Technical Panda II 1.3Multijet

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Technical Panda II 1.3Multijet

Bencaill

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Mar 7, 2023
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Hi all,

I have an issue on panda II engine starter, nothing appen after ignition. Starter is not working.

Is anyone at the electrical diagram, there is relay or fuse ? or there is direct connection between neiman and starter ?

Thanks
 
It’s a pretty simple system it will turn over even without the ECU plugged in


Check the small brown wire for battery voltage on turning the jey


Voltage drop test the earth and leads and red power leads

Starter terminal nut loose is fairly common

High resistance on earth lead fairly common

Loose red lead on alternator fairly common

Starter motors rarely fail suddenly

Ignition switch is fairly common I have replaced two ( no volts on small brown wire on key turn)

 
Thanks for your help and your link.
Now the ignition work but motor doesn’t start. I have the immo code light on. I know the PIN code and want to try the gaz pedal procedure. Is anyone know the procedure to enter PIN code with the gaz pedal ? Thanks
 
D7B8E951-CA64-41FC-A882-5075FE8E7F80.jpeg
 
I continue, how can I measure signal from engine rpm sensor (2wires) on ecu wiring to ensure the good works, and how can I measure injector signal to show when ecu allow starting or not ?
A scan tool will measure the RPM as measured at the ECU

start here as no RPM no injector

The dash REV counters while cranking is also a pretty good indication

Crank sensor to ECU (engine computer) to BSI (body computer) to instrument display (dash)
 
A scan tool will measure the RPM as measured at the ECU

start here as no RPM no injector

The dash REV counters while cranking is also a pretty good indication

Crank sensor to ECU (engine computer) to BSI (body computer) to instrument display (dash)
I use autocom but the reading not appear smooth. Sometime rpm sometimes not. is the reading from ecu work with the immo on ?
 
A scan tool will measure the RPM as measured at the ECU

start here as no RPM no injector

The dash REV counters while cranking is also a pretty good indication

Crank sensor to ECU (engine computer) to BSI (body computer) to instrument display (dash)
And regarding obd, there is no rev indicator. So I need a logical electrical solution, by measuring signal on injector
 
The ECU isn’t active until a valid code is received from the body computer

No communication to the BSI so no REV counter is as expected

You need to sort the immobiliser or enter the CODE manually before you can go any further.
 
Ok, i will try the pedal gaz procedure. It’s maybe explanation of why autocom read sometimes or not dynamics info at ignition. The issue is maybe only the immo
 
What happened to the car

The Immobiliser can get messed up on later cars if the battery been flat. Locking and unlocking the car via the remote key sorts it out.

I don’t think this is the case here as it would also normally blocks the obd port
 
Thanks for your clarifying. I will try tomorrow
I finally put a starting kit from an other car to release immo. Now the key works. But i always have difficult to start engine. I can now see dynamics measurement. The common rail pressure on the first motor turns is between 80-100 bars. I assume it’s not enough. what can be the issue ? fuel pressure regulator or HP pump? one time motor is started all is fine. Thanks
 
I finally put a starting kit from an other car to release immo. Now the key works. But i always have difficult to start engine. I can now see dynamics measurement. The common rail pressure on the first motor turns is between 80-100 bars. I assume it’s not enough. what can be the issue ? fuel pressure regulator or HP pump? one time motor is started all is fine. Thanks
You want about twice that while cranking

Are you sure it's cranking fast enough
 
After a starter wiring connection issue, I've just got mine turning on the starter.

(1) Its leaking fuel from the pump. All the pipes are dry but the lowest pump head is chucking fuel out . So that's a pump off the engine job ;-(
(2) No 2 injector is puffing fumes from its seat. 1 and 2 will have to come out to get it get sorted.

When I stripped the engine, No 4 injector had become welded in by hard carbon and its copper seat had a wear groove. At least that one now looks ok.

PS. You can rebuild the HP ,pump with new seals for about £20. I did mine so guess who to blame for the leak. It's fiddly and you'll need very fine circlip pliers to remove a tiny clip on the fuel intake non-return valve. Mine has 120,000 miles but no visible wear inside the pump.
 
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