Yes
Panda 1.1
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Panda 1.1
Is this correct
Brown and red wire should be battery voltage at ignition on
I have voltage to the coil connector..it lasts as long as the fuel pump works..
That's normal behavior
(+) is continously fed. ECU cuts off the (-) feed line and puts it on when it's needed. If you put ignition on but don't start the engine, ECU cuts the voltage feeding, like on the fuel pump.
Can we answer the question correctly
First we are told there's no voltage at the coil
Then we are told there is
Then we are told the battery light goes out during cranking
Then we are told it doesn't
With out the correct information we will get nowhere
Can we have a video of the dash while cranking
Can we have the voltage between engine and battery negative while cranking, takes less than a minute
There's obviously a language interpretation problem
nakon vaših prijedloga što učiniti mjerenjem i testiranjem utvrdio sam: 1. napon na zavojnici traje koliko i rad pumpe za gorivo. 2. lampica ulja se gasi. 3. lampice alternatora i motora se pale. 4. kako izmjeriti napon između minus pola akumulatora i motora.. motor je već u minusu. Sigurno postoji jezična barijera..Hoće li sada biti jasnije..hvala
It's not minus when you put 200 amps through the earth lead, at cranking, there's a voltage drop due to the resistance of the cable
I just need you to put one lead of the multimeter on the engine, one lead on the battery negative and measure the voltage while cranking
The oil light goes out immediately or after a few seconds of cranking
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Have you tested both coils or all 4 plugs for spark
Actually
Measure negative circuit voltage drop
Take a multimeter, set it to DC volts, scale 20V (or 2 V) and check the voltage drop between your starter motor ground and the negative battery terminal while it's under load by placing the black lead of the voltmeter on the housing of the starter motor and the red lead of the voltmeter on the negative battery terminal.
You want that number to be as close to zero as possible. Anything above 0.2 volts, and it's time to clean or rework your ground.
It's best to measure between starter motor casing.
Measure negative circuit voltage drop
Take a multimeter, set it to DC volts, scale 20V (or 2 V) and check the voltage drop between your starter motor ground and the negative battery terminal while it's under load by placing the black lead of the voltmeter on the housing of the starter motor and the red lead of the voltmeter on the negative battery terminal.
You want that number to be as close to zero as possible. Anything above 0.2 volts, and it's time to clean or rework your ground.
But... you are trying to start it for some time now, the battery might have gotten discharged.
First thing, measure the battery voltage between battery terminals.
Do you have a battery charger, in case you need to recharge?
First thing, measure the battery voltage between battery terminals.
Do you have a battery charger, in case you need to recharge?
That is good. Means ground cable is good. We have that checked.
Do that test to see if the starter motor is alright and there is no voltage drop inside it. Also, take a video of the multimeter measuring the battery voltage while you crank.
In reference to discharged battery I ment it might gotten discharged these last few days since engine doesn't start. So, do charge it if it needs to.
And as far as the faulty crankshaft sensor you suspect, you can do this easy test of listening the injectors with a screwdriver while you crank. No, you're not lost in translation, that's what I said. Like in this video:
If the injectors are clicking while you crank (actually somebody else will have to help you and do the actual cranking), means the crankshaft sensor is good. If not, you'll need a new crankshaft sensor, possibly.
If the injectors are clicking while you crank (actually somebody else will have to help you and do the actual cranking), means the crankshaft sensor is good. If not, you'll need a new crankshaft sensor, possibly.
Sounds good to me
Disconnected the crankshaft position sensor
Between the two wires should be
1134-1386 ohm at 20° C
And with multimeter on A/C probes between the two wires
Should be between 0.5 and 2.0 volts AC while cranking
A/C???
Alternating current, a type of electrical current in which the current repeatedly changes direction
AC, A.C., A/C, or Ac
It will normally be marked on the meter as AC or A/C I purposely used both to keep it nice and simple looks like that didn't work then
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I know. I mean shouldn't it be DC?!
