Technical No heater

[The Panda Nut]

I did the matrix on my 04 panda, same at the same era 500

Far from easy, but not terrible

GUIDE on here from those days

Im still hoping cleaner or a fill with lemon juice may resolve it. But thanks I will certaily look out the guide. I have an idea ref the warranty of this too.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Put your hand on the two pipes that go to the heater matrix

If there not getting hot, I wouldn't drive the car until it's fixed

Why so? One is hot the other is cold or not very warm. Otherwise its fine normal temperature gauge and no water loss. I will change the thermostat I think as a matter of course. No signs of either over or under heating.

I think if the heater matrix need doing Pandabird 3 will be history. I couldnt be bothered with that much work.

 

[koalar]

With the blowers off, heater on cold

The matrix inlet and outlet should be very similar

If it's not you have a circulation problem

Air lock,.blocked matrix

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Why so? One is hot the other is cold or not very warm. Otherwise its fine normal temperature gauge and no water loss. I will change the thermostat I think as a matter of course. No signs of either over or under heating.

I think if the heater matrix need doing Pandabird 3 will be history. I couldnt be bothered with that much work.

I’ve not really studied the heater plumbing. But, can you reach the under-bonnet ends of the two hoses and disconnect them? And, if so can they be flushed through with a garden hose? If they not both getting warm that might suggest no water’s flowing round that way at the moment?

Edit: just spotted @koalar was posting at the same time. My other suggestion was going to be air lock. Again, not looked on the Panda but there’s often an air bleed in the heater hose.

 

[koalar]

Obviously if you have the blowers are on hot the hoses will be different temperatures as it's working just like the radiator and fan on the front of the car, cooling the engine

But with the heater on cold and the blowers off it's acting just like a long pipe so inlet and outlet should be very similar

This works on the 169,.I can't see the 312.beening different

Remove.the bleed.screw on idle

Top up untill coolant flows.out.it should not be streaming bubbles a few is fine

Don't rev the car otherwise you will end up with a fountain 6 foot high

If it's flows fairly bubble free

I'd start by flushing the matrix in both directions, most likely option from the sounds of it

It pretty simple.to.flush in both directions until the water flows freely and clear, a hose pipe without a nozzle can be held on , nly takes a few minutes to do but you will need a couple of new jubilee clips

I let the coolant flow onto the gravel, but I wash it off so as not to poison the cats,

I'd try and advoid changing the matrix, it's a very simple job but third party ones tend to leak between the matrix and the ridged black pipes unless they are swapped for a matching set

If there a stream of bubbles and they don't stop, it would be worth doing a block test first, just to eliminate any possibly of combustion gasses entering the system

There are some videos on YouTube flushing using citric acid, probably not a good idea unless you fancy springing a leak months or years down the road

 

[koalar]

Why so? One is hot the other is cold or not very warm. Otherwise its fine normal temperature gauge and no water loss. I will change the thermostat I think as a matter of course. No signs of either over or under heating.

I think if the heater matrix need doing Pandabird 3 will be history. I couldnt be bothered with that much work.

Heater matrix is a 15 minute job ?

Less if you done one before

Common problem on some cars like.a.corsa,. normally just need flushing and not replacing

 

[The Panda Nut]

I’ve not really studied the heater plumbing. But, can you reach the under-bonnet ends of the two hoses and disconnect them? And, if so can they be flushed through with a garden hose? If they not both getting warm that might suggest no water’s flowing round that way at the moment?

Edit: just spotted @koalar was posting at the same time. My other suggestion was going to be air lock. Again, not looked on the Panda but there’s often an air bleed in the heater hose.

Okay a flush is my first job. I think I would have to loose a few bits but you can at least see the hose clips, so this is what Im hoping to do first. I think the battery, airbox and throttle body and the battery tray with the ecus would need to go for best access but thats failry easy. I am also going to try a radiator cleaner probably a Holts one first then if that doesent work a Liqui Moly one, then remove hoses and flush with a hose as suggested and re fix the hoses and try it filled with water. Hopefully it wont need two goes! I can refill with new coolant ionce it works again.

 

[varesecrazy]

Okay a flush is my first job. I think I would have to loose a few bits but you can at least see the hose clips, so this is what Im hoping to do first. I think the battery, airbox and throttle body and the battery tray with the ecus would need to go for best access but thats failry easy. I am also going to try a radiator cleaner probably a Holts one first then if that doesent work a Liqui Moly one, then remove hoses and flush with a hose as suggested and re fix the hoses and try it filled with water. Hopefully it wont need two goes! I can refill with new coolant ionce it works again.

That sounds like A Lot of work,

I would just try Bleeding it and see what it tells you,

Rad Cleaner : how has it built up enough junk to become choked..?

My cars have ALL needed Zero coolant top-ups (my 1242cc 500 needed a tiny bit over thousands of miles.. I suspect it was Self Bleeding after previous work)

Have you had to Refill at any time?

 

[The Panda Nut]

That sounds like A Lot of work,

I would just try Bleeding it and see what it tells you,

Rad Cleaner : how has it built up enough junk to become choked..?

My cars have ALL needed Zero coolant top-ups (my 1242cc 500 needed a tiny bit over thousands of miles.. I suspect it was Self Bleeding after previous work)

Have you had to Refill at any time?

No we have had this one 2 years and never touched it. The heater worked normally then just stopped. It warms but only warm which isn much good in cold weather. It could be the original coolant. The only time I had the top off was last winter to check the strength was still OK. Its a 2015 1.2 Easy

 

[The Panda Nut]

I’ve not really studied the heater plumbing. But, can you reach the under-bonnet ends of the two hoses and disconnect them? And, if so can they be flushed through with a garden hose? If they not both getting warm that might suggest no water’s flowing round that way at the moment?

Edit: just spotted @koalar was posting at the same time. My other suggestion was going to be air lock. Again, not looked on the Panda but there’s often an air bleed in the heater hose.

I think I also need to try and establish of the matrix is getting hot. I have an infra red thermometer, I suppose I should get the thing out and use it. I need a dry day so I can work outside where I can see better. I must admit Ive been wondering if I coud cheat and get two hose joining inderts then cut the hoses. It would be easier. Anyway battle plan is now use the IR thermometer and see if that adds to the picture, add rad cleaner, and see if anything changes. May be a second try then disconnect hoses and back flush the matrix. More rad cleaner new bottom hose clip so I can also well flush the radiator as well. Refill with water and run for a week or two then if its OK drain and refill will Paraflu lookalike.

 

[koalar]

If it's similar to the 1.2 169

Shouldn't need any chemicals

I just undo these two hoses

Shove hosepipe on one and turn on the tap
Shove hosepipe on other and turn on the tap
Button it back up
Top up
Take it for a test drive

Not a Fiat but the principle is the same

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

I think I also need to try and establish of the matrix is getting hot.

If the matrix is getting hot, then the feed and return pipes will be at the same temperature, more or less (the matrix is 'always on' -- the adjustment of temperature is done by directing air through or round the matrix using the flaps in the heater box...)
You should be able to feel both pipes with your hands, not needing a thermometer.

 

[The Panda Nut]

If the matrix is getting hot, then the feed and return pipes will be at the same temperature, more or less (the matrix is 'always on' -- the adjustment of temperature is done by dirtying air through or round the matrix using the flaps in the heater box...)
You should be able to feel both pipes with your hands, not needing a thermometer.

Thankyou. It confirming the matrix may need a good flush.

 

[varesecrazy]

Thankyou. It confirming the matrix may need a good flush.

If not Airlocked...

 

[The Panda Nut]

I dont think its got air locks as it was working and has gone bad, no water loss, but Yes bleed first!

 

[KPat]

I dont think its got air locks as it was working and has gone bad, no water loss, but Yes bleed first!

The heater pipes are at a low point on the system. So any solids will collect there and jam up the small matrix tubes.