Bigvtwin996
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Filters..
Glass one??
One in the tank,
One in the pump
and one in the carb
Glass one??
One in the tank,
One in the pump
and one in the carb
General Murphio's Meanderings
- Thread starter fiat500
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General Murphio's Meanderings
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- Sep 27, 2020
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I’m presuming your ‘obvious glass’ filter is an aftermarket one fitted between the pump and the carb…
You will find most members caution against a filter in this location as it’s exposed to a lot of heat from the exhaust and, especially with plastic filters, can be a real risk of fire.
As long as the fuel tank is in good order, the 3 original filters, as listed above by @Bigvtwin996, should be adequate.
You will find most members caution against a filter in this location as it’s exposed to a lot of heat from the exhaust and, especially with plastic filters, can be a real risk of fire.
As long as the fuel tank is in good order, the 3 original filters, as listed above by @Bigvtwin996, should be adequate.
OP
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Murf's been playing up after his long rest. We encountered the classic problem of stalling after a few miles when the engine is hot, then having to wait for five minutes for it to cool until it restarts very easily. I've had several test drives after changing different things, and each time the car broke down again. It was nice that on two occasions, classic car enthusiasts stopped to ask if I needed help. 
I came to the conclusion that it was an electrical fault, as on one occasion the engine seemed to run briefly on one cylinder prior to stalling. This was after I had tried adjusting the points and tappets, adjusting the mixture, checked the idle jet, the timing, checking fuel supply and swapping out the coil for a good, original one. I tried it with different ignition leads (it wouldn't start at all), and finally whipped out the spark plugs and checked the resistance with my multimeter. One plug had an internal fault which was allowing it to short. I assume that as it distorted with increasing heat, the problem got worse. Changing for good, used plugs transformed the engine back to normal.
It was a satisfying diagnostic challenge, and an issue that I haven't had previously. But now we can maybe get on with a bit of mild meandering.
I came to the conclusion that it was an electrical fault, as on one occasion the engine seemed to run briefly on one cylinder prior to stalling. This was after I had tried adjusting the points and tappets, adjusting the mixture, checked the idle jet, the timing, checking fuel supply and swapping out the coil for a good, original one. I tried it with different ignition leads (it wouldn't start at all), and finally whipped out the spark plugs and checked the resistance with my multimeter. One plug had an internal fault which was allowing it to short. I assume that as it distorted with increasing heat, the problem got worse. Changing for good, used plugs transformed the engine back to normal.
It was a satisfying diagnostic challenge, and an issue that I haven't had previously. But now we can maybe get on with a bit of mild meandering.
OP
OP
Keeping on top of little problems is important. So a new pair of spark plugs, a rubber rocker gasket and a new restraint strap for the rear seat were ordered. As usual, the pattern parts keep giving (or not!) You can see that the size, shape and finish of the hook and the securing bracket are different from original. There is no countersink for the screws on the bracket. The rubber strap seems short, but I'm putting that down maybe to the old one being stretched after 55 years! None of this affects function, and perhaps matters only to the "odd" person like me. But I removed and disposed of the new metal parts and fitted the old parts to the strap....that's better.
Then the spark lugs; my stopgap set were NGK BP7HS, the replacements, advertised as suitable for the 126 (engine) are B7HS. The subtle difference is that the former type have a projecting nose, which give advantages for combustion and heat transfer; changing them for the new ones may also affect engine timing. I am sure they will work OK, but for now I'm keeping the old ones.
Then the spark lugs; my stopgap set were NGK BP7HS, the replacements, advertised as suitable for the 126 (engine) are B7HS. The subtle difference is that the former type have a projecting nose, which give advantages for combustion and heat transfer; changing them for the new ones may also affect engine timing. I am sure they will work OK, but for now I'm keeping the old ones.
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I had to remove the sill trims so that I could repair the rusty sills. I've previously said that the holes that take the plastic fixings are a stupid idea and that they probably make a big contributions to how readily the sills rust away on the 500. In the past I have used a combination of sticky rubber pads and PU sealant to keep them in place. That works OK once you have them fixed in place, but finding the correct position and securing the strips whilst the adhesive sets is very tricky. Last time, the strips ended up slightly out of level, and the glue seems to get everywhere.
In view of this and after finding that the sills rust regardless of whether or not you use the trim clips I've revised my opinion. For once, the aftermarket clips that are available for this purpose seem better than the originals. they seem to be made from slightly softer plastic which seals against the inside of the holes reassuringly.
I used a stepped drill to make the 8mm holes .
I didn't like to leave exposed steel, even though it would be hidden, so I then painted two coats of zinc primer around the raw edges, followed by a generous amount of Waxoyl.
The plastic clips push in by hand and then you pop in the central dowel, which locks them in place.
It doesn't look perfect because of the multiple repair patches hidden behind the multi-shade paint; I have slightly lost the correct contours of the sill. But I think the stainless steel trims add an appropriate finishing touch to a 500; they look a bit underdressed without it.
In view of this and after finding that the sills rust regardless of whether or not you use the trim clips I've revised my opinion. For once, the aftermarket clips that are available for this purpose seem better than the originals. they seem to be made from slightly softer plastic which seals against the inside of the holes reassuringly.
I used a stepped drill to make the 8mm holes .
I didn't like to leave exposed steel, even though it would be hidden, so I then painted two coats of zinc primer around the raw edges, followed by a generous amount of Waxoyl.
The plastic clips push in by hand and then you pop in the central dowel, which locks them in place.
It doesn't look perfect because of the multiple repair patches hidden behind the multi-shade paint; I have slightly lost the correct contours of the sill. But I think the stainless steel trims add an appropriate finishing touch to a 500; they look a bit underdressed without it.
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Bigvtwin996
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N's had little steel clips, I spoke to Andrea at Passione 500 about this many years ago..
He reccomends the new plastic ones as he said the steel ones actually make the sills rust more
unless you are building a perfect concours car..
He reccomends the new plastic ones as he said the steel ones actually make the sills rust more
unless you are building a perfect concours car..
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Aother big project has started....a luxury garage for the Fiat.......................................
not really. We've started on a new house build for our retirement, and that means that old Murf won't be in action much over the next year or so. But he's still fully roadworthy, taxed and insured.
not really. We've started on a new house build for our retirement, and that means that old Murf won't be in action much over the next year or so. But he's still fully roadworthy, taxed and insured.