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Panda (Classic) My Sisley, Panda 4x4 - division north

Introduction

As mentioned before, I'm starting new thread for my recent purchease.
Bought it from forum user, deposit was place without seeing the car first, went all the way down south with rest of the cash and A-frame in boot.

First summary of the car is ( 1 is very poor, 10 is perfect):

  • Originality - 6,
  • Bodywork - 7,
  • Engine - 6,
  • Gearbox - 5,
  • Interior - 5,
  • Structural rust - 8,
  • Visible rust - 8,
  • Previous owners maintain - 7
Plan for the car is to keep it road worthy and in good mechanical nick, join Panda 4x4 UK club and have some play with other Northern forum members.

As it is now, I'm not willing to make any statement what needs to be done as I had only spend about 2h last week by checking and looking at the car in more details way.

That is my bigger worry for now - bloody milky coolant and a bit of mayo under the oil cap.

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How can I confirm my head gasket theory not having coolant presure test kit???
@CLS - your not the only one - aparently it is bloody hard to buy cheepo 4x4 without blown thru head gasket.

The rest of the engine bay seems to be fine,
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Did somebody in here mentioned a black silicone gunk as a fast repair?
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Interior as you can expect from car been used on a farm
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Not the geniune steering wheel and speedo, which does not make much difference to me at all. Roofrack presence evidence
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I dont want to know how this happened.
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Filler pipe still untouched, what sort of DIY protections do you recon?
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And time for the bad boy
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Is that gap between the propshaft and diff is normall?
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Dear FFCP section members, any comments, suggestions and observation are more than welcome, especcialy regards the 4x4 drive train i.e. leaks etc.
In my opinion the compression is ok, the differences between highest and lowest are around the tolerance 10%, it is 20+ years old engine so all seems fine to me. You have made the compression test on hot or cold engine?

In my case the headgasket leak was obvious, there was a crack on the hg, and some red deposits in the combustion chamber of the leaking cylnder visible after washing off black carbon sludge.Red probably because I used red coolant and had been driving the car with blown gasket for a few months, so there was enough time to build up some deposits.But it is not always as simple and obvious as in my case.

My head with visible red deposits on 1st cyl:
 

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Bartpanda- test was carried out on cold engine, same as valve clearance. In my case it is not that obvious, but the difference in chamber and piston top contamination on 1 cyl vs. the others is noticible. Cyl 1 intake valve clearance is out of spec causing valve to open earlier and close a bit later- i'm i correct? I will inspect cyl 1 intake valve seat as it might be burned. There is set of valve stem seal in my kit- is it better to swap them as well? While i'm in.
 
test was carried out on cold engine
should be performed on warm/hot engine, in the "normal working condition" for the engine like 75-90 deg. Celsus, but if your test was performed on cold engine the "hot" values would be even better:) and maby more even.

same as valve clearance.
that is correct method, we want to check the gaps on cold engine, to allow moving parts to expand when hot, to correct clearances.

There is set of valve stem seal in my kit- is it better to swap them as well?
ofcourse! old stem seals are not ellastic any more and prone to leaks and cracks.
 
Ups, school boy error. Anyway, those small round water chanels closest to cyl bore were clogged at HG by black rubber like stuff, this is enough reason and justification for me.
 
Can somebody help me looking for core/block plug 29mm diameter? cylinder 4 radiator side has rusted through and been glued with some sealing compound. I've noticed that befor as there was small coolant leak. I should swap t 1242 rather than repeiring this piece of junk.
edit: i've found 30mm which sound ok- £2.60 including p&p.
 
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Can somebody help me looking for core/block plug 29mm diameter? cylinder 4 radiator side has rusted through and been glued with some sealing compound. I've noticed that befor as there was small coolant leak. I should swap t 1242 rather than repeiring this piece of junk.
edit: i've found 30mm which sound ok- £2.60 including p&p.

Didn't you buy a 1242?
 
I'm starting to think that this work should be carried on as " engine out job", but do I want to rebuild this engine - not likely, do I want to prove to my self and the whole world that I can rebuild it - yes.

My overheating mistery has been solved now... ( I hope so)

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not the best photo as it is really hard to capture the size and nature of that thing inside water chanells and pockets. Clearly water flow at the back side of cylinders was resticted by 50% in high from cyl 2 up to cyl 4 and around cyl 4.

Cylinder bores were prepared not to be contaminated with any dirt.

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It was not solid, more like grit/ gravel - best tool fot this job- steel stripe section from old wiper blade combine with compressed air.
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And this in the front of cyl 4 core plug with hole allready visible, whole plug cavity been covered with 2 compound glue type. ( new plug alledy in my possesion)

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Base on core inside / water chanels contamination with rust - car was run water insted of coolant for long time, and clear signs of "liquid head gasket" as well.

The bigest problem so far is with removing the water pipe from pump housing, and the most enoing thing is that the pipe itself has been re-new few monts ago.

Pipe needs to be removed to give me clear access for tapping in new plug in place.

edit: John PPP - is your spare engine (ex.Kev's) still available?
 
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Brave man taking on that repair job and yes the spare engine is yours for the taking, it needs to be gone quick though I'm moving on the 1st of August (though garage contents will be going a few days later...).

I'm not sure if the engines been tested but I bought it as a rebuilt one - purple haze should be able to fill in more details.

Good Luck kolza Jakob!
 
looks like old bits of plastic water pump.. i have seen it where cars have been filled with tap water and sold on.. the next owner thinks its all fine till the winter comes. the block freezes and lumps of ice munch up the water pump.. or snap the timing belt.
that is if you are lucky and the ice build up in the engine does not crack anything.
 
Cyl head has been skimmed previously, accorrding to how off square it is probably been done by glass and sand paper method. It's with my tool room college, it won't be skimmed again as one of the marks is nearly grounded- plan is to have it just wiped by 0.5mm to remove any corrosion signs.
 
Read through this entire thread and I can only find one proper full shot of your sisley, lets see some glamour shots!!


Sorry, but it looks like i don't have any good ones, I've never took slr camera with me when set off for a ride, tow rope and fully charged mobile took priorities every time - hope cyl head rebuild will sort out my motor problems.

ps. there is not much to show - other than hundreds of full length sctraches on both sides made during one ride when I was really squeezing thru totaly overgrown lane close to my place.
 
Sorry, but it looks like i don't have any good ones, I've never took slr camera with me when set off for a ride, tow rope and fully charged mobile took priorities every time - hope cyl head rebuild will sort out my motor problems.

ps. there is not much to show - other than hundreds of full length sctraches on both sides made during one ride when I was really squeezing thru totaly overgrown lane close to my place.

Oh ok dude :)
 
Cyl head is already done - still above minimum marks (beer token promissed).
Now the valves need to be cleaned off and polished, valve seat lapping next.
 
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