Technical Panda wishbone replacement done

[jon1612]

Finally got round to replacing my Panda front wishbone / track control arms
total job done in a couple of hours in driveway ( inc fitting new brake pads )
You will need 18mm socket for the bolts and 13mm spanner and socket for the pinch bolt, also a hammer, pry bar and usual hand tools and a ball joint splitter.
I had given the 18mm bolts a pull a few weeks back so knew they would come out ok but still did the back ones with wd40.
I found it easier to jack car one side at a time then axle stand under as well, also i bought new pinch bolts from main dealer think was £8 inc nuts dont start it without.
loosed the 2 bolts and remove. undo the pinch bolt nut on the lower ball joint.
this came off easy but the bolt was stuck in the hub, the drivers side came out easy with a few clouts with the hammer after forcing the pry bar into the split in the back of the hub where the pinch bolt goes, the nearside one took a lot more hammering and attacking with the air gun but gave up eventually hence the new bolts required as ended up mushroomed over and slightly bent.
after that a good session with the ball joint splitter and big hammer seperated the arm from the hub, a couple of tugs and the wishbone was on the floor.
fitting was a fiddle at first but then sussed it.
put the big round end in first and line up with screwdriver put bolt in loose then twist it forward till the front is lined up, i found that would not go straight in as was catching on subframe but a quick knock with rubber mallet on the wishbone and in it went. line up and fit bolt.
now press the wishbone down so the end of the ball joint clears the hub and line up the hole. one went straight in the other needed a few taps with the mallet, make sure its in far enough so the recess in the ball joint lines up with the pinch bolt hole otherwise you wont get bolt in, also the bolt only goes in from the rear with the nut at the front.
at this point i tightened the pinch bolt but left the two 18mm finger tight, put the wheel back on then lowered car to the floor then tightened the 18mm bolts so where tight in "on road" position.
a quick check round and a road test job done.
you will need to get tracking done some time after as geometry will probably be slightly out.
I have put comments on pictures - hope this helps someone thinking of doing it.

Jon

 

[A3jeroen]

Well done!

gr J

 

[captainslarty]

Superb Jon mate ! = and great write up !.
Nice work.

Would be interested on a photo of type of BJ Splitter you used ?.
Also, a report as to your thoughts on test drive results / comparison to previous units ?

Those arms would appear to be a total bargain !.

 

[jon1612]

Superb Jon mate ! = and great write up !.
Nice work.

Would be interested on a photo of type of BJ Splitter you used ?.
Also, a report as to your thoughts on test drive results / comparison to previous units ?

Those arms would appear to be a total bargain !.

I had replaced the dogbone rear mount a few weeks ago due to a knocking at low speed on and off acceleration as the engine rocked which reduced the knock by about 70% after changing wishbones the knock seems to have gone all together now so was probably due to arms moving as you can see were well stuffed. have added a pic of splitter, cost about £8 for it, didnt use the pivot type splitter ( where you wind bolt in ) as would not have been able to get in because of drive shaft.
Word of warning to anyone doing this DO NOT try to pull wishbone out while the ball joint end is still attached as you could pull the drive shaft out of the gearbox or tri-bearing out of the cup.

 

[captainslarty]

I had replaced the dogbone rear mount a few weeks ago due to a knocking at low speed on and off acceleration as the engine rocked which reduced the knock by about 70% after changing wishbones the knock seems to have gone all together now so was probably due to arms moving as you can see were well stuffed. have added a pic of splitter, cost about £8 for it, didnt use the pivot type splitter ( where you wind bolt in ) as would not have been able to get in because of drive shaft.
Word of warning to anyone doing this DO NOT try to pull wishbone out while the ball joint end is still attached as you could pull the drive shaft out of the gearbox or tri-bearing out of the cup.

Nice one Jon, I wondered about the splitter due to space, unfortunately, when I have used the type you show, I have usually damaged the grease cover (rubber) - no issue if changing a TRE etc, but to reuse the BJ I almost everytime had issues, I presume you got away with it -
I have a fairly small HD bolt / pivot type - usually no worries at all- tighten up had then smack it with a BFO hammer if it wont move lol

Again, great job, great looking product and an excellent writeup :worship:

 

[jon1612]

No issues as new wishbone comes with new ball joint already fitted . See pics. If was just taking off to remove hub would have used a different tool or used a jack to get apart .

 

[A3jeroen]

That is exactly the splitter I used on our Stilo's. And yes it will damage the rubber part, but you'll be throwing that away anyway.

gr J

 

[captainslarty]

That is exactly the splitter I used on our Stilo's. And yes it will damage the rubber part, but you'll be throwing that away anyway.

gr J

Yeah, I had a 'blonde' moment there, I was thinking of having to remove and replace TRE's - but of course - not needed as only suspension arm replacement,,
DOH !!

 

[Jamiesouthwest]

Hi,great article.very informative.local garage,used to be good,now maybe not,to replace both wishbones,which I have,..big intake of air through teeth.itll cost you,as we have to take bumper off..true?also good info on pinch bolts in thread.regards.newbie.

 

[varesecrazy]

Hi,great article.very informative.local garage,used to be good,now maybe not,to replace both wishbones,which I have,..big intake of air through teeth.itll cost you,as we have to take bumper off..true?also good info on pinch bolts in thread.regards.newbie.

Hi

When I did all the work on my 2004 1.1

Wishbones..droplinks..front suspension struts (dampers)

There was nothing other than wheels removed

The bumpers never moved in the 15 years of ownership.. sounds like they are trying to charge you for labour unnecessarily

 

[DaveMcT]

The job is MUCH easier with the drop links removed both sides. Getting them off usually means cutting the nuts so get a replacement pair. With supported on stands, you can lift the strut with a jack to make more space but it's far better to fit new drop links.

A smear of red grease on the front bush helps it slide into the subframe more easily. Also copper paste all bolts as it might be you doing it next time.

 

[varesecrazy]

The job is MUCH easier with the drop links removed both sides. Getting them off usually means cutting the nuts so get a replacement pair. With supported on stands, you can lift the strut with a jack to make more space but it's far better to fit new drop links.

A smear of red grease on the front bush helps it slide into the subframe more easily. Also copper paste all bolts as it might be you doing it next time.

Thread is 6 years old.

Newbie is asking about wishbone replacement



Cutting off wishbone nuts?

Are you referring to the droplinks??

 

[DaveMcT]

I meant cut the drop link nuts, because when you try to loosen them they simply spin.

 

[koalar]

6 year Old thread still getting suggestions.


I don't remember touch the drop links. Just something else to go wrong and extra cost.


Its only a few bolts and a bit of brut force. Fairly sure I didn't bother with a ball splitter and just wound the nut to the end and wacked it with a club hammer while levering with a pry bar



last one I did was for the girlfriends MOT and did while she had a cup of coffee. Went so smoothly I don't really remember it.


I do remember checking it though as it looked okay and thought the MOT station had got it wrong. But found if you put our knees at 3 and 9 o'clock and your hands the other side the wheel and push and pull alternately. You could see the rear of the arm move up and down. So needed changing fair enough.


Its always worth checking as one garaged put down discs that didn't need changing. When I phoned phoned they said it should have Bern advisory. 3 years later they ate still passing.

 

[09 johno]

when I did my wishbones I bought the set which included the drop links, didn't use the new ones as there was no need. but they are in my spares box for future use.

 

[caroleschichi]

I know this is an old thread but thought this info would be best added here for people searching 'how to...'

If you've got the 1.2 FIRE engine in the post 2011 model then the process is a little more involved as the front subframe is a different design. There's an extension piece bolted just in front of the front wishbone that runs to the front crossmember - so you can't get access to the bolt for the front wishbone mount.

First you'll need to remove the front bumper (screws along the top and bottom edge, screws holding the wheelarch liners in place, small bolt just inside the wheelarch going up into the wing, then carefully unclip each side and slide the whole lot forward).

Next, remove the four bolts that go through the crossmember into the subframe extension.

Then remove the two bolts fixing the extension to the subframe.

Finally, lift the washer bottle out of the way (you can leave pipes and wiring attached) so you can slide the subframe extension piece out to the side of the car.

You then remove the wishbone in the normal way.

Also note that this model uses a pressed steel wishbone rather than the cast type (be careful when ordering parts!) The arm is slighly larger so you WILL need to disconnect the droplink and push the anti-roll bar up out of the way to give you enought room to manoeuvre it into place.

 

[DaveMcT]

When you reconnect the washer bottle don't put the hoses back on the wrong sides. Don't ask me how I know.