Newbie with the car, some instructions.

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Newbie with the car, some instructions.

LiHoEn

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Athens, Greece
Hello guys and fellow drivers.

I'm an owner of Grande Punto T-Jet 1.4L/120hp, 2007 model with 170k KM on it.

I would like to know some basic things for the car as it's time of "big" service Oil/AirFilter/OilFilter and etc, and i want the best for it. My uses are most of it in town (Athens, Greece) high temperatures but i also pressure the car sometimes to the maximum. So i need at least the same power the car had, picking up the best parts so it can breath and work better/smoother.

  • Motor Oil capacity (with/without filter), what's the recommended amount of Litres it takes?
  • I'm about to order Amsoil European Model/Motul X-Clean 8100/Liqui Moli Top Tech 4100, Oil 5w/40-API SN-ACEA C3 (standards), what to choose?
  • I'm in the middle of Mann/Muller/Kengst/Bosch/Purflux/Fram/Mahle, oil filters, what to choose?
  • I'm about to pick Mann/Muller/Kengst/Bosch/Purflux/Fram/Mahle, air filters, what to choose?
  • I'm also aware to use Liqui Moly Oil Additive. Is that good and will the engine see some difference on the protection of it?
  • I'm also in discussions with mechanic to use Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush, cause my engine has already 170k on it and inside some parts are in black. Is that good and will the engine see some difference cleaning by?
 
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Just use the correct grade of oil, that will be fine. Don’t get hung up on oil flush or additives , snake oil. If you really want to do some good to the car engine, regular oil and filter changes will Be of more benefit.
 
Just use the correct grade of oil, that will be fine. Don’t get hung up on oil flush or additives , snake oil. If you really want to do some good to the car engine, regular oil and filter changes will Be of more benefit.
Hello jmboy, thank you for the reply!

Can you be more specific on the questions that i'm asking, if it doesn't bother you (Oil Capacity, Oil/Air Filters brands)?
Also you are saying that additives and engine flush, for one time in a while, won't make anything better or clear/protect the engine?
 
Do you have a handbook for your car? If not just look up on the web. Really just use well known brands of filters Mann and Bosch are up there. The correct grade of oil will protect the engine, bottom line just by adding extra ingredients via by the oil will not improve anything. As I said the best thing you can do is regular oil and filter changes, especially so in today’s stop/start driving. Do a bit of detective work on the web, look up additives and snake oil. You will both learn and save money....:)

Looks like you’re looking at just short of 3 litres of oil.
 
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Do you have a handbook for your car? If not just look up on the web. Really just use well known brands of filters Mann and Bosch are up there. The correct grade of oil will protect the engine, bottom line just by adding extra ingredients via by the oil will not improve anything. As I said the best thing you can do is regular oil and filter changes, especially so in today’s stop/start driving. Do a bit of detective work on the web, look up additives and snake oil. You will both learn and save money....:)

Looks like you’re looking at just short of 3 litres of oil.
No i don't have any handbook. Can someone help me with that? I cannot find anything specifically for my car. I want to know first of all how many KM am i suppose to change Oil, Oil Filter, Air Filter and the rest important parts of the car. Thank you in advance!
 
Most tend to change oil yearly or 10000 miles which ever comes first. On my daily driver I change my oil and filter every six months no matter what mileage, but that is just me, I do lot of stop start and short journeys in my job. There are other drivers who do the same as me. Lots of information on the web...;)
 
Jim's giving you a lot of good and very sound info here. It's very easy to become a bit obsessed and worried about oils and filters etc. I think partly because there is a lot of advertising around them and a lot of horror stories from people who have had bad experiences. - not always directly the fault of the oil/filter, but the people thought they were.

Like Jim, I would advise investing in a good oil from a known good manufacturer but most of all, if you want peace of mind, choose an oil which complies with the Fiat specification for your car. Then, regardless of the oil's manufacturer, you will be using an oil formulated to Fiat's recommendation for your vehicle. (for instance our Panda and Punto take an oil to Fiat spec 95535-S2 (if my memory is correct)

Both cars spend the largest part of their mileages running around the city of Edinburgh. The Punto does around 8 to 9,000 miles per year and the Panda does 2 to 3,000 miles. Both cars get their oil changed once a year. I run them on Fuchs Titan GT1 5W-40 which is an ACEA 3 oil which meets the Fiats spec, but I'd be equally happy to run on Castrol, Mobil, Liqui moly, or any other oil which meets the spec. Personally I like Mahle filters or a genuine manufacturers branded product but I recognize most of the names you quote and I think you're going to be pretty safe with any of them, although I don't know the Muller or Kengst brands. Same goes for air filters.

Personally I don't like engine flushes, especially on older engines - which, ironically, they are most recommended for! It worries me that "mucky particles", which otherwise would remain safely tucked away in corners of the engine, will become detached and block up, or partially block up, things like sump pickup strainers and restrictor orifaces etc. Regular oil changes, even with an engine which is quite dirty inside, is likely to very slowly dissolve some of the deposits using the oil's own, less aggressive, detergents so avoilding blockages and the bits it doesn't dissolve? who cares, they can just stay safely tucked up in the wee nooks and crannies of the engine.

Oil additives which are intended, nearly always, to "improve" the performance of the oil or somehow (which is never well explained) give "magical" extra protection? Honestly I just wouldn't. Spend your money on a really good oil instead and change it regularly ( yearly or around 10,000 miles will be fine for most cars. Although Jim likes to change his more often because he's doing low mileage short journeys which will degrade the oil more quickly. I think he'd probably be Ok doing it once a year but I bet his car loves him for doing it every 6 months) A modern oil is a very sophisticated "brew" of many constituents. Start adding random quantities of unmatched additives and you may just completely upset the carefully balance "apple cart" and end up with a lubricant which has many of it's best properties compromised!

So, I hope some of that is helpful? By the way I buy my oil in 5 litre containers. I don't quite get both cars changed with one 5 litre container so I have to buy 2. Reputable manufacturers will date stamp the containers and, as far as I can find out, It's acceptable to use oil up to 5 years from manufacture. So the next year I buy just one container and use some from the new, last year, container and some from the new, this year, container in both cars.

There are some great bargains to be had on ebay but be careful because sometimes you'll find it's product just about to go over the recommended date. No-one mentions this. I watch for Opie oils special offers on ebay which often undercut their web prices. Powerenhancer is another worth watching. Sometimes my local factor has a special offer. I've never had "old" oil from any of them.

Kind regards
Jock
 
You can find Grande punto's handbook and its service schedule with information of recommended lubricants and fluids from the link below.

https://www.fiatforum.com/downloads.php?do=download&downloadid=161

Then you could also invest in Haynes manual if you plan to do some work on the car by yourself.


It's normal for the engine internal parts to be black. If your car is running fine and doesn't have any engine related issues, do not use any engine flush products. Frequent oil changes with fully synthetic cheap oil every year and every 10k km does the same without any risk. Your car doesn't need any special or expensive oil. I've used Champion brand products for engine and transmission oils and so far there's not been any issues. Their website lists all the compatible oils for your car.


It's not about the brand name, the car requires just some standard type of fluid which are all listed in the handbook. Usually the cheapest is just fine, like DOT4 type for the brakes, SAE 5W-40 Acea c3 fully synthetic engine oil for the car for example.


Don't worry about the filter brands. They're all good. Also Valeo brand is good and affordable online.

Good luck! You can save lots of money by doing the service by yourself. Also if you did some research and bought just the fluid which is standard for the car and not by the brand name, you would save lots of money. :idea:
 
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Most tend to change oil yearly or 10000 miles which ever comes first. On my daily driver I change my oil and filter every six months no matter what mileage, but that is just me, I do lot of stop start and short journeys in my job. There are other drivers who do the same as me. Lots of information on the web...;)
Thank you for the informations Jim.

Sincerely!
 
Jim's giving you a lot of good and very sound info here. It's very easy to become a bit obsessed and worried about oils and filters etc. I think partly because there is a lot of advertising around them and a lot of horror stories from people who have had bad experiences. - not always directly the fault of the oil/filter, but the people thought they were.

Like Jim, I would advise investing in a good oil from a known good manufacturer but most of all, if you want peace of mind, choose an oil which complies with the Fiat specification for your car. Then, regardless of the oil's manufacturer, you will be using an oil formulated to Fiat's recommendation for your vehicle. (for instance our Panda and Punto take an oil to Fiat spec 95535-S2 (if my memory is correct)

Both cars spend the largest part of their mileages running around the city of Edinburgh. The Punto does around 8 to 9,000 miles per year and the Panda does 2 to 3,000 miles. Both cars get their oil changed once a year. I run them on Fuchs Titan GT1 5W-40 which is an ACEA 3 oil which meets the Fiats spec, but I'd be equally happy to run on Castrol, Mobil, Liqui moly, or any other oil which meets the spec. Personally I like Mahle filters or a genuine manufacturers branded product but I recognize most of the names you quote and I think you're going to be pretty safe with any of them, although I don't know the Muller or Kengst brands. Same goes for air filters.

Personally I don't like engine flushes, especially on older engines - which, ironically, they are most recommended for! It worries me that "mucky particles", which otherwise would remain safely tucked away in corners of the engine, will become detached and block up, or partially block up, things like sump pickup strainers and restrictor orifaces etc. Regular oil changes, even with an engine which is quite dirty inside, is likely to very slowly dissolve some of the deposits using the oil's own, less aggressive, detergents so avoilding blockages and the bits it doesn't dissolve? who cares, they can just stay safely tucked up in the wee nooks and crannies of the engine.

Oil additives which are intended, nearly always, to "improve" the performance of the oil or somehow (which is never well explained) give "magical" extra protection? Honestly I just wouldn't. Spend your money on a really good oil instead and change it regularly ( yearly or around 10,000 miles will be fine for most cars. Although Jim likes to change his more often because he's doing low mileage short journeys which will degrade the oil more quickly. I think he'd probably be Ok doing it once a year but I bet his car loves him for doing it every 6 months) A modern oil is a very sophisticated "brew" of many constituents. Start adding random quantities of unmatched additives and you may just completely upset the carefully balance "apple cart" and end up with a lubricant which has many of it's best properties compromised!

So, I hope some of that is helpful? By the way I buy my oil in 5 litre containers. I don't quite get both cars changed with one 5 litre container so I have to buy 2. Reputable manufacturers will date stamp the containers and, as far as I can find out, It's acceptable to use oil up to 5 years from manufacture. So the next year I buy just one container and use some from the new, last year, container and some from the new, this year, container in both cars.

There are some great bargains to be had on ebay but be careful because sometimes you'll find it's product just about to go over the recommended date. No-one mentions this. I watch for Opie oils special offers on ebay which often undercut their web prices. Powerenhancer is another worth watching. Sometimes my local factor has a special offer. I've never had "old" oil from any of them.

Kind regards
Jock
Thank in advance Pugglt,

i found very helpful everything you mentioned and i have to thank you for that. The only thing i have to ask if there is problem if use an oil that has not Fiat 95535-S2 standards but have the rest, like ACEA C3 and API SN? Is that ok for the engine? To be more specific i'm thinking to go for Amsoil 5w40 Euro Car Formula. I have listen many good things about it, as if you use this oil properly don't need to use any flush or additive.

Sincerely!
 
Additives are a hot topic on forums that’s for sure. For those not in the know and ask why are they there if they are snake oil, simple, money/profit. In the past there have been court cases due to exaggerated/untrue statements that these magic potions are capable of. Certain oils as well. That aside, just ask yourself, if certain engine oils are that good, why would you need additives? A modern engine does not need any of this.

Some however swear by their own chosen potion and use it, if that makes them feel better, that is their choice.I still have a wee smile to myself when back in the day, the choice of oil was either GTX or Duckums, I chose the latter due to its green colour and lovely smell.:D Aye I was young once :)
 
You can find Grande punto's handbook and its service schedule with information of recommended lubricants and fluids from the link below.

https://www.fiatforum.com/downloads.php?do=download&downloadid=161

Then you could also invest in Haynes manual if you plan to do some work on the car by yourself.


It's normal for the engine internal parts to be black. If your car is running fine and doesn't have any engine related issues, do not use any engine flush products. Frequent oil changes with fully synthetic cheap oil every year and every 10k km does the same without any risk. Your car doesn't need any special or expensive oil. I've used Champion brand products for engine and transmission oils and so far there's not been any issues. Their website lists all the compatible oils for your car.


It's not about the brand name, the car requires just some standard type of fluid which are all listed in the handbook. Usually the cheapest is just fine, like DOT4 type for the brakes, SAE 5W-40 Acea c3 fully synthetic engine oil for the car for example.


Don't worry about the filter brands. They're all good. Also Valeo brand is good and affordable online.

Good luck! You can save lots of money by doing the service by yourself. Also if you did some research and bought just the fluid which is standard for the car and not by the brand name, you would save lots of money. :idea:
Dear eeeno, thanks for the info and the link you provided you saved my life and the car. I would like to discuss about two things also i'm facing right now.

First thing of all is that when i have 3rd and above gear i have many stands-blockage on the acceleration-power. Every time i'm at 2k or 3k rpm and i try to accelerate the car seems to be out of power luck. It makes some pauses about 1 or 2 secs and then it goes full throttle. I asked a mechanic but he said that maybe injectors may need some cleaning. But relative problem to that i faced before 5k KM, but it was a coil ignition problem. The problem delivered on a hill when i putted 3nd gear and above the car didn't have power at all and immediately check engine was on. After i changed the first one the problem and light were resolved. But before 3k KM another coil ignition did the same, but without giving any error on the screen. So i don't know what to do, to change the 2 rest coil ignitions or to clean the injectors? P.S. When i bought the car i had about 10-11 litres/100km and now i got 8.8L/100KM, i don't know if the problem resolved by the time i changed Gas station that i filled with 98octane (about 8 months) to 95octane (2 months now) or by changing the ignition coils.

The second problem i'm facing is that when i get 70km/h and above the brake pads or the break discs itselfs (i don't know which one) are making a noisy whistle. I have to turn or push the breaks a little bit so it can stop for some seconds, before it starts again. The pads has been changed into Brembo, since 1k KM. The braking discs are still in very good conditions, but i don't know the brand on it. So i'm thinking about discs/pads/dot4, something need an attention.

I would be glad if someone would help about these two problems i'm facing with my car.
 
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Thank in advance Pugglt,

i found very helpful everything you mentioned and i have to thank you for that. The only thing i have to ask if there is problem if use an oil that has not Fiat 95535-S2 standards but have the rest, like ACEA C3 and API SN? Is that ok for the engine? To be more specific i'm thinking to go for Amsoil 5w40 Euro Car Formula. I have listen many good things about it, as if you use this oil properly don't need to use any flush or additive.

Sincerely!

Don’t get all fussed about oil that’s deemed to be great, just use the recommended grade. You are not going to notice any difference. One of the best suggestions was to purchase a Haynes manual, it’s certainly not going to answer everything, but it’s a good start. Best of luck LiH
 
I still have a wee smile to myself when back in the day, the choice of oil was either GTX or Duckums, I chose the latter due to its green colour and lovely smell.:D Aye I was young once :)

Puts a smile on my face to this day Jim. It was Duckhams Q 20/50for me too. Chosen for much the same reasons!
 
Thank in advance Pugglt,

i found very helpful everything you mentioned and i have to thank you for that. The only thing i have to ask if there is problem if use an oil that has not Fiat 95535-S2 standards but have the rest, like ACEA C3 and API SN? Is that ok for the engine? To be more specific i'm thinking to go for Amsoil 5w40 Euro Car Formula. I have listen many good things about it, as if you use this oil properly don't need to use any flush or additive.

Sincerely!
The wee Fiat engines are tough - but keep an eagle eye on the coolant level, they don't like overheating - it often will blow the head gasket, but only if you neglect the cooling system. Otherwise they are very tough reliable wee units. They were designed many years ago and are pretty "agricultural" by today's standards. As long as you use a 5w-40 viscosity oil (some have tried thinner "brews" 5W-30, or even 0w-20 someone mentioned recently, but I prefer the original recommendation of 5w-40) to the ACEA C3 spec (I'm of the opinion that the ACEA specs are more applicable to the European market/vehicle use conditions, than API (American Petroleum Institute). I'm sure you'll be fine.

Some of the oils at the more affordable price points you will find are not ACEA or API certified. The oil companies have to pay, and I believe it's not cheap, to gain this certification so the less expensive products sometimes aren't certified (often brand names sold in trade outlets). I'm sure some of these products are probably excellent but I wouldn't buy them without the certification because I have nothing to judge on without it. Manufacturer endorsement (the Fiat 5535-S2 in this case) will appear on even fewer products - money factors again I fear.

I have no experience of Amsoil and none of my local suppliers sell it, but it's a big name I've seen before. None of my local suppliers sell it. However I see one of my trusted and favourite on line sources do sell it so I'm sure they wouldn't sell a product they didn't fully approve of and I have great faith in their judgement:

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-121336...e,and carries multiple manufacturer approvals.

Looks quite expensive though compared to my usual Fuchs - which is rated to the Fiat spec

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60166-...V-aFOfnuWspza2h79VF9uIJSCJO05jYkaAhsiEALw_wcB
 
The wee Fiat engines are tough - but keep an eagle eye on the coolant level, they don't like overheating - it often will blow the head gasket, but only if you neglect the cooling system. Otherwise they are very tough reliable wee units. They were designed many years ago and are pretty "agricultural" by today's standards. As long as you use a 5w-40 viscosity oil (some have tried thinner "brews" 5W-30, or even 0w-20 someone mentioned recently, but I prefer the original recommendation of 5w-40) to the ACEA C3 spec (I'm of the opinion that the ACEA specs are more applicable to the European market/vehicle use conditions, than API (American Petroleum Institute). I'm sure you'll be fine.

Some of the oils at the more affordable price points you will find are not ACEA or API certified. The oil companies have to pay, and I believe it's not cheap, to gain this certification so the less expensive products sometimes aren't certified (often brand names sold in trade outlets). I'm sure some of these products are probably excellent but I wouldn't buy them without the certification because I have nothing to judge on without it. Manufacturer endorsement (the Fiat 5535-S2 in this case) will appear on even fewer products - money factors again I fear.

I have no experience of Amsoil and none of my local suppliers sell it, but it's a big name I've seen before. None of my local suppliers sell it. However I see one of my trusted and favourite on line sources do sell it so I'm sure they wouldn't sell a product they didn't fully approve of and I have great faith in their judgement:

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-121336...e,and carries multiple manufacturer approvals.

Looks quite expensive though compared to my usual Fuchs - which is rated to the Fiat spec

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60166-...V-aFOfnuWspza2h79VF9uIJSCJO05jYkaAhsiEALw_wcB
Thank you again Pugglt, for the information.

But at last would you get Amsoil , Motul or LiquiMoly? (What's your opinion and your decision, you were in middle of these 3)
 
Dear eeeno, thanks for the info and the link you provided you saved my life and the car. I would like to discuss about two things also i'm facing right now.

First thing of all is that when i have 3rd and above gear i have many stands-blockage on the acceleration-power. Every time i'm at 2k or 3k rpm and i try to accelerate the car seems to be out of power luck. It makes some pauses about 1 or 2 secs and then it goes full throttle. I asked a mechanic but he said that maybe injectors may need some cleaning. But relative problem to that i faced before 5k KM, but it was a coil ignition problem. The problem delivered on a hill when i putted 3nd gear and above the car didn't have power at all and immediately check engine was on. After i changed the first one the problem and light were resolved. But before 3k KM another coil ignition did the same, but without giving any error on the screen. So i don't know what to do, to change the 2 rest coil ignitions or to clean the injectors? P.S. When i bought the car i had about 10-11 litres/100km and now i got 8.8L/100KM, i don't know if the problem resolved by the time i changed Gas station that i filled with 98octane (about 8 months) to 95octane (2 months now) or by changing the ignition coils.

The second problem i'm facing is that when i get 70km/h and above the brake pads or the break discs itselfs (i don't know which one) are making a noisy whistle. I have to turn or push the breaks a little bit so it can stop for some seconds, before it starts again. The pads has been changed into Brembo, since 1k KM. The braking discs are still in very good conditions, but i don't know the brand on it. So i'm thinking about discs/pads/dot4, something need an attention.

I would be glad if someone would help about these two problems i'm facing with my car.
I'm a wee bit confused about whether you are saying you've connected a scanner to this? With regard to the power lack I would be connecting a scanner and searching for any stored trouble codes. Beware of the results from cheaper generic scanners though. There are plenty of instances, quoted on our forum, of people who have wasted a lot of time and money chasing erroneous faults listed by cheap scanner/code readers. We know the Multiecu Scan (MES) program works well or main dealer tools. You can waste a lot of time trying to chase down a fault which may well be stored in the ECU memory.

Brakes? I'd be jacking up each corner and making sure each wheel spins freely. If they do then try pushing back the pistons in the calipers just a little bit to see if they are free moving. Having pushed the pistons back you'll now have a wee bit of clearance between the pads and discs so see if you can slide the calipers back and forward on their pins. just a small amound of travel is enough to prove the calipers/pistons are not seized at this point (doesn't mean there aren't problems deeper into the caliper pot or piston, but it proves they are not causing brake drag at this point in the pad's life and you generally will not need to dismantle anything, apart from removing the wheel, to do this. If all is free you probably just need to strip the pads out, glaze bust the friction face on some abrasive paper on a flat surface - I keep a piece of plate glass on which I place the emery cloth - and reassemble with anti seize paste sparingly applied to the metal backing of the pads and anywhere they locate in the carrier. NOT ANYWHERE THAT COULD CONTAMINATE THE FRICTION FACE of course. It's very likely this will stop the noise.
 
Thank you again Pugglt, for the information.

But at last would you get Amsoil , Motul or LiquiMoly? (What's your opinion and your decision, you were in middle of these 3)
Sorry Feller, I'm probably not saying what you want to hear now. These are all big and well respected names but I've never used any of them. If they are all the same spec (ACEA 3 and API SN you were saying? and of the correct viscosity 5w-40) then I'd just be going for the one that was best value.

Good luck with it all. These sort of decisions are never that easy when you don't have experience but persevere as it's all worth it in the long term. I've saved shed loads of money over the years by looking after my own cars.

Kind regards
Jock
 
A couple of posts above I said that I preferred where there is an ACEA spec for an oil as i believed the ACEA spec to be more applicable to operating conditions on our side of the "pond". I just went back into Opie's site and downloaded the tech info PDF on the Amsoil product. They are making a big thing of it being "improved for European vehicles" Seems to support my feelings on the subject?

https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/amsoil/g3395.pdf
 
I'm a wee bit confused about whether you are saying you've connected a scanner to this? With regard to the power lack I would be connecting a scanner and searching for any stored trouble codes. Beware of the results from cheaper generic scanners though. There are plenty of instances, quoted on our forum, of people who have wasted a lot of time and money chasing erroneous faults listed by cheap scanner/code readers. We know the Multiecu Scan (MES) program works well or main dealer tools. You can waste a lot of time trying to chase down a fault which may well be stored in the ECU memory.

Brakes? I'd be jacking up each corner and making sure each wheel spins freely. If they do then try pushing back the pistons in the calipers just a little bit to see if they are free moving. Having pushed the pistons back you'll now have a wee bit of clearance between the pads and discs so see if you can slide the calipers back and forward on their pins. just a small amound of travel is enough to prove the calipers/pistons are not seized at this point (doesn't mean there aren't problems deeper into the caliper pot or piston, but it proves they are not causing brake drag at this point in the pad's life and you generally will not need to dismantle anything, apart from removing the wheel, to do this. If all is free you probably just need to strip the pads out, glaze bust the friction face on some abrasive paper on a flat surface - I keep a piece of plate glass on which I place the emery cloth - and reassemble with anti seize paste sparingly applied to the metal backing of the pads and anywhere they locate in the carrier. NOT ANYWHERE THAT COULD CONTAMINATE THE FRICTION FACE of course. It's very likely this will stop the noise.
ECU Scanner was connected the first time, previous 5k KM, where ignition coil failed and check engine was on. In the second time that ignition coil failed, i didn't have any check engine on (except one day about some hours, then it did get off). But cause of the failure we changed the ignition coil because the of the ECU Scanning shown us that even for that amount of time, the ignition coil was off-damaged. So i have the 2nd and the 4th ignition coiled changed-new, while the rest are the old. Now i haven't scan ECU for ignition coil by the time i haven't seen any check engine on, even if i get those problems i described you on 3rd gear and above (at 2k and 3k rpm while i accelerate). :(

P.S. If i could described it humanly the first problem, i'm facing, is when you are crying a lot and after some minutes when you are trying to breath you can't fill with air and the breath makes some pauses-stucks continuously. I don't know if it's related into power (coil ignitions or injectors) or air/oil filter are blocked.
 
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