Hello,
I have read all the threads on changing a Multipla clutch and I thought it might be interesting to others planning to do this job a few points that I noticed having just completed mine. With regard to the remove or not to remove front subframe debate, I did not remove mine as it was not necessary to do so. Likewise with the driveshafts, I simply removed the two bolts at the bottom of each strut that attaches it to the stub axle and it allowed enough clearance to get the driveshafts away from the box. There are six hex bolts on the nearside and the offside driveshaft needs it centre bearing knocked out having removed the three bolts holding it in place.
Dropping the box meant rotating the diff unit to the vertical as it comes out i.e. the window in the bellhousing which is normally at 12 o'clock end up at 9 o'clock. Putting it back was the same although I removed the long stud from the bellhousing to stop it prodding the clutch on the way in.
The other couple of observations that I hope are helpful is the inner starter motor bolt which is awkward. What I did is fitted the bolt to the starter with just the end of it poking through its hole. I then cable tied it around the body of the starter so that it is more or less in position. The stamped on washer below the bolt head allows enough room for a socket to go over it. I fitted the two easier bolts and then feeling my way with the socket got it on the end of the cable tied bolt, cut the cable tie off and away I went. Much easier than faffing about trying to get the bolt in the hole without.
Putting the centre mounting back in was another challenge. With just the end mountings the engine/gearbox has a tendency to move towards the front of the car making it difficult to get the mounting back in its hole on the subframe. I used a couple of webbing cargo ratchets round the gearbox and sump to tug it back to allow it to be refitted.
The last bit is a bit off piste, I had a very noisy thrust bearing on my car [115 JLX 1.9JTD] coupled with a chuntering noise which I knew was the dual mass flywheel. I replaced my DM flywheel with a solid one from an Alfa I think, new clutch and a deeper thrust bearing to counter the thinner flywheel - and of course shorter flywheel bolts. My old flywheel was shot. You could rotate the clutch on its bit of the flywheel 20mm without the ring gear part moving.
The result is a much better feel to the clutch and a complete absence of the noises and juddering that was was present prior to the work.
I hope all of this is helpful to anyone reading the various posts [which were very helpful] on clutch changes. Not a bad job just a big one.
Regards
Stephen
I have read all the threads on changing a Multipla clutch and I thought it might be interesting to others planning to do this job a few points that I noticed having just completed mine. With regard to the remove or not to remove front subframe debate, I did not remove mine as it was not necessary to do so. Likewise with the driveshafts, I simply removed the two bolts at the bottom of each strut that attaches it to the stub axle and it allowed enough clearance to get the driveshafts away from the box. There are six hex bolts on the nearside and the offside driveshaft needs it centre bearing knocked out having removed the three bolts holding it in place.
Dropping the box meant rotating the diff unit to the vertical as it comes out i.e. the window in the bellhousing which is normally at 12 o'clock end up at 9 o'clock. Putting it back was the same although I removed the long stud from the bellhousing to stop it prodding the clutch on the way in.
The other couple of observations that I hope are helpful is the inner starter motor bolt which is awkward. What I did is fitted the bolt to the starter with just the end of it poking through its hole. I then cable tied it around the body of the starter so that it is more or less in position. The stamped on washer below the bolt head allows enough room for a socket to go over it. I fitted the two easier bolts and then feeling my way with the socket got it on the end of the cable tied bolt, cut the cable tie off and away I went. Much easier than faffing about trying to get the bolt in the hole without.
Putting the centre mounting back in was another challenge. With just the end mountings the engine/gearbox has a tendency to move towards the front of the car making it difficult to get the mounting back in its hole on the subframe. I used a couple of webbing cargo ratchets round the gearbox and sump to tug it back to allow it to be refitted.
The last bit is a bit off piste, I had a very noisy thrust bearing on my car [115 JLX 1.9JTD] coupled with a chuntering noise which I knew was the dual mass flywheel. I replaced my DM flywheel with a solid one from an Alfa I think, new clutch and a deeper thrust bearing to counter the thinner flywheel - and of course shorter flywheel bolts. My old flywheel was shot. You could rotate the clutch on its bit of the flywheel 20mm without the ring gear part moving.
The result is a much better feel to the clutch and a complete absence of the noises and juddering that was was present prior to the work.
I hope all of this is helpful to anyone reading the various posts [which were very helpful] on clutch changes. Not a bad job just a big one.
Regards
Stephen