Technical oil drain plug too deep

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Technical oil drain plug too deep

Many years ago, I bought a hex key for the plug on my classic Panda. (probably 1994) It is a short key, only about 100mm long, so prevents much force being used. I often have to use a larger tool to remove the plug, but always use the short one to refit it.
Your comment about using that hex key makes a good point PB. As I'm well known around here as being a man who "knows about cars" - a debatable point I'd suggest! - I've been asked more than once, to help loosen wheel nuts/bolts which have been tightened to such an extant that the wheel brace that comes with the car can't apply enough leverage to slacken them. They are invariably impressed when I deploy my 2ft long power bar and witness the loud "crack" as the nut/bolt is forced to surrender.
 
I made this from an old Torx bit, it fits nice and snug in the plug and then a 12mm socket or ring spanner.
 

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Your comment about using that hex key makes a good point PB. As I'm well known around here as being a man who "knows about cars" - a debatable point I'd suggest! - I've been asked more than once, to help loosen wheel nuts/bolts which have been tightened to such an extant that the wheel brace that comes with the car can't apply enough leverage to slacken them. They are invariably impressed when I deploy my 2ft long power bar and witness the loud "crack" as the nut/bolt is forced to surrender.
Sorry, I meant to finish this off by saying that having slackened these nuts/bolts I'm often asked how tight they should then be done up to once the wheel has been refitted. Assuming a torque wrench is not available, you won't be too far off the mark if you use the wrench supplied with the vehicle and do the fixings up as tight as you can just using your hands and arms - ie. not by jumping on it! much the same thinking as that behind what PB was saying about the Allen key he bought to do his old Panda. I suspect the car manufacturers make these wrenches so you can't apply enough force to shear or strip threads? Having done that, if you're unsure as to whether they are tight enough, you could always call at your local garage and ask them to check them. Which is probably advisable if you don't have much experience of this sort of thing.
 
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Yep, undo the wheel bolts with a long breaker, fit them using the vehicle's own tool. Difficult to overtighten them with the original tool. Then, it should be possible to use that on the roadside.

Japanese motorcycles often use bolts with smaller than usual heads, to avoid overtightening. Smaller bolt sizes usually means shorter spanners.
 
I've noticed that - the smaller bolt heads I mean. never dawned on me that that's why!

All this talk about wheel nuts and wrenches etc assumes, of course, that you've got a car with a spare and jack/wheel brace! None of the most recent family acquisitions has. I've managed to get a space saver wheel, jack and wheel brace for the Mazda from a specialist place down in the midlands, although they sent the wrong size of wheel first time round.
 
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