cars.

It's your call

Most things are essentially Simple fixes
(headlights are simple and inexpensive as an example..)

Likely issues you could well encounter in the next 3 years:

Rear hatch wiring
1hour and £60 part

Front suspension
4 hours and £300 parts

Thermostat. 1 hour and £30 part


They are relatively cheap and simple to work on.. But if every task is being charged at £70 per hour they can soon get expensive

Of course that's the same with ANY car


Bottom line.. . Time to weigh up your options

If you have "outgrown" it..

Sell it with 9 months MOT and buy your next '5 years of transport'


If it still fits your planned needs.. "better the devil you know"

I didnt ask.. Is it a manual gearbox?
Duologic (auto) is a Lot more to fix..

 

[The Panda Nut]

In 1985 I bought my first brand new car. I cant remember the costs, but it was also when I changed to diesel. The saving from fuel used being less, and better economy meant I was better off overall. But I was driving a high milage to work, having changed jobs. Without the fuel saving I dont think just repairs would have been enough to justify buying new. You need to look at all costs as Varesecrazy suggests, and factor in insurance and road tax too. The point about duologic is impotant too. You should do a spread sheet and build in actual fuel costs and service costs over your projected milage to compare costs. With a new car you also have higher depreciation potential and its a very big consideration. Once you get on the roundabout it sucks you in to continued cost commitment. You can repair a car for a long time if the body work remains sound. Keeping it ewell maintained and doing repairs as soon as a fault is found seems to me to work best. You maintain reliability and spread cost evenly. If put off doing repairs you build a bow wave of costs that can swamp you when several things have to be done together. I have just replaced the brakes on our 2011 Panda for example. I could have left this for some time. however, I know they are now good for a long time so I am ready for the next thing.... As we get towards 100,000 miles it may require a clutch or alternator or starter. I wont need the brakes now at the same time, and in the mean time brakes will be OK at MOT time. I did the exhaust a few months back. The whole system was done to get rid of a smallish leak, much for the same reason. Now goof for a few years and it will not fail an MOT, Servicing on time is done to reduce wear and make sure it passes emissions tests. I used to book MOT a month early so I had time to do repairs. Its now not possible due to the MOTs are done. My top tip would be tell the garage to do a pre MOT inspection and test only if it will pass. This way, you wont be off the road for a minor failure point and still have the month to fix any problems. The MOT, will run for 12 months from its expiry date thus you lose nothing by doing it a month early. I agree cars can seem hateful things. Good maintenance including thorough service AND cleaning help keep costs down. See posts on underbody rust traps as well.

 

[John202020]

It all boils down to what you can afford, yes a new car could be £250 a month, but that's every month, whereas £500 to fix now is 10 months of not paying £250 a month?
If you're broke like lots of us fixing is more affordable in the long run?
Ask people for prices try "click mechanic " for some repairs even Euro car parts has a fit it for me price on some parts, not all.
If you keep the car feel free to ask for the price of parts, here, at least you'll have a parts price, we'll often link a supplier too