Technical Phonic reset

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Technical Phonic reset

The pulley

Everyone interested in this thread should watch the video.

It appears that the crank sprocket and the crank pulley are loose on the crank nose. Allowing around 10 or 15 degrees rotational slop.
Aye, but does he not say this is with the 3 bolts just finger tight? When properly tightened the slop won't be there? I do notice though that the wee "pip" hole in the fan belt pulley (phonic wheel) has a worn bit on one side? which would seem to indicate it's been Slopping around when the engine is running? If so, that would do it surely?
 
I actually set the pulley as close to the centre of the 10-15 degree slip and it’s cured.
Before today I had no idea that it moved that much and although nothing to do with the crank to cam timing itself it fools the ecu into thinking that it’s 10-15 degrees out.
Hence why I think people recalibrate using “phonic reset”
It all makes sense now!
I’ve been super lucky setting it in the middle and hoping for the best.
I did also try it in other places and the fault continued.
Please watch my video to see what I mean and save yourself much heartache.
I took that belt off and on 6 times thinking I was doing something wrong.
Thanks everybody for your input
 
Aye, but does he not say this is with the 3 bolts just finger tight? When properly tightened the slop won't be there? I do notice though that the wee "pip" hole in the fan belt pulley (phonic wheel) has a worn bit on one side? which would seem to indicate it's been Slopping around when the engine is running? If so, that would do it surely?
You can physically set up the pulley tight in different places and I’ve set it in the middle and the problem has gone away.
There is wear in the pin hole however it has been torqued up correctly every time
 
I suggest checking the big crank bolt and the crank sprocket....the sprocket is known for a damaged "key" part of the sintered metal crank sprocket on this engine.
Thanks for the heads up,
It was you that got me to check this out
 
I actually set the pulley as close to the centre of the 10-15 degree slip and it’s cured.
Before today I had no idea that it moved that much and although nothing to do with the crank to cam timing itself it fools the ecu into thinking that it’s 10-15 degrees out.
Hence why I think people recalibrate using “phonic reset”
It all makes sense now!
I’ve been super lucky setting it in the middle and hoping for the best.
I did also try it in other places and the fault continued.
Please watch my video to see what I mean and save yourself much heartache.
I took that belt off and on 6 times thinking I was doing something wrong.
Thanks everybody for your input
That's great, Very pleased for you. This whole saga has been very interesting and has supported a lot of what I've always thought about doing phonic wheel relearns - Every day's a school day folks!
 
The great thing is that it’s solved and hopefully this will help others.
It was a group effort that solved the problem
 
Thank you kind sir!
Actually I'm only repeating what others on the forum have oft reported - I've actually never come across one with a sheared key and, unless I'd read it on here would never have particularly thought of it. The "problem" with them is it's not a "proper" key - as in Woodruff Key - but is part of the casting of the pulley itself and actually not very large. Looking at it, and knowing it's not steel, I'm not especially surprised they are known to shear.
 
This must be why people get the phobic reset to bring it back into sync.
When it’s a fault with the pulley
 
I took that belt off and on 6 times thinking I was doing something wrong.
Actually you did "something wrong". You missed the "play" in the phonic wheel bolt holes. It was way too much (a bit is acceptable).
Plus no research whatsoever. Grande: it's a main model, most valuable threads are there, not in Evo or "2012" sections.

Study this (threads packed with information, pictures, links), what can go wrong (in such simple engines):
Timing belt Guide and Discussion (all 6 pages): https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/1-2-8v-evo-2-engine-cam-belt-replacement.237966/page-6
1,4 8V (VVT) timing setup issue, case study: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/engine-timing-setup-1-4-8v-vvt.426347/
P0016 fault code: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/the-old-p0016.510767/
Another one ("timing issue"): https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/timing-issue.516974/
Punto_2, non-VVT, but also timing problems: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/valve-stem-seals-replacement.514437/

Now you know what's up: mechanical issues first, attention to details. Then we can fool around with "resets" (it's a very last thing to do).
Reset is there to inform the ECU, confirm that the current state of the timing system is OK, mechanically (and you're sure, 100%).
Not the other way round (to "fix", cover up, hide mechanical problems by performing some software cheap-ass tricks).
 
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Actually you did "something wrong". You missed the "play" in the phonic wheel bolt holes. It was way too much (a bit is acceptable).
Plus no research whatsoever. Grande: it's a main model, most valuable threads are there, not in Evo or "2012" sections.

Study this (threads packed with information, pictures, links), what can go wrong (in such simple engines):
Timing belt Guide and Discussion (all 6 pages): https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/1-2-8v-evo-2-engine-cam-belt-replacement.237966/page-6
1,4 8V (VVT) timing setup issue, case study: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/engine-timing-setup-1-4-8v-vvt.426347/
P0016 fault code: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/the-old-p0016.510767/
Another one ("timing issue"): https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/timing-issue.516974/
Punto_2, non-VVT, but also timing problems: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/valve-stem-seals-replacement.514437/

Now you know what's up: mechanical issues first, attention to details. Then we can fool around with "resets" (it's a very last thing to do).
Reset is there to inform the ECU, confirm that the current state of the timing system is OK, mechanically (and you're sure, 100%).
Not the other way round (to "fix", cover up, hide mechanical problems by performing some software tricks).
The play is there even in a brand new pulley as after finding the fault I have now purchased one.
It’s exactly the same my friend!
So one would assume that it is a design fault and the way fiat get around it is by performing a “phonic reset”
Why would I of even considered this?
I bought the correct pin set for the engine and set the timing correctly.
I have also since spoken to a fiat master tech where I bought a genuine pulley today and he confirmed that when they do a belt on this engine they always perform the reset because of this discrepancy outside of the engine timing.
Makes perfect sense to me unless fiat themselves are wrong.
 
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