Technical panda 2012+ axle in a 2003-12 model?

[AAB1992]

Its just occurred to me whilst in the midst of changing the axle on my 2004 model, that a latter model panda axle would in theory fit. I've recently bought a 68 plate pop and I was comparing notes.

It would appear on closer inspection that the chassis hasn't changed in size and that only the wheel track has increased 50mm at the front and rear just like the 500 model.

So therefore, an axle from a latter model, whist being different is design, is similar to the 500's dimensions and shares common attachment points for the pivot bush, shock absorber upper mount and upper spring seat.

It should fit?

In addition, you'd potentially be getting an axle that doesn't corrode as badly? (I suppose time will tell) and a spring base that is well insulated to prevent metal on metal contact as well as larger drum brakes.

If one can live with the 50mm track increase and possible issues with the insurance then its an other viable alternative.

I feel an experiment coming on.....

 

[DaveMcT]

See my thread on fitting a 2015 Fiat 500 rear axle to a 1.2 Dynamic.

https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/442145-2105-500-rear-axle-into-2007-panda-169-a.html

The car handles better and of course rides better as the springs are softer. The anti roll bar stiffens the axle so standard 169 Panda springs feel rock hard. You will need the 500 springs and rubber spring seats to go with the new axle. For 500 parts, use rubber cushions/seats at both ends of the spring to correct the ride height and protect the axle spring pans). Everything is a direct swap. I used the whole lot including the hand brake cables.

Later model Panda springs might be a straight swap, but the 500 springs are shorter so need the rubber seats at both ends to restore the ride height.

The 100HP would benefit greatly from the anti roll bar back end, but the 50mm wider track is no good with it's wider wheels.

The one problem area is down to age. The brake bundy pipe flare nuts seize onto the pipes and will twist the metal if you simply unscrew them. I cut the rubber hoses and unscrewed them from the flare nuts. Some careful heat will free the seized flare nuts and copper grease keeps the weather out.

 

[AAB1992]

I’ve had no end of bother with brake pipes! They have all snapped, I did my best with penetrating fluid. In the end I’ve stripped things back to the ABS unit. The pipe around the tank is a nightmare. I’m not sure whether to do them in copper or not and add an extra union around fuel tank so it’s easier to put back in

 

[DaveMcT]

I’ve had no end of bother with brake pipes! They have all snapped, I did my best with penetrating fluid. In the end I’ve stripped things back to the ABS unit. The pipe around the tank is a nightmare. I’m not sure whether to do them in copper or not and add an extra union around fuel tank so it’s easier to put back in

I seriously considered running braided hoses from the ABS unit to the rear axle joints. HEL charge £20 for up to 1 metre plus £5 (IIRC) per additional metre of hose. £30 would do each side plus the £20 I was already spending on back axle hoses.

HOWEVER - access around the ABS block is horrible. It's clearly fitted before the engine went in and no thought for repairs. It was to all intents not a viable option.

So I was VERY careful to not turn the flare nuts until I could get clear access. As said, careful warming the nut will soften the plastic coating and then it will turn easily. Just watch out for drips of hot brake fluid. Some thin plastic bag polythene under the brake reservoir lid will help to reduce fluid dripping out. Plug the old cut hoses and put back on the flare nuts to stop the fluid drips while you do other things.

When the flares fail, you can cut the pipe back and use an inline connector to run a short length of new metal hose. Copper age hardens so cunifer is the best material because. Due to the costs of tools and materials it's probably best to get it done professionally.