It only specifies 10w50 in the manual. I think that the 5w40 oil was stated in the past for the standard A500 and the 10w50 for the SS. My manual only states 10w50 for both versions.
Technical Oil Change
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Technical Oil Change
It only specifies 10w50 in the manual. I think that the 5w40 oil was stated in the past for the standard A500 and the 10w50 for the SS. My manual only states 10w50 for both versions.
My local specialist is seemingly first and foremost Alfa. He does Fiat as well, but he is an independent.
Concerning the price of Selenia, it's still overpriced imo. I have seen shop4parts prices and yes they are cheaper for Selenia than just about anywhere else I have seen but imo, once the VAT (that is what ruins the price for me - wish I lived in Jersey!) has been shoved on top of their base price and you've forked out for delivery, I might as well get it from a Fiat dealer. I'm more than happy to buy a similar spec oil from Opie Oils. Their prices appear extremely good, even with postage.
Concerning potential overfill. I have never personally had this problem doing my own oil/filter change and I've done at least twenty over the years. I ensure that the oil has drained as completely from the engine as is possible (I always take the dipstick out and make sure the oil filler cap is off during draining). I use a two litre chefs measuring jug with proper fluid measurement readings and I refill the engine with exactly the amount of oil as stated in the handbook for an oil/filter change. In all of the oil changes I ever carried out, I never once after I had turned the engine over to fill the oil filter and let it settle, had to add any more oil immediately after an oil change just to 'get it right' on the dipstick. It has always been bang on on the mark.
You don't get low temperatures so a 10wXX would be better for you as opposed to a 5wXX or a 0wXX oil. I would always religiously stick to the XX number though tbh.
it is 2011 not 1951
modern multigrades mean that for normal use the standard oil as recommended is suitable for all year use
No no no no! A 5wXX oil is suitable for somewhere like the UK where you will see some fairly cool temperatures and a bit of below 0 action during the winter. In Cyprus you really want to stick with the manufacturers specification for a warm climate. Like Rob says, it's 2011 not 1951.
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er... IIRC the Spanish National Anthem has no official lyrics.
Yup - you win the prize. There are no words to the Spanish national anthem.
Your prize is a 5 minute lecture on winter tyres from Maxi.
(Second prize is a 10 minute lecture on winter tyres from Maxi...)
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Oh!! praise the Lord I was so wide of the mark and didn't win!
I've donated my prize to a couple of Jehovah's Witnesses.
"...the end of the world is coming... unless of course you've fitted winter tyres..."
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I would like to change my suggestion on the use of 5W40
and agree with the recommendations before me. I would also suggest changing the filter as well since you don't want a 'mix' of the different oils.The sticky on the A500 handbook does state 10W50 ACEA C3 despite a number of 'standard' A500 'drivers' using the lighter 5W40 Selenia KPE (ACEA C3). 10W50 ACEA C3 it is the only oil that will safeguard your warranty looking at the 'current' handbook.
For the benefit of US members the Fiat Abarth 500 multi-air uses 5W40 ACEA C3 along with the European Punto Evo multi-air in both standard & esseese variants.
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I've donated my prize to a couple of Jehovah's Witnesses.
"...the end of the world is coming... unless of course you've fitted winter tyres..."
Don't give me any ideas
Caravadossi
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??
One way to identify a Low SAPs oil is to look for an ACEA ‘C’ classification – C1, C2, C3 or C4 (It doesn’t necessarily follow that C1, is better or worst than C2, C3 or C4 – they are just different). ACEA (The European Automobile Manufacturers Association) sets standards for engine oils in Europe and its specification for Low SAPS oils begins with a ‘C’. However, most vehicle manufacturers have their own specifications for Low SAPS oils which can make the job of identifying the right oil for your vehicle quite complicated.http://www.commaoil.com/diesel-particulate-filters
Perhaps I failed to make it understandable. The oil I’ve in mind to use in my 1.9/16v is Fuchs TITAN GT1 Pro C-2 5W-30. It isn’t “specific” to FIAT. It’s an A1/B1, A5/B5, C2, SM/CF formula (& consequently good for all engines within that envelope). Recommended for FIAT (9.55535-S1) & Citroen/Peugeot.
Ideally it would be good if Unipart had adopted it & labelled it as part of their range in 5L size (4L won’t do the job) – but I don’t think they’ve taken it up. The last time I enquired, Unipart recommended I stay with my then current oil Unipart Fully-Syn 5W-40 (Fuchs TITAN Supersyn 5W-40 A3/B4 SM/CF FIAT 9.55535-H2/M2/N2/Z2). At the next oil change, I asked for the “German oil” (meaning `same again’) – but this was misinterpreted as VAG Quantum Platinum (Castrol) 5W-40 A3 B3 C3 SL/CF. At the next change (an indie Alfa/FIAT shop) they put in Selenia WR 5W-40.
The Fuchs TITAN GT1 Pro C-3 5W-30 is a A3/B4, C3, formula. Approved for BMW, MB & VW.
Obviously there is variation between the C specs – otherwise there wouldn’t be the range of formula available. But if C3 were perceived to be better than C2 – then presumably there wouldn’t be a lot of call for C2.
If you argue that C3 is "better” than C2 for your model – then use that. After all … “a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest.”
111123
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You have to trust the manufacturer to make the decision for you. Sure if you put a C2 oil in the engine isn't going to seize within 5 miles or anything......
But using the tool you posted there are clear advantages to the C3 oil over the C2 one. Of course the C2 oil has better fuel consumption than the C3 oil so it's not as clear as C3 > C2. BUt in terms of protection for your engine, C3 > C2. If I was a hypermiler I'm sure I'd chuck C2 oil in, but I'm not so I'll go for protection.
But using the tool you posted there are clear advantages to the C3 oil over the C2 one. Of course the C2 oil has better fuel consumption than the C3 oil so it's not as clear as C3 > C2. BUt in terms of protection for your engine, C3 > C2. If I was a hypermiler I'm sure I'd chuck C2 oil in, but I'm not so I'll go for protection.
Wholeheartedly agree with your statement above Maxi. The manufacturer designed and built the engine in the first place. Lots of technical research went into development and into deciding which lubricant would be the best for that particular engine. People get sucked into the whole thing about claims made by different oil developers. I personally haven't got a clue about the scientific makeup of engine lubricants, I've carried out no scientific studies and I certainly don't have the relevant technical qualifications to start stripping away the formulae of lubricant makeup. It's probably safer all round just to stick with the spec (not necessarily the brand mind you) of oil that they deem the most suitable for their product.
rockaroller
Member
I'd also agree this is an excellent place to start.
I'd just add that the manufacturer's recommendations have to cover a wide range of operating conditions, and from an engine's perspective, a 5 mile winter commute in the Welsh mountains is very different from towing a caravan 500 miles down an Italian motorway in the middle of August. If you know you are going to be operating at the extremes of what the manufacturer might consider normal use, there is a valid argument for thinking intelligently about any servicing recommendations, both in terms of the actual lubricants & parts used, and the frequency at which they are changed. So for someone living in Greece & driving mostly longer journeys, moving up to a higher viscosity oil in the summer might make good sense - and I'm considering (but only considering, mind you) whether running an 0/30 oil over the winter might be better for both engine wear & fuel economy on a car which will never be driven above 2500rpm/55mph.
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Well 0wXX oils are really only meant for really cold climates like Scandinavia and Eastern Europe. I'm sure that during the last couple of winters perhaps we would have benefited, but on average a 5w oil is a better bet. Also, a 0w30 oil will be thinner and provide less protection when warm than Fiat budgeted on by putting 5W40 in.
That's my understanding of course and I'm happy to be proven wrong
Notwithstanding your well thought out and intelligent assumptions of the different operating conditions, if Fiat thought their 500 engines would run better on a 0/30 oil during the winter period, wouldn't they specifically recommend that in their service manual? Again and no disrespect intended, you could be perceived as intimating that you believe you know what is best for an engine you had no part in designing or building. Using Fiats' recommended spec of oil all year round is hardly going to harm the car and of course, there won't be any warranty issues, but, as always, it is your personal decision at the end of the day.
I was just doing a bit of random reading on a few forums and had to laugh.
I use 0w40 and it works great for me!
I use 5w40 and it's fantastic!
Use 0w30!!!! It's spot on!
Do these people actually open up their engine each time they do an oil change, completely disassemble the engine and check the wear levels of cam lobes, cylinder bores and pistons?
If not then how do they actually know whether one grade of oil is better for the car than the previous grade of oil they had in? Bearing in mind that they're comparing nice clean new oil to old scummy oil which has lost a lot of its performance. This is just like the whole tyre thing where Mr Moron has some Michelin's which are on the wear markers and he replaces them with a Pneumant or some other such crap that the tyre place are offering. Suddenly the car isn't skating all over the road in the wet like it was before, ergo Mr Moron concludes that Pneumant's are just fine and every bit the equal of the Michelin. If Mr Moron actually got the chance to test a brand new Michelin against a Pneumant or whatever on a skidpan then he'd realise that it's unfair to compare a brand new budget tyre to a 99% worn premium tyre......
Perhaps I'm wrong, but I would always take these recommendations of different viscosities with a bag of salt. Sure, if you're going to be pounding along der Autobahn listening to der Kraftwerk @ 160kph for hours unt hours then perhaps you might be better off going from a 5w40 to a 5w50, but for most of us the oil specified in the book will be the best one to choose.
I use 0w40 and it works great for me!
I use 5w40 and it's fantastic!
Use 0w30!!!! It's spot on!
Do these people actually open up their engine each time they do an oil change, completely disassemble the engine and check the wear levels of cam lobes, cylinder bores and pistons?
If not then how do they actually know whether one grade of oil is better for the car than the previous grade of oil they had in? Bearing in mind that they're comparing nice clean new oil to old scummy oil which has lost a lot of its performance. This is just like the whole tyre thing where Mr Moron has some Michelin's which are on the wear markers and he replaces them with a Pneumant or some other such crap that the tyre place are offering. Suddenly the car isn't skating all over the road in the wet like it was before, ergo Mr Moron concludes that Pneumant's are just fine and every bit the equal of the Michelin. If Mr Moron actually got the chance to test a brand new Michelin against a Pneumant or whatever on a skidpan then he'd realise that it's unfair to compare a brand new budget tyre to a 99% worn premium tyre......
Perhaps I'm wrong, but I would always take these recommendations of different viscosities with a bag of salt. Sure, if you're going to be pounding along der Autobahn listening to der Kraftwerk @ 160kph for hours unt hours then perhaps you might be better off going from a 5w40 to a 5w50, but for most of us the oil specified in the book will be the best one to choose.
