Ha ha! Thats ok Zundapp. Perhaps we should both change our centre front seats for the cooler that was available.........
General Multipla keys
- Thread starter Fugly
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General Multipla keys
Had two keys with my Multi, one remote worked, other not (battery fine)I've just been quoted £ 114.42 to repalce a key that's stopped zapping and £ 74.03 for the coding by Bristol main dealer, who said that the keys cannot be repaired. But another garage said that sometimes there's a solder join that breaks under the key button and can be repaired. Any experiences with this? And any suggestions as to where I can get one of these magic £ 100 key and coding deals
BTW, if you get a new key and still have your second key, they need both when they code the alarm, otherwise the old one won't work anymore.
Baloopa
. Then good one also stopped (annoyingly with alarm set, had a hell of a job turning it off). Anyway, in desperation at price took circuit board out of both and found switch detatched in both. Did a DIY solder job which worked fine on one, but unfortunately must have overheated switch on other because it jammmed and in trying to free bust it completely. Anyway, summary is, probably can be fixed by soldering, but be careful not to touch main switch body with iron as there's plastic under the metal!
Yeah Rob, when I soldered mine I used a very 'pointy ended' (technical term) soldering iron. I bought it from a local ICE place. He's old school and I told him what I was gonna do and he sold me the right tool for the job. £7.00 with solder in the blister pack. I was lucky, decent bloke.
My own original soldering iron is a big old 30watt 1/4 inch tip job. probably would have melted the whole key!
My own original soldering iron is a big old 30watt 1/4 inch tip job. probably would have melted the whole key!
Re: Multipla alarm
RE message 13.
See multipla owners yahoo forum for full details on key repairs.
cheers
mish
RE message 13.
See multipla owners yahoo forum for full details on key repairs.
cheers
mish
Ok. Camera phones are a wonderful thing. Here are some pictures of the key internals.
1. Simply the pcb in the key.
2. The tip of the key is pointing at the silver microswitch attached to the pcb. This is operated by the plunger that you press on the key.
3. In the next picture I have tried to take a closer up picture of the microswitch. It is this microswitch that detaches and needs four blobs of solder to reattach.
I hope this all works as this is the only key I have for my new car at the moment! The key simply prises apart, there is even a slot to put your knife in to ease it apart.
1. Simply the pcb in the key.
2. The tip of the key is pointing at the silver microswitch attached to the pcb. This is operated by the plunger that you press on the key.
3. In the next picture I have tried to take a closer up picture of the microswitch. It is this microswitch that detaches and needs four blobs of solder to reattach.
I hope this all works as this is the only key I have for my new car at the moment! The key simply prises apart, there is even a slot to put your knife in to ease it apart.
Attachments
Great post PandaBloke. I repaired both of mine this way a year or more ago and they've worked fine ever since. Curiously, by being a bit dithery with the soldering iron the fist time, I managed to dislodge and lose one of the two small components (which I suspect are resistors) that you can see at the top in your close-up. But the key still worked perfectly well without it, so not quite sure what it was there for!
Here's a handy hint for those where the switch breaks and the car is locked -- and what I did in a supermarket car park when my key stopped working. Pull apart as in Pandabloke's post and pop the circuit board out and turn it over to look like the photos above. Now, carefully 'short out' (ie connect together) the two tiny contacts on the side of the switch nearest the top in those photos (you can use the end of the key, or a paper clip, or even the pin from a name badge!). This will unlock the car and turn off the alarm.
When you get home, if you're handy with a soldering iron, repair as above. If not, just get into the habit of using the key in the lock in the driver's door. Won't 'set' the alarm but will lock everything up.
Pete
Here's a handy hint for those where the switch breaks and the car is locked -- and what I did in a supermarket car park when my key stopped working. Pull apart as in Pandabloke's post and pop the circuit board out and turn it over to look like the photos above. Now, carefully 'short out' (ie connect together) the two tiny contacts on the side of the switch nearest the top in those photos (you can use the end of the key, or a paper clip, or even the pin from a name badge!). This will unlock the car and turn off the alarm.
When you get home, if you're handy with a soldering iron, repair as above. If not, just get into the habit of using the key in the lock in the driver's door. Won't 'set' the alarm but will lock everything up.
Pete
larkim
Established member
Its not only the microswitch that detatches - within 2 weeks of buying a new 08 Multipla my key wouldn't respond to button presses. And then it started to rattle!
Prised it apart to find that the main chip on the PCB had completely detached!!
Warranty replaced, of course, but annoying none-the-less.
Matt
Prised it apart to find that the main chip on the PCB had completely detached!!
Warranty replaced, of course, but annoying none-the-less.
Matt
Thank you pandabloke!
My key has been increasingly unresponsive when trying to lock or unlock my car with the button until today when it decided it was not going to open the car at all, despite the red led on the fob flashing away.
I came on here, read through this post, popped my key open and what should be rattling around in the fob, free as a bird and totally useless, but the above mentioned block!
Am currently hunting down a soldering iron!
My key has been increasingly unresponsive when trying to lock or unlock my car with the button until today when it decided it was not going to open the car at all, despite the red led on the fob flashing away.
I came on here, read through this post, popped my key open and what should be rattling around in the fob, free as a bird and totally useless, but the above mentioned block!
Am currently hunting down a soldering iron!
Yes I soldered the button back in place, easy job took few minutes.
I didn't hear/feel the click of the button. Then it needs to be soldered.
That's true the micro switch is mounted by four soldered pads and the pressure from pushing on the button causes one or two to shear. A careful dab with a fine point soldering iron will rectify this if the switch is still in one piece, otherwise a replacement can be purchased from one of the electronic component factors, NOT FIAT.
Peat
Thanks for that Pandabloke,
I have just soldered my Multipla key and it is working perfectly again.
Hi guys, got my 02 Multipla diesel lex 115 yesterday - love it
However both keys are dead. I have changed the batteries, and checked for loose micro switches etc on the pcb - can't see anyting amiss, and the micro switch is quite positive in its operation on both fobs. The fob led does not light up either.
Any further ideas or suggestions? Did the previous owner have the correct battery in the fob? CR 2032 is fitted.
However both keys are dead. I have changed the batteries, and checked for loose micro switches etc on the pcb - can't see anyting amiss, and the micro switch is quite positive in its operation on both fobs. The fob led does not light up either.
Any further ideas or suggestions? Did the previous owner have the correct battery in the fob? CR 2032 is fitted.
Hi (and welcome to the forum!)
Yes, it's a CR2032 battery. The battery should be fitted with its 'outer' (normally the side with the writing on it) away from the PCB. Check that the sprung contact behind the battery and the large contact area on the PCB (that the battery touches) are clean. A gentle rub of both with a pan scourer will do this nicely.
Yes, it's a CR2032 battery. The battery should be fitted with its 'outer' (normally the side with the writing on it) away from the PCB. Check that the sprung contact behind the battery and the large contact area on the PCB (that the battery touches) are clean. A gentle rub of both with a pan scourer will do this nicely.
Thank you. Yes, done that, still no joy, however i have noticed that the micro switch in the second key is indeed detached so hopefully i can get that one up and running soon.
Wonder if it's worth detaching and re-soldering the other one.............?
Wonder if it's worth detaching and re-soldering the other one.............?
We test customers keys using a device that looks for the chip and another that looks for a signal being sent by the remote . We can then advise the customer whats needed.
No charge for this service. I would think if you took your keys to any decent locksmith, he would do the same.
Good luck
No charge for this service. I would think if you took your keys to any decent locksmith, he would do the same.
Good luck
