Hi all,
Is there a specific reset procedure for P0115 on a 2012 Panda 1.2 8v, or a certain number of good runs I need to do?
I've just replaced the thermostat seal and in doing so, I disconnected the coolant temperature sensor to get more access to clean up the mating surface.
Once refitted and refilled, I started the car but had forgotten to reconnect the coolant temperature sensor. Got a "Check Engine" message and an engine light, and code scan gave me P0115. Reconnected the sensor, started up - engine light was off and no message on the dash, but code was still present. I tried to clear and it did, but on restarting the car it reappears (still no engine light though). Is there a routine needed to validate the repair and allow the code to be cleared permanently?
FWIW, I have checked the coolant temp and inlet air temp readings (as I believe that can also set P0115 on these) over a 10min idle and the readings look clean and plausible. I don't think there's an air lock as I spent a decent amount of time bleeding it and fairly confident all air is out. I ran it to temp and the rad fan came on, radiator was warm, hoses all warm, and cabin heater warm.
Is there a specific reset procedure for P0115 on a 2012 Panda 1.2 8v, or a certain number of good runs I need to do?
I've just replaced the thermostat seal and in doing so, I disconnected the coolant temperature sensor to get more access to clean up the mating surface.
Once refitted and refilled, I started the car but had forgotten to reconnect the coolant temperature sensor. Got a "Check Engine" message and an engine light, and code scan gave me P0115. Reconnected the sensor, started up - engine light was off and no message on the dash, but code was still present. I tried to clear and it did, but on restarting the car it reappears (still no engine light though). Is there a routine needed to validate the repair and allow the code to be cleared permanently?
FWIW, I have checked the coolant temp and inlet air temp readings (as I believe that can also set P0115 on these) over a 10min idle and the readings look clean and plausible. I don't think there's an air lock as I spent a decent amount of time bleeding it and fairly confident all air is out. I ran it to temp and the rad fan came on, radiator was warm, hoses all warm, and cabin heater warm.
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