Great work there - thanks
Technical No oil light but immobiliser light stays on
- Thread starter dgpphotography
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Technical No oil light but immobiliser light stays on
But I was forgetting what Robert told me some years back that an ELM cable able to use CAN bus is much better for multiecuscan than my K-line cable
dgpphotography
Member
Brilliant! But how much I can digest we will have to see!!
As an update, I’ve removed the battery & fuse box to release all the plugs to do a visual check. All seems fine so I’ve done a continuity test with a couple of wires/connections between ecu plug nearest radiator and the large black plug from fuse box. Trying to identify wires common to both plugs to test. Interestingly enough I can get no continuity tone from the test meter when I test the red wire! As I’ve only just started this mamouth task it might just be an error on my part, but with 20 - 30 to check........practice makes perfect!
I’ll have a visual check on the k-line wire at both plugs as well. Plan is to check a few more then plug everything back in. I’ll screen shot any messages I get from a scan and get back to you.
As an aside, what lights should I see when the ignition is on - see above.
Cheers
As an update, I’ve removed the battery & fuse box to release all the plugs to do a visual check. All seems fine so I’ve done a continuity test with a couple of wires/connections between ecu plug nearest radiator and the large black plug from fuse box. Trying to identify wires common to both plugs to test. Interestingly enough I can get no continuity tone from the test meter when I test the red wire! As I’ve only just started this mamouth task it might just be an error on my part, but with 20 - 30 to check........practice makes perfect!
I’ll have a visual check on the k-line wire at both plugs as well. Plan is to check a few more then plug everything back in. I’ll screen shot any messages I get from a scan and get back to you.
As an aside, what lights should I see when the ignition is on - see above.
Cheers
Red round Temperature warning light at top of temperature gauge and oil light.
The rev counter should show your revs of about 150 when you crank the engine.
Perhaps Earth wires are causing a problem? There is a block of earth wires under the battery attached to the same bolt that holds the gearbox earth half way down its length.
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dgpphotography
Member
Thanks for this.
I’ll double check these earth wires next. Definitely not showing the oil and temp warning lights.
Beginning to feel like a poor mans’ detective.....more Clouseau than Morse!
The red wire in the black plug (looking inside and guessing/inspecting location) seems to be at location black plug 07 (fuse box has numbers) has continuity at red wire on ECU radiator plug (B) B18. I found initially I could not trace the red B18. My meter probe does not reach 07 on the black plug.
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dgpphotography
Member
I was trying the continuity test with both plugs removed and battery disconnected (both terminals). That way the probes were easier to reach. Need to acquire some adapters for my ELM327 cable (on order) so will go quiet for a few days.
I was trying the continuity test with both plugs removed and battery disconnected (both terminals). That way the probes were easier to reach. Need to acquire some adapters for my ELM327 cable (on order) so will go quiet for a few days.
I had the plugs disconnected. The tip of my probe looked like it was touching the 07 of the black plug but I was getting no results. The best way was to wrap some wire around the probe and then insert the wire into 07.
I wish now I had traced out the two CAN bus wires from the diagnostic port to the Engine ECU.
I was trying the continuity test with both plugs removed and battery disconnected (both terminals). That way the probes were easier to reach. Need to acquire some adapters for my ELM327 cable (on order) so will go quiet for a few days.
You seem to be emphasising the success of your failure to find continuity on the red wire rather than seeing I had to successfully overcome some difficulties being successful at finding continuity on the red wire.
Can you confirm by putting a test wire into the black plug connector that you cannot measure continuity between ECU radiator plug pin 18 and pin 07 on the black fuse box plug?
The punto ECU wiring is not well thought out. Every time the battery and battery tray is removed you have to disturb these important wires. Quite possibly this is how this fault has arisen when the battery was replaced.
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dgpphotography
Member
You seem to be emphasising the success of your failure to find continuity on the red wire rather than seeing I had to successfully overcome some difficulties being successful at finding continuity on the red wire.
Can you confirm by putting a test wire into the black plug connector that you cannot measure continuity between ECU radiator plug pin 18 and pin 07 on the black fuse box plug?
The punto ECU wiring is not well thought out. Every time the battery and battery tray is removed you have to disturb these important wires. Quite possibly this is how this fault has arisen when the battery was replaced.
Yep, that’s me, always celebrating my failures!
Ok here are some shots of wires in place for the tester. Granted the ecu plug was a pain and took a fair amount of trial and error on wire thickness before I was able to get a deep enough connection.
However, after several tests I still get no continuity.
dgpphotography
Member
Thanks for that but once again I have to report a no go. Changed and tried different wires in both but with no joy. Tempted to put a small break in the plastic covering a couple of cm from each end and see if there is continuity between there and the respective plug before trying between the two breaks.
What do you think?
But it does not get you much further if you do that. And if you just renew the wire the
problem is you don't know why that wire is broken and if it touching something it should not at the break.
It seems best to remove the insulation and see why the wire has broken.
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I renewed my engine insulation with this same Tesa 51026 tape. It made a really neat job of it and i only used half a roll.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErYceipBCS8&t=72s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErYceipBCS8&t=72s
dgpphotography
Member
Agreed
That said, I just put 2 small nicks in the wire and there IS continuity between the nick and plug at either end but NOT between the nicks.
So, on to stripping the loom to see where the break is, or at least to see if there is any wear and contact with something else. Having noticed the wear on a couple of wires from the ribbed cover it might well be there.
Here goes nothing.....
Agreed
That said, I just put 2 small nicks in the wire and there IS continuity between the nick and plug at either end but NOT between the nicks.
So, on to stripping the loom to see where the break is, or at least to see if there is any wear and contact with something else. Having noticed the wear on a couple of wires from the ribbed cover it might well be there.
Here goes nothing.....
Good luck. I know I felt much much better once i had those zillion wires covered up and out of sight!
dgpphotography
Member
BOOM!
5 minutes in and what looks like a small break in the outer cover has let water in - corrosion central!
I’ll let you guys know what happens next- continuity from either side back to the plugs so this is the likely culprit!!!
Attachments
dgpphotography
Member
All back together - spliced in a repair piece of wire using heat shrink solder joints. Once everything was restored in relevant places, key was turned and it was like Blackpool illumination. Hello engine warning light, hello temp and oil lights and hello fuel pump.
Turned the key and engine fired!
Turned the key and engine fired!
dgpphotography
Member
Has to be said...thanks a million sir, your advice and guidance has kept me going, especially on helping identify the correct pins to check the wire.
Really, really appreciate it
