Technical P2563 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor

[beForm]

Hi,

I'm having a bit of a Cain Dingle moment with my 64 plate (2014/15) Doblo 1.3 multijet.

All has been fine until fairly recently when I noticed that when I started the van it wouldn't rev past 3000rpm when stationary. However, once in gear and on the move it would accelerate rapidly and pull well.

That is until the other day when I was travelling down the A1, I stopped at the services but when I returned and started the van the EML appeared. I noticed that when I rejoined the A1 the van wouldn't accelerate very fast and would creep up to 3000rpm even with my foot to the floor, eventually it barely went above 3100rpm.

I initially suspected that it could be the air filter or MAF sensor (I had a similar experience with a Rover 25 Perkins diesel when the MAF was broken).

I uncoupled the sensor and gave the connections a blast of electrical cleaner. It didn't change anything. I then tried driving with the MAF uncoupled and that didn't make a difference.

I checked the air filter, and to be fair it needs replacing, but that didn't seem to be causing an issue.

So I dug out my cheap code reader and it came up with 'P2563 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor A Circuit Range / Performance'.

Seems like a done deal. However, I found this forum and read a few posts and it seemed like it could be a sticky wastegate actuator. I took the under body panels off, got a torch out and looked around but couldn't find it (I was following the 'sticky actuator' youtube video that was in another post).

Then I realised that it's very accessible and at the top of the turbo located just behind the radiator (picture attached). I sprayed with WD-40 but it wasn't seized at all.

That said, it does make a bit of a wheezing sound when I move the rod up and down, and when the engine is running the resistance is exactly the same as when the engine is off. Whether or not that is relevant, I do not know. Perhaps someone could shed some light?

Should it sound like I'm pumping up an airbed or rubber dinghy with one of those foot pumps you buy at the beach?

To confuse matters (for me at least) I have been searching online for a turbocharger boost control position sensor, but cannot find one. All of the search results are for pressure sensors, and it is my understanding that these two are not the same.

Therefore, does anyone know where I can buy the correct sensor from, and where it is located so I can change it?


Cheers

 

[bugsymike]

Hi,

I'm having a bit of a Cain Dingle moment with my 64 plate (2014/15) Doblo 1.3 multijet.

All has been fine until fairly recently when I noticed that when I started the van it wouldn't rev past 3000rpm when stationary. However, once in gear and on the move it would accelerate rapidly and pull well.

That is until the other day when I was travelling down the A1, I stopped at the services but when I returned and started the van the EML appeared. I noticed that when I rejoined the A1 the van wouldn't accelerate very fast and would creep up to 3000rpm even with my foot to the floor, eventually it barely went above 3100rpm.

I initially suspected that it could be the air filter or MAF sensor (I had a similar experience with a Rover 25 Perkins diesel when the MAF was broken).

I uncoupled the sensor and gave the connections a blast of electrical cleaner. It didn't change anything. I then tried driving with the MAF uncoupled and that didn't make a difference.

I checked the air filter, and to be fair it needs replacing, but that didn't seem to be causing an issue.

So I dug out my cheap code reader and it came up with 'P2563 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor A Circuit Range / Performance'.

Seems like a done deal. However, I found this forum and read a few posts and it seemed like it could be a sticky wastegate actuator. I took the under body panels off, got a torch out and looked around but couldn't find it (I was following the 'sticky actuator' youtube video that was in another post).

Then I realised that it's very accessible and at the top of the turbo located just behind the radiator (picture attached). I sprayed with WD-40 but it wasn't seized at all.

That said, it does make a bit of a wheezing sound when I move the rod up and down, and when the engine is running the resistance is exactly the same as when the engine is off. Whether or not that is relevant, I do not know. Perhaps someone could shed some light?

Should it sound like I'm pumping up an airbed or rubber dinghy with one of those foot pumps you buy at the beach?

To confuse matters (for me at least) I have been searching online for a turbocharger boost control position sensor, but cannot find one. All of the search results are for pressure sensors, and it is my understanding that these two are not the same.

Therefore, does anyone know where I can buy the correct sensor from, and where it is located so I can change it?


Cheers

If it is making a strange noise when manually activating the waste gate, I would locate the vacuum pipe leading to it, pull it off at an easy point, push the activating rod/lever all the way , hold your finger over the tube and then release the rod/lever, it should stay in that position until you release the vacuum at the tube. If it doesn't it will indicate a leak , probably at the activator diaphragm. Also check for any cracked or split vacuum pipes.
This is all done with engine off.
With engine running, if you pull the vacuum pipe off leading to the turbo actuator you should feel firm vacuum if the activator solenoid is operating, so when you reconnect it with engine running you should see the actuator at the turbo move.
If your engine is the more powerful version with a VVT turbo the action may be different , but the principle is the same.
Regarding VVT turbos the vanes can "gum up" due to short journey slow speed trips etc. stopping correct operation.
If you are lucky that can be cleaned with Turbo Cleaner spray etc.
I have had various error codes indicating certain sensors, but I suggest you take them as a guide and not 100% the fault , more the direction to look.

 

[beForm]

If it is making a strange noise when manually activating the waste gate, I would locate the vacuum pipe leading to it, pull it off at an easy point, push the activating rod/lever all the way , hold your finger over the tube and then release the rod/lever, it should stay in that position until you release the vacuum at the tube. If it doesn't it will indicate a leak , probably at the activator diaphragm. Also check for any cracked or split vacuum pipes.
This is all done with engine off.
With engine running, if you pull the vacuum pipe off leading to the turbo actuator you should feel firm vacuum if the activator solenoid is operating, so when you reconnect it with engine running you should see the actuator at the turbo move.
If your engine is the more powerful version with a VVT turbo the action may be different , but the principle is the same.
Regarding VVT turbos the vanes can "gum up" due to short journey slow speed trips etc. stopping correct operation.
If you are lucky that can be cleaned with Turbo Cleaner spray etc.
I have had various error codes indicating certain sensors, but I suggest you take them as a guide and not 100% the fault , more the direction to look.

Hi,

Thanks for the reply and advice.

I've attached a video of the sound. I tried doing it again with the engine on but couldn't hear the wheezing over the engine noise.

Unfortunately, the weather is rats at the moment, but if it clears up I'll have a go with the vacuum pipe.

In regards to the turbo cleaner (the van was stood for a while); There seem to be two types. You stick one in the fuel tank like RedEx, and the other option is a spray/foam. I'm assuming the spray is a more direct, effective option?

Cheers

 

[bugsymike]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply and advice.

I've attached a video of the sound. I tried doing it again with the engine on but couldn't hear the wheezing over the engine noise.

Unfortunately, the weather is rats at the moment, but if it clears up I'll have a go with the vacuum pipe.

In regards to the turbo cleaner (the van was stood for a while); There seem to be two types. You stick one in the fuel tank like RedEx, and the other option is a spray/foam. I'm assuming the spray is a more direct, effective option?

Cheers

Hi,

Thanks for the reply and advice.

I've attached a video of the sound. I tried doing it again with the engine on but couldn't hear the wheezing over the engine noise.

Unfortunately, the weather is rats at the moment, but if it clears up I'll have a go with the vacuum pipe.

In regards to the turbo cleaner (the van was stood for a while); There seem to be two types. You stick one in the fuel tank like RedEx, and the other option is a spray/foam. I'm assuming the spray is a more direct, effective option?

Cheers

It's not a sound I would expect to hear.
Try what I suggested, all of it to get a better idea.
Re the turbo cleaners, if that was the problem which I doubt as the activation arm seems to move easily in video, normally the spray foam as advised in the instructions is best, then followed up by regular additive in fuel every other tankful I would do.
On my daughters Golf GTD 130 with VVT I took out the sensor from memory just on exhaust side of turbo and gave it a good blast of that , let it work , followed by lots of moving the arm all the way in both directions.
If you see a pic of the inside of a VVT turbo there are little "petal" type things that cover the holes on a sliding part, so if sticking they either stay partly open or parly closed which throws all the readings out and causes error messages.
I am guessing your turbo is the more basic type though.

 

[beForm]

It's not a sound I would expect to hear.
Try what I suggested, all of it to get a better idea.
Re the turbo cleaners, if that was the problem which I doubt as the activation arm seems to move easily in video, normally the spray foam as advised in the instructions is best, then followed up by regular additive in fuel every other tankful I would do.
On my daughters Golf GTD 130 with VVT I took out the sensor from memory just on exhaust side of turbo and gave it a good blast of that , let it work , followed by lots of moving the arm all the way in both directions.
If you see a pic of the inside of a VVT turbo there are little "petal" type things that cover the holes on a sliding part, so if sticking they either stay partly open or parly closed which throws all the readings out and causes error messages.
I am guessing your turbo is the more basic type though.

Hi,

I ended up leaving the van for a couple of days on the drive. I couldn't be bothered to look at it. However, for some reason today the sun was shining on the bonnet area so I just opened it up and had an inspection of the small hoses that connect to the turbo and loop around the the engine.

Lo and behold I found a broken/disconnected pipe. I've attached a picture - it blends in well with the rest of the engine so I didn't notice it at first glance, it was only by following and feeling the hoses/pipes that it became apparent.

 

[Winston13]

Hi, I'm having similar issue with my doblo. All pipe work appear intact and the actuator arm moves freely but it doesn't read a position on live data on my topdon tablet. It gives a required position but actual position never changes and reads 0 constantly. Is it likely to be the electronics within the actuator have failed?

 

[bugsymike]

Hi, I'm having similar issue with my doblo. All pipe work appear intact and the actuator arm moves freely but it doesn't read a position on live data on my topdon tablet. It gives a required position but actual position never changes and reads 0 constantly. Is it likely to be the electronics within the actuator have failed?

Need a lot more detail. Model , age, mileage, Engine Series number, etc.
Plus the fault you are getting and under what conditions.
Remember we are not standing beside the vehicle so can only go on the details supplied or not.
Plus for each post it is best to start afresh, tagging on to someone elses details can lead to confusion, especially if they go back over those previous details when trying to diagnose your problerm on a totally different situation.

 

[ES0106]

Evening all, I've got a similar situation. Same engine but different make and model - a Chevy Aveo (Corsa underneath but all the same 1.3 diesel - 95bhp). It's 2013 and done 140k. Came across this after extensive googling!

The car struggles on acceleration in 2nd and 3rd up to around 3000 rpm and then the turbo finally kicks in. MAF checked and cleaned, MAP checked and cleaned. I've got a P003A code - "boost pressure control A - learning limit exceeded.

I've checked the actuator - it moves freely but I've sprayed it with WD40 anyway just to be sure. It makes a similar squidgy noise OP mentioned when I move it with my hand but I assume this is okay?

I've seen things suggesting a new turbo as the vanes inside could be stuck. Before I go this far though, could it have something to do with the valve / solenoid? I've checked the pipes and it looks to me that they're okay? One goes straight to the turbo from the valve and the other goes to the back of the engine somewhere - but no cracks or cuts etc. Turbo has a very very small amount of oil on it when I check every 300 miles or so.

Is this something the valve can cause and is worth changing? I read something about a "sponge" inside it that needs cleaning?

I made this account literally just for this question as I'm excited I'm starting to get somewhere - this problem has been on my mind for about 6 months since I bought the car! Any help would be much appreciated

 

[bugsymike]

Evening all, I've got a similar situation. Same engine but different make and model - a Chevy Aveo (Corsa underneath but all the same 1.3 diesel - 95bhp). It's 2013 and done 140k. Came across this after extensive googling!

The car struggles on acceleration in 2nd and 3rd up to around 3000 rpm and then the turbo finally kicks in. MAF checked and cleaned, MAP checked and cleaned. I've got a P003A code - "boost pressure control A - learning limit exceeded.

I've checked the actuator - it moves freely but I've sprayed it with WD40 anyway just to be sure. It makes a similar squidgy noise OP mentioned when I move it with my hand but I assume this is okay?

I've seen things suggesting a new turbo as the vanes inside could be stuck. Before I go this far though, could it have something to do with the valve / solenoid? I've checked the pipes and it looks to me that they're okay? One goes straight to the turbo from the valve and the other goes to the back of the engine somewhere - but no cracks or cuts etc. Turbo has a very very small amount of oil on it when I check every 300 miles or so.

Is this something the valve can cause and is worth changing? I read something about a "sponge" inside it that needs cleaning?

I made this account literally just for this question as I'm excited I'm starting to get somewhere - this problem has been on my mind for about 6 months since I bought the car! Any help would be much appreciated

One of my vehicles is a 2014 Vauxhall Combo with the 1.3MJ engine it doesn't have the variable vane turbo, but obviously has most of the vacuum operated solenoids that actuate/control the turbo.
On a 1.6 Doblo van I have I tried changing that solenoid for another issue, from memory there was part of it that has a small foam breather/filter, unless badly blocked I doubt it is related to your problem.
I would first check all vacuum pipes for leaks, you could even try fitting a vacuum gauge with a T piece to check vacuum as driving. Though remember there is also the electrical side controlled by the ECU for that operation and it can be related to EGR control and other things that use the same vacuum supply. On the 1.6 MJ the problen turned out to be a small leak at a gasket where the EGR connects to the inlet manifold on a three bolt flange.
Another point are you 100% certain the turbo is working correctly and if VVT the control lever is moving fully to it's stops in both directions.
One of ,my daughters had a VW Golf 1.9 TDI 130hp that due to short journeys the turbo gummed up and went into Limp Mode due to actuator arm not moving fully in both directions, I freed it off with the turbo cleaner foam etc. then got her to put turbo cleaning additive in with her fuel which cured the problem, but car was much better after a good fast run.
Another thing to check is even if turbo working correctly it can loose pressure by the time it gets to the MAP sensor etc. on the inlet manifold for various reasons, such as leaking turbo hose clips, split in turbo pipes , hole in intercooler etc. non of these may be visible until a smoke test shows it up.
Also don't rely on an error code pointing to the exact problem, it can be something that has a side affect of bringing up that error code.
On a different note, it would be better for all on Forum including yourself to start a new post rather than tagging on to an old on as although a similar issue it needs the full details of your vehicle plus the problem and history of the fault you have as there can be many different causes.