Styling Opinions on modding my 5 door ?

[12[X]]

I have and can tell you, that you are wrong.

what is the bhp difference then? I still maintain that sucking hot air in via induction kit is not much better than getting cold air via high flow k&n panel filter - especially if you are not driving on empty open roads – it’s just common sense! If you did route cold air to your cone intake - then yes it'll make a noticeable difference

I'd love to come to the meet - but am
a) too ashamed of my stilo (it lives outside.. and some nice 4x4 owner took my whole near side off.. have hammered it out but panels were stretched beyond what was possible to correct, at least for me)
b) am just too old and ain't got the time

still - if someone needs mechanical things done (or diagnostics etc) & is willing to work on me damaged bodywork (you will need to know what you are doing ) in return & lives near london – get in touch

PS: rear windows are easy to remove (if you know what you are doing)

 

[Morty Mort]

[quote='12[X]]
PS: rear windows are easy to remove (if you know what you are doing)[/quote]

What? I thought I knew what I was doing... Can you tell me and I'll be outside pretty fast. How do you unhook the window when every possible thing is removed, unclipped and loosened. It is still attached on one side. I've tried every possible tool to get in there and snap/bend it out, but I dare not pull too hard in case I break something.

The big question: Have you removed a rear door window on Stilo?

 

[Dogspods]

...reversing in areas with no light is very difficult (but not impossible). The law seems to be that you are allowed to use a 70% Block on the rears and 30% on fronts (not windscreen). I think!!! Any reputable tint shop will be able to advice you. I paid £200 for mine with a tint strip on the front (much better than a sun strip as it go's on the inside, blends in well with the window, is completely legal for MOT and you can see the trafic lights through it)

hhhhmmmm, let me see :chin:

£200 tints which make basic driving manoeuvres difficult in poor light, need to be declared with insurance company (leading to possible denying of a claim) and narrow the appeal on re-sale

against...

£45 quality blinds that can be removed in seconds, look no different from tints at a distance and cause no other hassle

 

[12[X]]

Once you loosen/remove everything you can (two lower * screws on side strips/sills cannot be gotten to – as you well know) – unhook the glass from its holder (there is a pop access hole – you will see it once door card is removed) - you will need to slowly move the glass (using handle supplied obviously) until you see a plastic catch: unclip that (be careful it is hard.. so if you are using a metal screwdriver and it slips...) --> using your hands (you need to be on outer side of the door) pull glass towards you and move it up (idea is to move outer edge of the glass out of its “track” path as the other side has a plastic runner that holds it in the door – that’s what you had trouble with) --> when the glass is as far at the top as it will go and its been taken a bit out of the outer track push it and turn towards the catch (that’s been bugging you) --> when you clear the lower edge -->twist the glass same direction (counter clockwise) pulling it towards you and out. Like i said easy (done it 4 times now)

PS. I work for parts too

 

[Oldschool]

what is the bhp difference then? I still maintain that sucking hot air in via induction kit is not much better than getting cold air via high flow k&n panel filter - especially if you are not driving on empty open roads – it’s just common sense! If you did route cold air to your cone intake - then yes it'll make a noticeable difference

I know all of that. But you are referring to induction s**ts and not to induction kits.

I spend my whole life with designing them and do it the right way, which is the reason, why they perfrom.

 

[Argonought]

hhhhmmmm, let me see :chin:

£200 tints which make basic driving manoeuvres difficult in poor light, need to be declared with insurance company (leading to possible denying of a claim) and narrow the appeal on re-sale

against...

£45 quality blinds that can be removed in seconds, look no different from tints at a distance and cause no other hassle

Quite agree

Comments like:

...i do have dark tints and reversing in areas with no light is very difficult (but not impossible).

seem to match up with comments from other posters such as (after having car lowered) "If I drive really carefully I can clear most speed bumps and the others only scrape a little"

Based on my simple logic, it seems reasonable enough to pay for extra convenience, ease of use & comfort - but why the hell anyone would want to pay out to gain the opposite is beyond me

 

[Morty Mort]

Once you loosen/remove everything you can (two lower * screws on side strips/sills cannot be gotten to – as you well know) – unhook the glass from its holder (there is a pop access hole – you will see it once door card is removed) - you will need to slowly move the glass (using handle supplied obviously) until you see a plastic catch: unclip that (be careful it is hard.. so if you are using a metal screwdriver and it slips...) --> using your hands (you need to be on outer side of the door) pull glass towards you and move it up (idea is to move outer edge of the glass out of its “track” path as the other side has a plastic runner that holds it in the door – that’s what you had trouble with) --> when the glass is as far at the top as it will go and its been taken a bit out of the outer track push it and turn towards the catch (that’s been bugging you) --> when you clear the lower edge -->twist the glass same direction (counter clockwise) pulling it towards you and out. Like i said easy (done it 4 times now)

PS. I work for parts too

Aha! Yes, it's the plastic runner - didn't know the English name... The lower clip is peanuts, and I've always used a wooden tool. I have also tried pulling the glass up on the outside of the door frame, but I'm not sure about "push and turn towards the catch", as in what catch?

Here's my old thread: https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/113409-remove-rear-door-windows.html

 

[12[X]]

gm i might open up the door again (could be a few months though - got too much work at the moment) - will take pics and make a how to (apologies - this is really easy to show - it is however very difficult to explain, especially with my limited English).

For now though: plastic catch is a basic flat runner – so assuming you pull your window glass high enough to clear the right brace (runner is at the top left if you are working on passenger side)– all you do is turn the glass (counter clockwise) to move the catch (and glass) so that it is an angle to its track – all you do then is keep pushing the glass down at that same angle and the runner will clear (track is semi rigid)
So if || is the track and \ is a runner – that’s how the ‘remove’ position looks
| |
| \
|| \
||
||

Hope this helps

 

[Morty Mort]

Think I understand.

Limited English here aswell... The passenger side is the opposite regarding my car I guess, but basically I have to lift (horrible writing ahead) "the end facing the car's rear" end of the glass up and push it down into the door frame again and then pull it up and out after the plastic runner is set free.

M.

 

[12[X]]

if only others understood me as well as you did (specially the opposite sex)

 

[volxstu]

Quite agree

Comments like:
seem to match up with comments from other posters such as (after having car lowered) "If I drive really carefully I can clear most speed bumps and the others only scrape a little"

Based on my simple logic, it seems reasonable enough to pay for extra convenience, ease of use & comfort - but why the hell anyone would want to pay out to gain the opposite is beyond me

That is a minor inconvenience for me lol, the sub and enclosure in the boot weighs around the 70 KG mk, then the battery which is going in there weighs around 28kg then you have amps wiring and soon heavy deadening and drawing masses of power from the ALT. The car driving the best isnt something that bothers me. Yes i have to concertrate a little more but im a 23 yr Old with a like for speed so is that such a bad thing After a couple of weeks you get used to it so it is no bane on my life whatsoever.

 

[Morty Mort]

if only others understood me as well as you did (specially the opposite sex)

Well, understanding hasn't much to do with language, and that means women aswell. As my undertitle says - nobody blames the happy guy.

 

[12[X]]

gm you've been so nice! even a thank you me conscience made me think (and remember all the nasty things.. i normally try to forget as soon as possible - this allows me to happily start working on the car again.. seeing as i don't remember the hell it put me through last time) and here's the result: was wrong on 2 counts

a) the 'hack' method = move glass half way down then, pushing in opposite direction from the track/catch and up at the same time - apply an enormous amount of force (also twist as much as you can towards yourself) This will damage the track a bit (after 4 times it sounds as though the window is not fully closed when driving on motorways)
b) ‘Proper way as i understand it’: remove door card --> undo glass catch --> move glass to top position and fix it there --> disconnect speaker + door wiring + lock plugs/catch (you need to pull a plastic pin then push the clip in – i think there are 2) --> alternative to previous step is to undo lock bolts on the outside of the lock hence allowing one to keep it fixed to the mid/card (this = easier to r2asemble afterwards) -->remove 5 bolts [size 10 || 8] (could be more.. me memory isn’t that good) fixing middle card to the outer door (it will come out with window mechanism and all) --> remove glass by lowering it and pulling towards inside of the cabin [estimated time 1 hour]

Will try to see if eLearn can confirm procedure b (personally - can’t think of any other way not to damage anything) – could be a while though

 

[Dogspods]

That is a minor inconvenience for me lol, the sub and enclosure in the boot weighs around the 70 KG mk, then the battery which is going in there weighs around 28kg then you have amps wiring and soon heavy deadening and drawing masses of power from the ALT. The car driving the best isnt something that bothers me. Yes i have to concertrate a little more but im a 23 yr Old with a like for speed so is that such a bad thing After a couple of weeks you get used to it so it is no bane on my life whatsoever.

....so basically it's all show and no go??

....with resale options that 99% have cancelled out part ex - and now only appeals to a small minority??

on the other hand tho, I have to admire the level of your ice install, but knowing your borderline OCD-esque attention to detail I wouldn't have expected anything else

 

[Argonought]

That is a minor inconvenience for me lol, the sub and enclosure in the boot weighs around the 70 KG mk, then the battery which is going in there weighs around 28kg then you have amps wiring and soon heavy deadening and drawing masses of power from the ALT. The car driving the best isnt something that bothers me. Yes i have to concertrate a little more but im a 23 yr Old with a like for speed so is that such a bad thing After a couple of weeks you get used to it so it is no bane on my life whatsoever.

Gota hand it to you - you truly are the ICE King

I remember I long time ago when I installed some rather expensive Pioneer kit into my VW Scirocco that it sounded so good I actually preferred listening to tapes (this was a time before CDs) in the car rather than in the living room. I also preferred to be stationary with the engine turned off as that way you could hear a pin drop

Mind you it weighed a hell of lot less than 100 Kg

 

[OzMoSiS]

lol hes a basshead, thats got nothing to do with attention to detail

give him a coulpe of months with what hes doing and his car will flex enough to deform and possibly break in places.

then obviously the hearing aid will follow at that tender age :shrug:

 

[volxstu]

then obviously the hearing aid will follow at that tender age :shrug:

Pardon ......
It really is actually just a mess atm TBH and i somehow melted the fuse holder so cant turn it up if i wanted. Im hoping that it was just moisture geting in and arching the fuse, but a quick scope tomo will soon show up any probs. (I just need to learn how to use a proper scope :bang
Soon enough though i am aiming for 141 DB from one 12" sub
Edit: The i will not be selling the car so its resale value doesn't interest me, eventually i will get a daily driver and then i can think about walling the Stilo using 2 Strocker pro's. It wont be insanely loud but i want a drivable car that will drive hitting around 149db and actually sounding good. I have found that a lot of bass cars arent very musical so i will use high quality components etc and four 8" mid drivers on the rear floor with the 2 subs above them.

 

[ICOD]

best of luck and do let us know how your K&N filter behaves

I have fitted a k+n and it has definately improved my 1.6's low rev sluggishness!

Dont know about you but my 1.6 was really horrible until 2500-3000rpm then it was lovely. The k+n has sorted that and my trip to scotland proved that it is more fuel effecient also. I have fed the cold air in through the original grill cold air intake as i have completely removed the old air filter system.

The reason alot of folk think K+N uses more fuel is because they only make the grunting noise at high revs so............most lads rev them high all the time which obviously uses more fuel!

Anyway, im off to attempt to fit a 1.2 6speed gearbox into my 1.6!!!

Good luck to you