Technical Panda pop mk 3 no power to electric window

[Confusedowner]

HELP!
I have recently bought a 2015 panda pop the passenger window doesn't operate.
There is power in the fusebox and the fuse is good I have swapped the two switches and the switch works on the drivers side window.
when the passengers side is operated there is no relay noise.
The drivers side makes a click and the window motor operates.
I have checked and there is no power to the passenger door and motor connections.
Is this likely to be a fault in the body control module?

 

[the green vanper]

Hello,

I'd first check for continuity of the wires out of the body module into the door itself. Sometimes the cables can break / be cut where they enter the door. I don't know how this is called in English, sorry

eLearn module should have all the wiring diagrams, that also should help with the troubleshooting. I have no idea if the eLearn available in the download section of the forum covers the 2015 panda...

 

[varesecrazy]

Fractured wires at the door hinge..
left or right door can be at fault, start with drivers as it's probably had 90% of the use

 

[Confusedowner]

I have pulled back the protective gaiter and all the wiring looks perfect.
i would need to know where the wiring terminates inside the car to do a continuity check
but would need a mk3 wiring diagram.
My local Fiat garage have offered to look at it for £159/hr ! so I will carry on looking for a bit longer
as it is the passengers side its also likely to have had a lot less use and the drivers side is fine.

 

[bugsymike]

I had similar on a 2010 Doblo , though I had two issues one was partly the drivers door switch for the passenger side which on testing for power at the passenger side motor with door card off it appeared live in so much as I had voltage from the motor terminal to earth, but not across the two terminals. In my case the motor only has two wires so power is swapped for up and down, + becomes - and vice a versa, not earth return like older vehicles. I found out by partially removing motor casing and manually winding the window down a few inches ( a very long job due to gearing) and then applied power which made the window go back up, but still not down. So what it turned out to be was the drivers side switch, a cheap chinese version for around £14 fixed it . How they can sell a unit that has two window switches, a left and right mirror selector and a control for moving the mirrors plus shipping from China for that price amazes me. Having said that I bought two O rings from the Fiat Dealer for around £37, two weeks later they arrived in a Fiat bag marked PRC (China) !
As @varesecrazy, mentions wiring at door hinges, this Doblo has a detachable plug at the hinge wiring that the locking clip is damaged so sometimes if door is part opened window mechanism fails until shut.

 

[varesecrazy]

I have pulled back the protective gaiter and all the wiring looks perfect.

as it is the passengers side its also likely to have had a lot less use and the drivers side is fine.

Have you checked both doors,?

My drivers door wiring messed with the LH window

Blobs of solder sorted it

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Looking at the wiring diagrams in Haynes AutoFix* for the left front door (*which I pay for and are copyright so I'll not put here), there is a brown wire and a brown and grey striped wire that connect to the window motor from the body computer, via the plug at the door hinge post. No earth is shown on the motor, but black wires in the door loom are earths. It appears that the polarity of the two brown wires gets reversed by the body computer to operate the window up or down. There doesn't appear to be any interconnection between the left and right doors

 

[Confusedowner]

That is interesting about the plug on the A post thank you, if I can figure out how to get to that point I can definitely check the continuity to the window motor connection through the door hinge point and also check to see if any power gets to that point from the control module presumably its a matter of pulling trim out of that point inside the passengers footwell?
I have my doubts though as there is no click from the relay which I understand is built into the body control module and isn't replaceable.
Presumably the passenger side switch should make a relay click the same as the driver's side does? mine doesn't.

 

[Confusedowner]

I was just thinking, if anyone out in Pandaland has a mk 3 of about 2015 and could try the LH window when its up and just press the up button and see if it clicks somewhere behind the parcel shelf where the relay lives (I think) that might help diagnosis?
My working drivers side does and the passenger side doesn't.
I appreciate everyone's help I suspect expensive electronics but would love to be proven wrong.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

I was just thinking, if anyone out in Pandaland has a mk 3 of about 2015 and could try the LH window when its up and just press the up button and see if it clicks somewhere behind the parcel shelf where the relay lives (I think) that might help diagnosis?
My working drivers side does and the passenger side doesn't.
I appreciate everyone's help I suspect expensive electronics but would love to be proven wrong.

There was a recent thread about wiring to, I think, central locking that covered the location of this plug. I'll see if I can find that.
[Edit: it was this thread about door wiring I was thinking of. https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/right-rear-door-indicated-as-not-closed.505226/#post-4719129)
I'd be very surprised if its the computer – much more likely a broken wire somewhere. Or a burned out motor (if for example the window was jammed by frost at some point). Any relays are tiny and integral with the body computer... On mine, if I press either switch to try and close the already closed window, there is a click, but it comes from within the door, not the fuse box/computer/relay unit, which is behind the back of the glovebox.

 

[Confusedowner]

Hello folks, I have tried to find a place where I can disconnect the passengers door wiring from the car to check wiring continuity to the window motor and have failed miserably, there was a suggestion that there was a plug somewhere on the A post but I haven't been able to find it as yet.
I have tried to remove the internal plastic trim by the passengers left foot without success because of course the bonnet release cable is attached to this.
I'm trying not to damage the plastic and clips if anyone has done this successfully could you explain how it comes apart please.
I have tried another window motor this doesn't work either when plugged into the socket on the doors loom I have tried this motor on the bench and it motors up and down perfectly when connected to a spare 12v battery.
So to recap I'm still missing a feed to the door and there is no voltage at the 2 pin socket that the window regulator plugs into.

 

[Confusedowner]

PROBLEM SOLVED.
I forgot to remove the screw behind the bonnet release catch so the trim came out and there was indeed a multipin connector as suggested just above the bonnet release catch.
to release it you need to slide the grey plastic top towards you and it pulls apart I sprayed it with switch cleaner but it still didn't operate.
There is however another multipin connector INSIDE the A post, to get to it you pull back the gaiter over the wiring in the door gap and the white plastic oval piece comes out after pressing a plastic part top and bottom.
when this is pulled out you will find another connector attached to it to release the plug slide the blue plastic top and it will separate I then sprayed this with switch cleaner and the window works fine again.
Thank you to everyone who helped me and I hope this post will help someone else.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Glad you got there, and thanks for providing the info which no doubt will help others. I wonder why two plugs/sockets in close succession?

In passing, this is why I am always sceptical of the reliance people put on fault code readers (I know there were no codes here...) So often, a 'fault' reported by a code turns out to be a loose or dirty connection, or a break in a wire elsewhere leading to a code being generated that isn't always correct or helpful.

(That said, MES did pinpoint specifically glow plug 4 shorting to earth when heated, even though measuring resistances showed them all to be OK when cold/disconnected)

 

[Confusedowner]

I was baffled by the hidden plug and socket too but I wouldn't have found it without suggestions from the forum members.