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Panda (Classic) My Sisley, Panda 4x4 - division north

Introduction

As mentioned before, I'm starting new thread for my recent purchease.
Bought it from forum user, deposit was place without seeing the car first, went all the way down south with rest of the cash and A-frame in boot.

First summary of the car is ( 1 is very poor, 10 is perfect):

  • Originality - 6,
  • Bodywork - 7,
  • Engine - 6,
  • Gearbox - 5,
  • Interior - 5,
  • Structural rust - 8,
  • Visible rust - 8,
  • Previous owners maintain - 7
Plan for the car is to keep it road worthy and in good mechanical nick, join Panda 4x4 UK club and have some play with other Northern forum members.

As it is now, I'm not willing to make any statement what needs to be done as I had only spend about 2h last week by checking and looking at the car in more details way.

That is my bigger worry for now - bloody milky coolant and a bit of mayo under the oil cap.

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How can I confirm my head gasket theory not having coolant presure test kit???
@CLS - your not the only one - aparently it is bloody hard to buy cheepo 4x4 without blown thru head gasket.

The rest of the engine bay seems to be fine,
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Did somebody in here mentioned a black silicone gunk as a fast repair?
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Interior as you can expect from car been used on a farm
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Not the geniune steering wheel and speedo, which does not make much difference to me at all. Roofrack presence evidence
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I dont want to know how this happened.
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Filler pipe still untouched, what sort of DIY protections do you recon?
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And time for the bad boy
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Is that gap between the propshaft and diff is normall?
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Dear FFCP section members, any comments, suggestions and observation are more than welcome, especcialy regards the 4x4 drive train i.e. leaks etc.
ok i know my car is the best on the forum :)p) but you dont have to copy me :D
next thing we will see is a pair of marbella doors on it haha


they look fantastic! get the centre caps on them it makes them look awesome!

always wanted to see what Talon would look like with the original doors and weller wheels on
 
I've been lazzzzzy recently plus cold weather but it is finished now.

Currently i'm in process of purchasing lift kit ( various bits ), malatesta trac tyres, winch, etc. and i've started the preparation process for lift kit to be instaled.

Sisley is currently on SORN, as there was not much point of attempting MOT with holes in both sills.
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That was during "first look" just after buying the car, not its a bit more serios.

As usual after taking the trim off the panda rust porn was seen
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Almost invisible with the trim on, just to mention the plastic bunk/plug from inner rear sill was missing (as you can expect due to previous repair)
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www.maxicar.com Inner LH sill - can't find any references to repair panels on google, according to MOT history both outer and inners sills were done in 1997.
Oposite site is coroded a bit closer to end of the sill.

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Probably I'll wait with the repair till Trac tyres, lift kit will be available as the sill ends might be modified to give bigger clearance.
 
oh nice.. so its like a complete shock absorber and full front suspension replacement.

hmm i really would love to get talon lifted a bit. not much.. just a bit.

i wonder if that yugo 45 that is in our scrap yard will have that 127 gearbox flange on it??

i was considering just making nylon blocks and just sit them on the top of the struts.
as for the rear i was just going to lengthen the rear shackles. all my brake hoses are already a few cm longer than they are meant to be.

i cant wait to see future pictures.. be sure to take some when you get the lift kit :D
 
ok i know my car is the best on the forum :)p) but you dont have to copy me :D
next thing we will see is a pair of marbella doors on it haha


they look fantastic! get the centre caps on them it makes them look awesome!

always wanted to see what Talon would look like with the original doors and weller wheels on

Hopefully you won't have to wait too long ;)
 
I don't understand -it works out at £580 delivered- is that wrong?

Obviously I don't understand the written words but the price looks good to me - infact I'm very tempted to order one!

:confused: That link has English under the Italian! Now I know you sometimes speak rubbish, but it's definitely a form of English!! :p

You might need to move to the order stage before seeing any postage - not quite sure where you got to in that website, but usually any postage is added at the end of the ordering process. Maybe someone who has already ordered will know - is it the same kit AndyPanda4x4 got?
 
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:confused: That link has English under the Italian! Now I know you sometimes speak rubbish, but it's definitely a form of English!! :p

You might need to move to the order stage before seeing any postage - not quite sure where you got to in that website, but usually any postage is added at the end of the ordering process. Maybe someone who has already ordered will know - is it the same kit AndyPanda4x4 got?

The descriptions are in English but nothing else. Clicking the ordering link makes it more indecipherable and confusing.

Will try in on the PC later.

What's that about rubbish Mr Pot?
 
The descriptions are in English but nothing else. Clicking the ordering link makes it more indecipherable and confusing.

Will try in on the PC later.

What's that about rubbish Mr Pot?

I got to the register as a new customer page, but didn't go any further. The 2 prices I saw were net and VAT inclusive. I didn't see anything about postage, but like you Mr Kettle, I have limited knowledge based on buying stuff in the past. (y)

Why not email them - write it in English & use a couple of translation sites to do it in Italian too (I translate in one, then feed that into a second to see if it makes any sense back in English) - it seems to work & of course if they already speak English they can read the unmangled version! I always apologise for the poor attempt too, but a couple of times people have said it's good!! :idea:
 
I do need new battery for my sisley as the current one will not hold juice for longer then 1 week.
Battery wasn't great from day one, after sorning the car has been used alot just for monouver pourposes within the unit. I had it fitted recently to Black panda while at Andy's place to give a nice long run to it, but it did not solve the issue.

Does the battery brand make any differnce? I alway tend to look for Banner ones.

Current one is 47Ah, but i'm planning to fit winch ( panda size) in near future so my question is should I upgrade the battery now to max capacity to fit in std place or does dual battery system is a must to have winch on a panda?
@Dragon Man - what is your view?

In the dual battery system. does the second battery need to be full size one? or just small motorcycle one? Recommended 12Ah Min battery for winching- that what in manufacturer spec plus table below
Performance Data

Line Pull (lbs/kg)
Line Speed
Motor (Amps)
0
27ft (8.3m)
15
500 (227)
20ft (6.1m)
40
1,000 (454)
16ft (4.9m)
60
2,000 (907)
9ft (2.7m)
130
3,000 (1361)
5ft (1.5m)
190


Thanks for any help

ps. Punto Alternator is consider as well. Can you make one?
 
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I would go for something arround 65Ah battery{small case} and 75 or 90A alternator from punto with aircon and ellectric power assist{ "city" button} for a "winched" panda;)

PS: I wouldn't buy anything below 4500 lbs.
 
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biggest battery you can fit! its all about amps or Ah. find the one with the most Ah, that will fit in the battery tray. Talon has a 65Ah with a 100Ah in the boot held in by using some home made brackets that bolt through the floor with 2 small holes.

the alternator thing is super easy to do. you just have to swap the pulleys around, that doent take much doing.

the choice is yours really... you can go for a big front battery or get a relay controlled rear battery that only comes on (linked into the front battery) when the ignition is on for starting and charging.

i built my own charge controller that can be made to turn the rear battery on and start the car even if the front battery is totally dead or removed. the system also auto shuts down if the battery goes below a set voltage so no matter what i will still have enough power to start the engine.
i built all this myself, but you can just get the whole kit online. i only did it because i love that kind of challenge, and i can keep adding things to it like a timer where if the car doors are not opened for a long time it will also isolate the battery to stop it from draining.

i dont think i will bother doing it for fallout. i think ill just move the battery to in the boot so i can get one large one in it.

i could even move it to under the boot floor.. stick it in an old ammo crate welded or bolted through the boot floor.. ohhhhhhh... hmmmmm... so many possibilities!
 
It will have the "mpi" bolt pattern for inlet manifold, so for carbed manifold four upper bolts are higher, the rest fits.Only ellectric fuel pump, since there is no way to use mechanical one. I am not sure if it has the "notch" for the older type ignition{eg:ellectronic distrb. from panda 1.0, uno 1.1 etc} in the cam base, or even if there is a possibilty to attach the distributor to the head, too new engine to be 100% sure, but probably not.Possible other small goblins when trying to alter it wth older "fire" engine parts,plus poor EURO4 eco camshaft :) I'd rather stay with 1994-99 engines.

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Just to add note.

I've gone for Banner UniBull 69Ah 520A 241x175x190mm battery, just under £60 delivered from Germany.

Good thing is the twin pair of +/- posts which should let me have sufficient connection to winch motor, don't have the winch yet but i'm considering binning all the wiring which will be supplied with it and using some branded products.
 
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